R134A a/c..can we recharge ourselves?

[rangerj]

JH,

The fittings for A/C are different. An R-12 fitting is a threaded schrader valve. The R134a fitting is a "quick connect" fitting, that is, no threads.

For an R-134a conversion, the R-134a fittings are threaded on to the R-12 schrader valves. The low pressure and high pressure fittings are two different sizes, just as they are for R-12.

Are you trying to connect a high pressure coupler to a low pressure fitting? rangerj

 

[SHOfun 93]

Well the guy at autozone looked pretty lost...the one I was trying to hook to was indeed a "quick connect" type of fitting, but the filler kit wouldn't fit on it, and there wasn't any "tips" in the kit to substitute. I guess I will just return the kit and get another one. Or shop around. The place where I tried to fill it was up by the compressor where the battery was. It has a red cap on it, and isn't threaded if that helps... shrug

 

[ATXSHO]

I'm lost. I have my kit in my hands ready to put in and don't know which one to fill it up in. shrug Jeremy's using the one by the battery and ranger is saying to use the one by the firewall (ecc tester) on the passenger side. Which one is it? I don't want to stick my hose and everything on and have the can blow up on me. oh_my I need some advice asap if possible and maybe this is why Jeremy is having trouble by using the wrong valve. shrug

Edit: I also have the upgraded system that includes everthing, lines and all w/new compressor and all that good stuff that ran close to $1500. eek!

<small>[ May 29, 2003, 03:42 PM: Message edited by: ATXSHO ]</small>

 

[LaTechSHO]

The RED cap is the high side fitting and NOT where you charge the system from

you are looking for a BLUE cap..... that is the low side and where you charge it....

look here for some pictures of different fittings, the one you are looking for is the first one, low side (notice the blue colored cap)


Louis

<small>[ May 29, 2003, 04:46 PM: Message edited by: LaTechSHO ]</small>

 

[SHOfun 93]

Well there was the first problem solved. I was trying to add to the high pressure valve. doh But I still think that my a/c compressor clutch is burned out. If that is all that is wrong, could it have gone out, and not harmed the compressor itself? I haven't turned on the a/c since it went warm, and what am I looking at to get a new clutch put on? Could I do it myself? shrug

 

[rangerj]

Gentlemen,

PLEASE, DO NOT TRY TO ADD A REFRIGERANT CHARGE AT THE HIGH PRESSURE SIDE.

The low presure connection is back near the firewall on the passenger side. If it was a R-134a conversion it should have a light blue cap over the connection.

As for the compressor clutch and coil, it can be tested by jumping the low pressure connection. If this activates the clutch coil, then the low pressure switch is bad, or the system pressure is to low to activate the switch.

The coil can be activated with battery voltage. If it fails to turn into a powerful magnet then the coil is bad. Check the gap between the clutch surfaces. It should be between .025 and .045, with .035 being about right.

If the coil is bad, the clutch coil, pulley, and clutch face come as an assembly. It is easy to change with a pair of snap-ring pliers. If your coil fails the "magnet test, and you want to change it yourself, let us know and we'll walk you through it. rangerj

 

[ATXSHO]

What is it that you jump for the switch thing? I recharged mine to about 40psi and it still fails to activate. I heard a pause like the compressor tried to kick on and got a quick puff of coolness, then back to warm air. shrug The compressor has less then 5-10k miles on it. I would like to try to jump whatever it is to see, but could you explain what it is, rangerj? Or possible show pictures of it too? Thanks for the help. thumb

<small>[ May 29, 2003, 11:36 PM: Message edited by: ATXSHO ]</small>

 

[rangerj]

In the low pressure line there is a two wire connector on top of the low pressure cut out switch. (look on top of the accumulator/dryer)

Remove the connector. Inside the connector are the two connections that you jump with a jumper wire.

If the clutch coil is good it will be activated (KOER) and pull the clutch face into the clutch pulley (if the gap is approximately between .025 and .045).

If this works, then either the pressure is to low to "flip" the low pressure switch, or the switch is bad. The switch needs approximately 18 to 25 psi to work.

If this does not activate the coil, it can be tested by disconnecting the coil electrical connection and jumper it with battery voltage. It should become a powerful magnet. If it does not, the coil is defective. If it does, then you have a wire or connection problem.

Note: When doing this connect jumper wires to the coil connections, then to the positive bettery post, and then to the negative battery post. It is easier to get at the coil with the battery, battery tray, etc, removed. rangrj