Quick front wheel bearing question.

[SHOspazz92]

We are going to need to replace the front wheel bearing in Ashley's 92 here pretty soon. From what I have read the Timken unit's have been known to go bad. I'm going to go ahead and get a Unit from Autozone (Valuecraft).

Here is what I am ordering:

Wheel Bearing/Hub assembly


Or Possibly the DynaPack unit:

Option number 2

Is this the ONLY thing I'm going to need to get the Job done? No other Misc. parts are needed to complete this Job?

Thanks!

-Sam

 

[Shoaz]

Nope, those'll do it. You may not even need the hub, depending on the condition of the existing one. Also, beware that often the studs on the replacement hubs are shorter than the stock studs and may not be long enough for some aftermarket wheels.

I assume you have a press to use to remove/install the hub and bearing? You'll also need a tool to remove and reinstall the retaining ring for the bearing.

It's not a hard job once you've done one, it's just tedious.

 

[jmpSHO]

I would stay away from valucraft and Timken both are bad and won't last long.

 

[SHOspazz92]

Nope, those'll do it. You may not even need the hub, depending on the condition of the existing one. Also, beware that often the studs on the replacement hubs are shorter than the stock studs and may not be long enough for some aftermarket wheels.


I assume you have a press to use to remove/install the hub and bearing? You'll also need a tool to remove and reinstall the retaining ring for the bearing.

It's not a hard job once you've done one, it's just tedious.

I assumed that buying a bearing that was already in the Hub meant that nothing would have to be pressed in and that it would be a simple R&R Job. Obviously I don't understand how the process works. Could someone explain that to me?

-Sam

 

[NEp8ntballer]

the hub is removed with a puller, the entire knuckle is removed, the old snap ring is removed from the rear, the old bearing is pressed out, the mating surface on the knuckle is cleaned out to remove any grease and dirt, the new bearing is pressed in the back, new snap ring is installed, new hub is pressed in the front, knuckle is installed back on the car.

obviously you need to remove the caliper, rotor and bracket.

what is faster, easier and cheaper unless you have access to a shop press(base auto hobby shop?) is to get a low mile knuckle from a junkyard. although if it has wilwoods it may have modified knuckles which would make replacing the bad bearing required...

 

[pjtoledo]

improper torqueing of the CV/axle nut is the #1 reason for front wheel bearing failures after they have been replaced.

 

[NEp8ntballer]

improper torqueing of the CV/axle nut is the #1 reason for front wheel bearing failures after they have been replaced.

from what I've heard is that using the recommended torque spec is insufficient and the axle nut will loosen up over time

 

[pjtoledo]

I usually do put them on a bit tighter. Not sure of the exact spec, but it's most of my 230 Lbs standing on the end of a 3/4 drive bar. If not using a new nut, give the lip on the old one a good bash with a hammer. They need to have lots of friction to keep from backing off.

like they say, your method may vary.

 

[Storm-Chaser]

Well, I would disagree. In my "opinion", the most common reason for front wheel bearing failures is the incorrect "pressing-in" of the new wheel bearings, which damages the new wheel bearing as it is being pressed-in.

Just ask Eric VerValin what happens and how quickly it happens, when the bearings are not properly pressed back onto the front spindles . . . .

improper torqueing of the CV/axle nut is the #1 reason for front wheel bearing failures after they have been replaced.

 

[NEp8ntballer]

Well, I would disagree. In my "opinion", the most common reason for front wheel bearing failures is the incorrect "pressing-in" of the new wheel bearings, which damages the new wheel bearing as it is being pressed-in.

Just ask Eric VerValin what happens and how quickly it happens, when the bearings are not properly pressed back onto the front spindles . . . .

somebody tried to press the hub into the bearing instead of the bearing onto the hub?

 

[jmpSHO]

I usually remove the knuckle have a place install the bearing for me.

 

[Storm-Chaser]

After having "disassembled" numerous Taurus/Sable/Continental front spindles, I have yet to find a single one where the axle nut has even slightly "loosened-up". As a matter of fact, I did two front sets today, and the axle nuts on both were a b*tch to get off (I used a 25" breaker bar as a matter of fact).

I believe the front wheel bearing torque spec is 190 ft-lbs of torque. Many torque wrenches simply don't even go that high . . . .

from what I've heard is that using the recommended torque spec is insufficient and the axle nut will loosen up over time

 

[Storm-Chaser]

I think you meant, " somebody tried to press the hub onto the bearing instead of the bearing into the hub . . . ."

somebody tried to press the hub into the bearing, instead of the bearing onto the hub?

 

[jmpSHO]

After having "disassembled" numerous Taurus/Sable/Continental front spindles, I have yet to find a single one where the axle nut has even slightly "loosened-up". As a matter of fact, I did two front sets today, and the axle nuts on both were a b*tch to get off (I used a 25" breaker bar as a matter of fact).

I believe the front wheel bearing torque spec is 190 ft-lbs of torque. Many torque wrenches simply don't even go that high . . . .

I always use an impact gun and I never had one come loose.

 

[NEp8ntballer]

I think you meant, " somebody tried to press the hub onto the bearing instead of the bearing into the hub . . . ."

not rly. the hub contacts the inside surface of the bearing. although I guess pressing the bearing into the hub makes sense as well

 

[Shoaz]

I assumed that buying a bearing that was already in the Hub meant that nothing would have to be pressed in and that it would be a simple R&R Job. Obviously I don't understand how the process works. Could someone explain that to me?

-Sam

As has been sort of mentioned here and there in previous responses, yes, you need a press to do this job, whether or not you have a new hub.

After removing the knuckle with the hub and bearing assembly, press the hub out of the bearing from the back. Remove the bearing retaining ring, press the bearing out from the front. Press the new bearing in from the back, install retaining ring, then press the new bearing (with the knuckle around it) onto the hub.

Pressing the bearing onto the hub instead of the hub into the bearing prevents the inside half of the inner race from getting dislodged from the bearing.

Then just replace the knuckle on the car and you're good to go.

And I'll second that I've never seen a hub/axle nut come loose, and I frequently reuse them.

 

[Bob Gervais]

As has been sort of mentioned here and there in previous responses, yes, you need a press to do this job, whether or not you have a new hub.

After removing the knuckle with the hub and bearing assembly, press the hub out of the bearing from the back. Remove the bearing retaining ring, press the bearing out from the front. Press the new bearing in from the back, install retaining ring, then press the new bearing (with the knuckle around it) onto the hub.

Pressing the bearing onto the hub instead of the hub into the bearing prevents the inside half of the inner race from getting dislodged from the bearing.

Then just replace the knuckle on the car and you're good to go.

And I'll second that I've never seen a hub/axle nut come loose, and I frequently reuse them.

^ Everything that guy said. +1



While I've seen cases of axle nuts BEING loose, I've never seen a case of one COMING loose.

As Keith said, most common reason for new wheel bearing failure is improper installation of the bearing/hub assy.

Basically Sam, get the bearing (and hub if you so desire), take it to a qualified automotive machine shop, and have them install the bearing for you. As mentioned above, hubs aren't always required. If it's just starting to make noise, your hub should be fine, and replacement of the bearing is all you'll need.

In regards to brand, I installed the Valucraft bearings in my 92 about a month or so ago, right after the convention. No problems yet, I've got about 2500 miles on them.

 

[Eric VerValin]

I think you meant, " somebody tried to press the hub onto the bearing instead of the bearing into the hub . . . ."

Uhhh... negative Ghost Rider... lol I did it like it was supposed to be done... just had a few bad ones outta the box. Same method, same press each time... The first one that failed was one I had a shop do... second and third I did... Never had a problem with the other side.. I dunno, almost makes me think the knuckle is worn on the one side.



There is your difference in stud length... no real extra threads, but its easier to get the nut started..

:wave:

One of these are about to fail.. can you tell which one ? lol

 

[SHOspazz92]

This is only Ashley's 92.

So to make this Job as easy as possible, I should Just get a new bearing, Take the whole Knuckle off, Take it somewhere with the new bearing to make Bearing sexy time, Reinstall Knuckle and then Cry myself to slee....I mean ...drive off in to the sunset.... ?

Should I also purchase a new snap ring?

I'm just looking to do this as easily as possible and hopefully for under 100 bucks (The car needs RCA Bushings as well )

FWIW, I don't have a press of any kind and I have no Garage with a Gravel driveway

-Sam

 

[hawkeye18]

You mean to tell me that Pope AFB doesn't have a hobby shop? All of the ones I've been to not only have a 20 ton press, but don't really care whose car you have as long as you show them your CAC and a pretty smile...