Question about Ford Rebuilt Auto Tranny

[roswell998]

Just picked up my rebuilt tranny from Ford Dealer in Marietta GA today and was expecting it to be spotlessly clean. However, while not filthy by any means it has quite a few places where there is grease/grime which was spray painted over with black paint.

........Is this how most of them are delivered?........

The reman date shown on the label is May of this year.

 

[rangerj]

I installed a Ford Remanufactured trans in June. It was spotless and neatly painted silver. It came with complete instalation instructions, including torque specs. It also has a 36 month/36,000 mile warranty.

If yours has the warranty make sure you follow the installation instructions to the letter and document every step. If it is an automatic be sure to clean the cooler and the lines thourghly. An in-line filter would be a good investment.

 

[SHOZ123]

If it's dirty somethings not right.

 

[rangerj]

Did you buy a "Ford" factory remanufactured transmission, or an aftermarket remanufactured transmission through the dealership? There could be a huge difference in quality.

 

[roswell998]

Did you buy a "Ford" factory remanufactured transmission, or an aftermarket remanufactured transmission through the dealership? There could be a huge difference in quality.

First, I don't mean to imply that the tranny is filthy. Just that some areas still have a little greasy grim. The unit was spray painted with black paint. I was expecting it be spotless like a brand new one.

IN ANSWER TO YOUR QUESTION

The tranny was represented as a "Ford Motorcraft remanufactured unit" and shipped in a Ford molded shipping container with a packet inside which contains all kinds of information printed on color pages with "Ford Genuine Parts", "Ford Motorcraft" including the core return guidelines for Motorcraft Remanufactured Transmissions and other "Ford" specific info. As far as I can tell the unit has all the labeling, warranty information (3yr/36K miles), and documentation of a genuine Ford remanufactured unit. I know all this is more information that you asked, but whether this is consistent with what other people have seen I'd appreciate a reply. The following additional info was on the shipping container and the tranny label itself:

The Ford molded shipping container has a Ford label with "Motorcraft Remanufactured Parts" at the top and all the other Dearborn address info on the bottom. The info on the label is:

FD3Z-7V000-ARM
Date Mfg. 05/25/05
Ser #. R5179603

On the transmission is a plastic tag with bar codes and the following info:

0132-5
R5179603
F3DZ7V000ARM

 

[rangerj]

You got the real deal.
That sounds exactly like the unit I bought a few months ago. When they rebuild them they are updated with the most recent engineering of parts, including gears, seals, etc. It sounds like whoever did the cleaning of the case did not do such a hot job. Mine was spotless and has been working perfectly since it was installed. Again, follow the instructions provided with the trans and document the installation and you should not have any issues if a warranty claim has to be made.

 

[roswell998]

You got the real deal.
That sounds exactly like the unit I bought a few months ago. When they rebuild them they are updated with the most recent engineering of parts, including gears, seals, etc. It sounds like whoever did the cleaning of the case did not do such a hot job. Mine was spotless and has been working perfectly since it was installed. Again, follow the instructions provided with the trans and document the installation and you should not have any issues if a warranty claim has to be made.

When I ordered the dealer said that there was a difference between the part # for a 93 and that for a 94 or 95. Mine is a 93 and that is the unit he ordered.

1. Is there a difference in the units physically or do most order the 94/95 in order to get some updates that won't be in a reman 93? Such as the splined shaft to the torque converter. I understand that the 93 was smaller and thus weaker than the later years.

2. Could you tell me some of the specific updates my unit should have?

Thanks

 

[The Dude]

What did you all pay for the reman ford? I was quoted $1900 seems high.

 

[roswell998]

What did you all pay for the reman ford? I was quoted $1900 seems high.

List price was shown as $1812.47 (so $1900 seems to have a little extra handling charge added) and I paid about $1500 from Marietta, GA Ford. They are shown on the SHOtimes website as a place SHO parts can be purchased at a discount and their contact info is also on the website.

HOWEVER, since I live in the Atlanta area near Marietta I was able to go over in a friends pickup truck to get the unit.

A 200 pound plus shipping weight tranny would cost a considerable amount in shipping charges so just purchasing at a local dealer would probably be a wash in bottom line costs.

 

[SHOZ123]

To me if I am going to get a rebuilt ATX I would expect to pay over $3000 installed. No sense putting in any thing that is not an improvement over stock. An ATX SHO with the proper transmission upgrades and proper tuning is a great thing to drive.

 

[Mr Anonymous]

FWIW, Ford uses regional contract rebuilders. Because of that, the overall quality of a rebuild will vary depending on where a given rebuild comes from.

I'm surprised that there would have been any grease left on the case after a proper jet washing and inspection that the case should have gone through.

I have noticed with the Ford remans we've gotten recently that they've become lazy with the painting, just caplugging the important parts and spraying the whole thing after it's assembled. Before, they would paint the case, pans, covers, etc. separately before assembly, and they looked as close to brand new as you could get.

Whatever you do, make sure when you return your core that they record your warranty by your VIN number in OASIS while you're standing there. That's the most important part for getting any future warranty service, especially away from home.

 

[roswell998]

I looked farther into the subject of 93 vs 94/95 trannys and found out:


1. If the part # starts with F3 then it came from a 93. That also holds for the number etched onto the torque converter.

2. If the part # starts with F4 then it came from a 94 or 95. If you get a "F3" then it won't have all of the 94/95 upgrades such as the larger splined shaft that goes into the torque converter.

The good news for me is that I still haven't even gotten the old one out so the dealer will have a F4 delivered today and will swap with me. There is no difference in price between the two. I'll keep you guys posted on the outcome and will certainly have more questions as the job progresses.

Again, thanks for all the replys.

 

[roswell998]

Yup!...........another question

The Helms manual states that a Rotunda tool is needed to remove the tranny cooler lines.

What do most people use?

 

[Mr Anonymous]

Yup!...........another question

The Helms manual states that a Rotunda tool is needed to remove the tranny cooler lines.

What do most people use?

Go to a "real" auto parts store that carries OTC tools, the tranny cooler line tool is like $8.

 

[rlw001]

I used a regular wrench with no problem.

 

[SHOtimer]

I had no problem taking them out with my hands, and an adjustable cresent wrench. You just squeeze the two tabs and it pops out. I removed the stock hard lines and put in high flow lines, so I also took out the adapters and screwed different ones into the tranny housing..

Doug

 

[roswell998]

Couple more questions plus an update on the project

FYI.....this was one of the last 93's off the production line before the 94's went into production and the tranny was actually a 94 model with a sticker on the bottom of the pan stating it was a F4DZ...........

1. Did the early 93's have the same tranny cooler as mine which is in front of the A/C condenser coil across the entire bottom and about 6" in height? Some additional suggestions regarding tranny cooler configuration and tradeoffs will be appreciated. Keep in mind this car is rarely driven thru the gears hard and I got 110K miles on the original tranny.

2. When reassembling, should locktite be used on the torque converter to flywheel nuts? Any other nuts/bolts? If so, what color?

3. The Ford 3yr/36K mile warranty requires that the tranny cooler and lines be back flushed. Of course, they recommend a Rotunda flushing machine. What is recommended as a flushing technique in a residential garage?

4. The original subframe bolts and bushings look great and the rubber is not hard. Car has always been in the Atlanta area and kept in a gargage. Is it still recommended that the recall bolt kit for the rear subframe attach points be incorporated? I see no way to incorporate this kit unless the 1 1/2" holes are cut in the floorboard per the instructions.

As an update to the project...........Not rushing this job. Built engine hangers per Scott's design slightly modified for 3.2 and also got 3 ton jack and tranny jack adapter from Northern. Put the new tranny on the jack as a test and to locate the precise center of gravity. I'm quite impressed with this setup for the money. Jack was $60 and tranny adapter was $40. Needed a larger floor jack anyway. It doesn't lower as close to the floor as a commercial tranny jack but the clearance will be sufficient with the jackstands at 21" on the front jack points. Also purchased new 6 ton jackstands for $30. If I'm going to get under this thing, then over design is a good thing in my opinion. I'll post any updates just in case anyone is interested as this task moves along. The plan is to be back on the road in about a week.

 

[RAYJAY]

if you could how about some pictures on how you do the auto trans I'm doing one this winter and would luv to see how every one else is doing there"s


jeff

 

[SHOtimer]

1. I think all auto SHO's had that cooler...

2. No, not loctite. But, those bolts are one time use. A new bag of Ford bolts is $5.

3. Dont' know....I would just clean the old fluid out of them.

4. Even if you can't see them physically worn, I would still replace the bushings. You will notice a huge difference. I would buy the recall kits so that you will have 4 new bolts, the bolts can be reused, but it is nice to have new bolts in there.

Doug

 

[roswell998]

Rod bearings now or later?

I'm anxious to get this SHO on the road but wanted to know if the pan is almost as easy to remove after the subframe is back on. I'm going to replace rod bearings sometime soon anyway, but if the job is much, much easier now that the subframe is off them I'd consider doing it now. My preference would be to wait and do that in a couple of months when I have more time.