Putting the SHO on the road.

[hock]

Alright my 99 SHO has been sitting for around 2 years with a blown trans and I figure I better not let it sit anymore. OK, the wife said I better fix it cause she wants to start driving it again and she's tired of me dumping money into my Super Coupe while her car sits. Anyways, there are several things I want to do while I'm swapping the trans and need some input on what works with these cars.

1) Trans. Just going to do a reman, unless someone in the community does a better one at a comparable price. I have already installed two extra trans coolers and I will be upgrading from the steel lines to rubber.

2) Rod bearings. Been beat, sittin in the same oil for 2 years, time to change.

3) Sparkplugs. The engine and trans is coming out together so I'm doing the sparkplugs. Just not sure of which ones are the best for these cars. Also, which coil is the one that gives us the most trouble? I want to replace it as well so I don't have to deal with it down the road. AND, can I do the tune up without removing the intake plenum with the engine out?

4) Flush brake system.

5) Find the electrical gremlin that has been hiding in the car since I bought it. Its thinks its funny to screw with my speedo and reset the car while driving.

6) Not sure. Is there anything else besides belts, filters, tires, ect. that I need to address?

 

[SHOZ123]

1. be sure to get a rebuilt TC too.
2. cheap and easy, same ones as the Duratec. Should use new rod bolts as they are TTY but I didn't....
3. I liked to use the Autolite XP 103s. Always can get a rebate on them too. http://www.autolite.com/rebate/?productID=23 It is easy to change them with the engine out of the car. The rear coils are usually changed so you don't have to go through the hassle of taking the surge tank off. But with enough practice this is only about a 15 minute job.....
4. For sure, I like the Valvoline Synthetic as it is available almost anywhere and relatively cheap while giving good performance. You will need more than a quart.
5. Try cleaning the ABS connector.
6. Make sure the green connectors go on the pre cat O2s and the blue connectors go on the post cat O2s.

 

[Izzmo]

1. be sure to get a rebuilt TC too.
2. cheap and easy, same ones as the Duratec. Should use new rod bolts as they are TTY but I didn't....
3. I liked to use the Autolite XP 103s. Always can get a rebate on them too. http://www.autolite.com/rebate/?productID=23 It is easy to change them with the engine out of the car. The rear coils are usually changed so you don't have to go through the hassle of taking the surge tank off. But with enough practice this is only about a 15 minute job.....
4. For sure, I like the Valvoline Synthetic as it is available almost anywhere and relatively cheap while giving good performance. You will need more than a quart.
5. Try cleaning the ABS connector.
6. Make sure the green connectors go on the pre cat O2s and the blue connectors go on the post cat O2s.

Hey paul, regarding #5.. cleaning the ABS connector. Are you talking about the ABS connector at the spindle, or at the ABS module itself?

 

[SHOZ123]

At the ABS module under the battery.

 

[hock]

1. be sure to get a rebuilt TC too.

I believe the trans should come with it. I work at Advance Auto so I'll have the parts pro ask when I have him order it.

2. cheap and easy, same ones as the Duratec. Should use new rod bolts as they are TTY but I didn't....

Ok on that note, are the rear main seals the same? I know our engines where based dimensionally off of that block but I'm not sure if everything is the same or not.

Otherwise, thanks for the info. Can't wait to be driving that again to take the family places instead of my SC. Don't get me wrong, I love my Thunderbird and prefer it over my SHO and Talon TSI, but I can't drive it the way I want with the family in the car. You know, the "Drive it like you stole it" way!

 

[SHOZ123]

I don't believe they are the same rear seal. I do think it is available at NAPA or Rock Auto.

 

[venom]

I don't believe they are the same rear seal. I do think it is available at NAPA or Rock Auto.

Timken Part 710219 or a direct cross.

The 2.5 and 3.0 seals are indeed not a substitute their OD is fine, there isn't much tension on the ID, and they are thinner. The appropriate rear main for the 3.4 requires some pretty good force to drive in place.