Project 275

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92sho16

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Holy cow. That is crazy lol. Those things must rub over every bump lol.

:thumb:

I'm in the process of making some flares otherwise yes it would scrape but its not as bad as i thought. The front wheels spin lock to lock without touching and the rear i feel like i could almost get away without flaring but i need to fix the typical taurus rear fender rot that it has. Of coarse some coilovers with really high spring rate could cure the problem just as the flares would.
 

Toolman

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You should bring it! I would love to see the engine in it's new home, and I would be happy to help tune it while we are there.

BTW, I can not find those 17x9's on the site. How much were they? VERY interested.
 

BlackonBlack89

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You should bring it! I would love to see the engine in it's new home, and I would be happy to help tune it while we are there.

BTW, I can not find those 17x9's on the site. How much were they? VERY interested.

If you talk to josh u can order almost any TD wheel. Not just the 2 models he offers. And in different sizes IIRC. I can't remember where but I know I did. the other TD wheels are kinda of funky anyways. I remeber looking at them, when I found this out.

Edit Found it!!!

They are heavier and wider-spoked than the PR2 and PR1.2, so we'd never feature them, but we can sell you any TD wheel you want (within reason ..). Pricing is likely the same as the other 17x7 we offer.

Using 17x7 to compare (available in all three types):

PR1.2 7.0 x 17 from 7.9kgs (17.3lbs)
PR2 7.0 x 17 from 7.5kg (16.5lbs)
PR3 7.0 x 17 from 8.2kgs (18.0lbs)
 
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Rubix

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Wow those look absolutely awesome, thanks for sharing :thumb: Time to update that signature
 

92sho16

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Minor update, not from today actually. I didn't get much further today, i realized that my templates had to have a triangular shape otherwise i would need to shrink the metal. So i started with some wood guides after hours of shaping today and it ended up being to much of a flare so I'm going to start over tomorrow. I should post so more pics then.
main.php


Here is how much of the fender i cut out.
main.php
 

Sho Amo

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its like the opposite of showya's car.

first turbo, then widebody. lol.
 

92sho16

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Wood template.
main.php


main.php

Sheet metal tacked in place, still need to shape the opening a bit and add a peice to the rear edge but that next time i get a chance to do some work on it.
 

92sho16

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Did you need to remove any material from anywhere other than the metal panel (ie the bumper or door molding)?

I think the door molding is going to be modified, ill find out when i test drive it, it was raining today and i didn't want the car to get wet with the unfinished metal hopefully i can take it for a spin tomorrow and see.
 

drivinhard

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And that's a Hoosier R comp 275, which is a wide sucker. I am playing the NASA points dance right now, running -20mm under for my class (TTA, 295 max size tire) because of the 4 pts I get back. Hoosier specs the 275 at a 10.3" tread width, the 295 is only 1/2" wider @ 10.8" (12mm, and not 20mm like it "should" be). The 275 and 295 both will fit on a max rim width of 11". I have a 275/17 set on my 9.5's and a 275/18 set on my 10.5's.

BTW that "275" (10.3" tread) is wider than the 295/35/18 Goodyear F1 SC that comes on the rear of the car stock (GY spec is 10.1" across the tread on those).

A6 or R6? I have been recently running the A6 for TT and it is just absolutely unreal in the grip dept, especially with the stickers on it. I ran my Nitto R compound set at Carolina in May, put on sticker A6's the next day for TT, and promptly went 3-4 secs/lap faster. They fall off after the first couple of heat cycles, which means they are still as fast as everything else when they are half wore out.

Lot of tire for the SHO. :naughty:
 
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92sho16

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A6 or R6?

Lot of tire for the SHO. :naughty:

These are the R6, I read the A6 were more for autocross. I only have done events at the glen so i figured a tire tailored more for road coarse suits me better. Definitely a lot of tire for the car but the flares will hopefully solve that.
 

Shoaz

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Are you putting 275s on the front and back? FWIW, for a FWD car putting too big of a tire on the rear may work against you. Many of the very fast FWD cars put wide tires on the front but leave the rears relatively narrow. In general there are two reasons for this: First, with less weight on the rear and no need for motive traction there's really no need for a bigger tire in the rear. Second, too much rubber with not enough load may be more difficult to get up to temperature.

I run 245s front and back, and often have trouble getting adequate heat in the rear tires. This may have contributed to my going off track at Firebird during a Time Attack event (where there's not much opportunity to get the tires up to temp).

One of our local Corvette-killing Honda Civics runs 275s in the front and 225-245 in the back.
 

K-Dawg

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Are you putting 275s on the front and back? FWIW, for a FWD car putting too big of a tire on the rear may work against you. Many of the very fast FWD cars put wide tires on the front but leave the rears relatively narrow. In general there are two reasons for this: First, with less weight on the rear and no need for motive traction there's really no need for a bigger tire in the rear. Second, too much rubber with not enough load may be more difficult to get up to temperature.

I run 245s front and back, and often have trouble getting adequate heat in the rear tires. This may have contributed to my going off track at Firebird during a Time Attack event (where there's not much opportunity to get the tires up to temp).

One of our local Corvette-killing Honda Civics runs 275s in the front and 225-245 in the back.

You tell him this after he cuts the car up... :rofl:
 

zak

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I run 245s front and back, and often have trouble getting adequate heat in the rear tires. This may have contributed to my going off track at Firebird during a Time Attack event (where there's not much opportunity to get the tires up to temp).

I run 245-16 on 16x8 inch rims all around as well, and can say that getting heat into the rear tires can be an issue, although the problem is not as bad now with the Gen3 subframe swap. I set second fastest FTD at a Mustang event once with very soft (easy to heat) 225 "rain" BFG R1s on the back and new and sticky 245 Toyos on 16 x 7.5 inch on the front.

How much room does Rob have between his tire and the strut?
 

92sho16

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Are you putting 275s on the front and back? FWIW, for a FWD car putting too big of a tire on the rear may work against you. Many of the very fast FWD cars put wide tires on the front but leave the rears relatively narrow. In general there are two reasons for this: First, with less weight on the rear and no need for motive traction there's really no need for a bigger tire in the rear. Second, too much rubber with not enough load may be more difficult to get up to temperature.

I run 245s front and back, and often have trouble getting adequate heat in the rear tires. This may have contributed to my going off track at Firebird during a Time Attack event (where there's not much opportunity to get the tires up to temp).

One of our local Corvette-killing Honda Civics runs 275s in the front and 225-245 in the back.

How light is your SHO? Mine is still fairly heavy and i already cut up the fenders and have the tires. I will see how it is at my next track event if i run into problems i change it over the winter.
 

Toolman

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Hey, if those rears are too large and hard to heat up, give me a shout. I would buy them from you in an instant. I will likely only have the 9's up front, and keep 8's out back. I can get another set of of the 8's and send you two for the rear.
 

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