Power Steering Pump Replacement Procedure
Works for my Gen 2 MTX; should work for other models too!
1. Set front of car up on 6 ton jackstands under frame rails, same as in clutch installation procedure.
2. Remove both front tires. Note: Left tire can stay on if not changing pressure hose with pump.
3. Remove battery, PS reservoir & bracket, roll dampener, pump pulley nut, accessory belts, upper timing cover, and pump pulley.
4. Remove cam position sensor and check for oil in bottom of drive housing. (Yes, check even if you are convinced your leak is PS. A leaking seal here is easy to fix now with everything opened up).
5. Position container to catch spillage and remove suction hose from pump.
6. Put 18 mm or 11/16 (tight fit) crows foot on pressure line fitting. Run long socket extension(s) toward front of engine until in the clear where a breaker bar can be used. Break fitting loose and remove. *** Although I did not need to do this, my alternative plan was to use a mini tubing cutter to cut the steel line and remove the fitting later.
7. Remove front pump mounting bolts (3) with 12mm socket.
8. Under car, place flex socket or regular 12mm socket with wobble extension on pump rear mounting bolt. Add extensions to reach all the way across the back of the engine above the exhaust manifold nearly to the transmission where there is clear space to get a breaker bar on it, or an air ratchet. Remove the rear bolt. Note it is longer than the front bolts.
The Y pipe is of the car in this picture, but it does not have to be.
Really hard getting good pictures in this area, but I hope you get the idea.
9. Back up top, wiggle pump out of its mounting bracket and there is plenty of room to get it out from the top. The photos prove it!
Note: Skip step 10 and 11 if not replacing the pressure hose.
10. Use 18mm combo or line wrench to loosen lower pressure hose fitting on the rack by reaching in through the driver side wheel well. A stubby 18mm wrench makes the job go faster.
11. Swap pressure switch to new hose, tighten to 5-10 ft-lb. using 14 mm wrench. Let hose hang vertically for at least an hour before installing.
12. Reverse steps to install new pump and hose. Be very careful starting the steel threads of the pressure hose into the aluminum rack. Start the threads by hand. The rack is easily stripped. If the threaded part of the fitting on the PS hose is difficult to turn by hand, apply some penetrating oil and it will loosen up. Torque values are:
Pump bolts: 15-24 ft-lb.
Pressure hose fittings: 10-15 ft-lb (Pressure hose fittings can both be torqued with clever use of crows foot wrenches.)
Notes:
1. Be sure new pressure hose has the teflon O-rings on the fittings; they come with the hose.
2. Place plenty of rags under the PS reservoir to catch any spillage. Any fluid that runs down the inner fender will find its way into the frame, then run down and drip out near the right rear subframe bushing. That might fool you into thinking something is leaking.
Works for my Gen 2 MTX; should work for other models too!
1. Set front of car up on 6 ton jackstands under frame rails, same as in clutch installation procedure.
2. Remove both front tires. Note: Left tire can stay on if not changing pressure hose with pump.
3. Remove battery, PS reservoir & bracket, roll dampener, pump pulley nut, accessory belts, upper timing cover, and pump pulley.
4. Remove cam position sensor and check for oil in bottom of drive housing. (Yes, check even if you are convinced your leak is PS. A leaking seal here is easy to fix now with everything opened up).
5. Position container to catch spillage and remove suction hose from pump.
6. Put 18 mm or 11/16 (tight fit) crows foot on pressure line fitting. Run long socket extension(s) toward front of engine until in the clear where a breaker bar can be used. Break fitting loose and remove. *** Although I did not need to do this, my alternative plan was to use a mini tubing cutter to cut the steel line and remove the fitting later.
7. Remove front pump mounting bolts (3) with 12mm socket.
8. Under car, place flex socket or regular 12mm socket with wobble extension on pump rear mounting bolt. Add extensions to reach all the way across the back of the engine above the exhaust manifold nearly to the transmission where there is clear space to get a breaker bar on it, or an air ratchet. Remove the rear bolt. Note it is longer than the front bolts.
The Y pipe is of the car in this picture, but it does not have to be.
Really hard getting good pictures in this area, but I hope you get the idea.
9. Back up top, wiggle pump out of its mounting bracket and there is plenty of room to get it out from the top. The photos prove it!
Note: Skip step 10 and 11 if not replacing the pressure hose.
10. Use 18mm combo or line wrench to loosen lower pressure hose fitting on the rack by reaching in through the driver side wheel well. A stubby 18mm wrench makes the job go faster.
11. Swap pressure switch to new hose, tighten to 5-10 ft-lb. using 14 mm wrench. Let hose hang vertically for at least an hour before installing.
12. Reverse steps to install new pump and hose. Be very careful starting the steel threads of the pressure hose into the aluminum rack. Start the threads by hand. The rack is easily stripped. If the threaded part of the fitting on the PS hose is difficult to turn by hand, apply some penetrating oil and it will loosen up. Torque values are:
Pump bolts: 15-24 ft-lb.
Pressure hose fittings: 10-15 ft-lb (Pressure hose fittings can both be torqued with clever use of crows foot wrenches.)
Notes:
1. Be sure new pressure hose has the teflon O-rings on the fittings; they come with the hose.
2. Place plenty of rags under the PS reservoir to catch any spillage. Any fluid that runs down the inner fender will find its way into the frame, then run down and drip out near the right rear subframe bushing. That might fool you into thinking something is leaking.
