Power steering delete

[SHOtime2511]

I considered this some years back,instead I just deceided to go G3 subframe and rack.
Originally I wanted a manual rack for simplicity and weight savings.
The only way to properly do this would be to use a manual steering rack from another with near the same nose weight,or have one custom built for your SHO.
Steering feel would be tight but if done correctly it would be bearable.
I was unable to find anything for a reasonable price.

 

[firebat45]

I'll just add that in addition to the gear ratio difference between the SHO and an old 50s or 60s car, the old cars also had way more turns lock to lock, and huge steering wheels. There's also the difference of which wheels are being driven. You see a lot more cars with RWD and manual steering than you see FWD, about the only FWD manual steering cars you see are very light and underpowered.

 

[Jonny Cash]

My friend I share a shop with makes a PS delete block for early e30/e36 bmw ZF racks.
Basically its channeled inside allowing fluid to pass through the banjo bolts.

Compared to just removing your ps belt, its a substantial difference in steering effort with the delete.
By measuring the distance between your hard line ports, its possible we could make one.

Like sam mentioned auto-x/really quick low speed transition is the only time it gets tough to steer. But at any speed over 5-10 mph the feedback, and steering response is alot better.

It's mostly about gear ratio and/or resistance

Alot to do with caster also. Playing with my control arm bushing placement in my 2002, the more agressive the caster was, the harder it was to steer. At 0deg it felt like it had PS..

 

[pitaSHO]

When I bought the 91 Fred had the alignment soooooo agresive it took me a long time to adjust to how touchy it was. That thing turned on a dime. Thanks for the reminder of that factor, too. Now I'm more interested in this option. If you have any more details or a web site I would be interested in taking a look at it. This would be for mostly road course anyway; if I was into auto-x I think I would keep the power steering because it IS more responsive.

 

[Jonny Cash]

I do not think it will be too hard for you to steer on a road course if you had everything dialed in. He does not have a website for the deletes, but here you can find some more info

http://ww.e30tech.com/forum/showthread.php?t=72123

In the pic you'll see a 21mm bolt right next to an 18mm bolt. That is where the original hard lines mount, depending on the distance between those two on a ZF SHO rack (Its been too long) its possible I could make it happen for you, maybe even for other SHO racers out there.

 

[Michelle]

Didn't have power steering on my red '90 for a bit just to "try it" a few years ago. Yeah, not fun. I drove a few blocks and tried to turn around. It took awhile and was not easy. Didn't get easier with momentum either. Just too much weight up there.

 

[Toolman]

I'm commuting right now without ps. 106 miles every day. You peeps need to work out more.

 

[Jonny Cash]

Tim if i could thank you twice i would.
It is simply preference. EVen in the more balanced cars people will complain about it being tough to steer. If you feel it would be too much for you, then its not for you period.
Once you learn to use the throttle to steer rather than the wheel, it will make the experience alot easier.

 

[pitaSHO]

I like the idea of simple: crank to water pump to tensioner pully to alternator. I know I have some other fab work or shimming to do, but this is where it starts.

 

[firebat45]

Mount the alty on a sliding mount like an SBC, and you don't need a tensioner either. That's what I did on the chump car, saved a bunch of weight and easy to do if you've already got the AC deleted.

If you want to get real simple belt wise, run just an alt on rotating bracket. Then do an electric water pump and P/S if desired.

 

[Phoenix]

Mount the alty on a sliding mount like an SBC, and you don't need a tensioner either. That's what I did on the chump car, saved a bunch of weight and easy to do if you've already got the AC deleted.

If you want to get real simple belt wise, run just an alt on rotating bracket. Then do an electric water pump and P/S if desired.

Thats what I did on the shogun. SBC ebay bracket. 9$.

 

[pitaSHO]

If you want to get real simple belt wise, run just an alt on rotating bracket. Then do an electric water pump and P/S if desired.

I was going to look into an electric water pump, too, but decided to leave that part alone. Thanks for the input.

 

[pitaSHO]

Phoenix, Thanks for the pics. It looks like you used an ATX crank pulley and water pump pulley. Did you have to shim the alternator or the bracket or did you just use an ATX alternator bracket? Actually, it looks like you used an entire ATX front end...

CK

 

[pjtoledo]

just reviewed an old Taurus factory manual, there was no mention of non-power steering. removing the piston from the rack should ease the force required considerably. or perhaps a crossover tube between the left and right cylinder ports.

Beware, the square slip joint on the lower part of the steering shaft does not like excessive torque. it can distort, resulting in 1-2" of play in the steering wheel.


Perry

 

[Phoenix]

Phoenix, Thanks for the pics. It looks like you used an ATX crank pulley and water pump pulley. Did you have to shim the alternator or the bracket or did you just use an ATX alternator bracket? Actually, it looks like you used an entire ATX front end...

CK

Yea forgot to mention , its a 3.2 with a 90 alt.

 

[Ocnaj]

Yea forgot to mention , its a 3.2 with a 90 alt.

So everything is 3.2 except the alternator? Makes things much simpler on the front end.