post 60k trouble? Bit of info inside..

[Snake2715]

Ok,

(its a 93 ATX with 63k on it no problems at all before 60k, new o2 sensors before 60k)

So I did the 60k and put the throttle gasket on wrong. Fixed that last night.

I let the car idle and it seemed to idle perfect. I took it out and it stumbles when i get it to about 40+ Its almost a miss but not exactly.

The plugs are almost brand new maybe 3k on them, They are tight and I have triple checked the plug wires and order thats alright.

I think I can hear a small hiss on the drivers side buts its not always present and the vents etc switch inside the car without any problems.

The BIG problem I noticed is when i first took it out last night and went to get on it I pressed the pedal maybe a 1/3 of the way down and it literally just didnt respond for maybe 5 seconds then it kicked up but it was extremely slow to respond.

I took it down the block to a gas station and put some gas in it. On the way back home I could feel a small bit of stumbling at anything above 35-40 mph..

when I parked it and let it idle it ran perfect and I started it and shut her down mutliple times no problem.

No engine light and I will be getting any and all codes today.

I dont know what else to say. The one question I do have since I have serached this subject all morning is what is the real torque of the head bolts? I broke a valve bolt on the 60k service at 12 ft/lbs so when I read the 60k (off SHOPP) it said 12-15 and I went to about 12 on them as I was afraid of snapping one.

Other than that I have NO clue as to how I would have any vacuum leak....

Just some carb cleaner and to listen to idle increase to check vacuum right?? I used amonia last night and found no increase in idle.

Please help with pointers...

 

[Snake2715]

Well,

Since no one took the time to even give their advice I will answer it myself in case it can help someone in the future.

A few pointers that cant be stressed enough when doing the upper 60k are as follows:

A) I ran into some berrymans residue on the bottom of my intake exactly where it meets the new intake (metal) gaskets. I took some extra time to make sure that was all gone and shiny aluminum was present to assure a good seal.

B) After some searching I decided to take this extra step after I removed the intake for the second time...
I loosened all the 12mm bolts that hold the intake together (just loosened I didnt remove them) and the 7mm bolts on all the hose clamps, this allows the intake to flex. I then set the intake on the engine. Made sure it was flush and proceeded to tighten down the accessible 12mm bolts on top of the intake.

Remove the intake flip it over and then torque all the 12mm bolts to 11-17ft-lbs. Reinstall the intake and bolt it down then proceed to tighten the hose clamps as needed.

After doing these two things along with some other inspections since I was back in there so soon it went together and gave me zero problems. I most likely had a leak somewhere and most likely multiple small leaks.

 

[SHOtimer]

I broke a valve bolt on the 60k service at 12 ft/lbs so when I read the 60k (off SHOPP) it said 12-15 and I went to about 12 on them as I was afraid of snapping one.

I am glad that you got everything back together and it is working well. But, to help you and anybody else reading this, that torque range is wrong. In my '95 Ford Helms manual it says the valve cover bolts should be torqued 7-11lbs. Not 12-15, as what happened to you, when you torque them that high they will snap.

Doug