pinging knocking + few codes

[tgsho]

Hi... I just got another sho. has a couple issues which I am currently replacing. When I got the car, the waterpump would squeel, and make noise and sounded like it was going to go.The belts would squeel on startup. The engine also had a small pinging/ knocking coming from the front vavle cover. The heater core is also by-passed right now. The pinging went away on higher rpms, and didnt sound too major. I ran some codes, and got...

81 - IAS circuit failure... which I think is to do with the IAB valve on the intake?

51 - ECT engine coolant temp is way too high.

25 - Knock sensor not sensed..


At that point I decided to do a full 60k, front and upper + any sensor that was needed, CV boot, oil change, etc.

As of today the front 60k is done. I have the front valve cover off, and I am about to measure the shims and inspect the vavles for something stuck...? I also realised that the knock sensor does not even go into the head, but into the block itself... So how does the sensor work, is it measuring the frequency of the crank? It also seems hard to access; under the fuel rails... any ideas...?



:type: Here are my valve measurements.
View attachment 175

INTAKE
a=.007
b=.010
c=.009
d=.011
e=.010
f=.008

EXHAUST
g=.013
h=.012
i=.012
j=.012
k=.011
l=.011


TIA

 

[tgsho]

Please help guys.... I am stuck right now...

 

[tgsho]

ok... after further inspection I noticed that one of the knock sensor wires(yellow one) is frayed. I bet thats why the knock sensor is not sensed... but I dont know if it has anything to do with the "pinping" in the valve cover area.
How do I releive the pressure in the fuel rails? how do I get the injectors out?
The bolts on the fuel rails (4x I think) is all that hold the rails on... then the sensor and wires are easier to get at.

 

[Phoenix]

ok... after further inspection I noticed that one of the knock sensor wires(yellow one) is frayed. I bet thats why the knock sensor is not sensed... but I dont know if it has anything to do with the "pinping" in the valve cover area.
How do I releive the pressure in the fuel rails? how do I get the injectors out?
The bolts on the fuel rails (4x I think) is all that hold the rails on... then the sensor and wires are easier to get at.

Rermove the 4 bolts and your done , the injectors will follow them. there 1 or 2 little ones holding the end of one side , you'll have to remove those too.

Begin by fixing your fried wire. Faulty knock sensor / in this case the wire connecting to it.

When knocking is seen by the knock sensor , the Computer retards (or advance cant remember) the timing to prevent it. And since it cannot communicate with it.... the CPU doesnt know if it's pinging (if it's really pinging , sometimes people confuses terms/noises) .

Anyhow , I hope this helps you understand a bit more.

 

[tgsho]

there 1 or 2 little ones holding the end of one side , you'll have to remove those too.


When knocking is seen by the knock sensor , the Computer retards (or advance cant remember) the timing to prevent it. And since it cannot communicate with it.... the CPU doesnt know if it's pinging (if it's really pinging , sometimes people confuses terms/noises) .

Anyhow , I hope this helps you understand a bit more.

Thanks... what do you mean by... "there 1 or 2 little ones" ... bolts?

So the fuel rails will come out with the injectors attached? Do I have to pull the injectors out of the head at all? I will obviously leave the fuel attached so I dont have to disconnect any lines of not ness. I know for a fact its a medium.. not severe ping that is coming from the front of the valves...

 

[Phoenix]

Thanks... what do you mean by... "there 1 or 2 little ones" ... bolts?

So the fuel rails will come out with the injectors attached? Do I have to pull the injectors out of the head at all? I will obviously leave the fuel attached so I dont have to disconnect any lines of not ness.

In order ,

Yes , yes , exacly.

 

[tgsho]

i'll give it a shot and update later... thanks for your help phoenix

 

[93rev2sev]

Also, to clarify, The injectors are held into the head by the fuel rails(sandwitched between). If you remove the bolts to the fuel rail, the seal from the injector to the head and fuel rail might be compromised. If it's a high milage motor, chances are you will have one or 2 leaking injectors when you are done, unless you take the time to clean and inspect the seals, replacing any hard or cracked ones.

A word of advice...

If you plan on working on the fuel system, be prepared to remove fuel fittings. It may not be necessary, but you don't want your lack of a $5 Lisle fuel fitting tool set to slow you down. You may also want to remove the fittings so that you can completely remove the fuel rail, clean it, inspect the wireing underneath, Etc..

 

[tgsho]

I removed the fuel rail this morning, and came out the injectors, a few seals and the rubber seperators (about 1"x1" 1/4" rubber grommet) for the fuel rails.

I took the wiring out for the knock sensor, and soldered, heat shrunk and added new loom so hopefully that will not happen again. I am waiting to get a 1 1/8 deep socket to replace the knock sensor (I might as well becuase I am there and I already bought one thinking the sensor was gone.) I will go over all the injector seals and go from there. Hopefully its not hard to put the fuel system back in.

That tool you mentioned above.. the LISLE fft, what is that used for?

Thanks for your help everyone.

 

[93rev2sev]

The fuel system connections. Thay are a snap to remove if you have that tool...literally.
You just take the little end and slide it under the spring on the "large" side of the fitting. Then, you just push the whole tool towards the connection(further under the spring) while separating the two pieces of fuel line. Be sure to have a rag handy for fuel drippings. When it's time to put it back, they just snap together.

 

[tgsho]

just waiting for my injector seals to arrive at my local parts store, so i can then finish the upper 60k and sensors. hopefully the car will run much better after I am done.