Part number for shift shaft seal

[AREA 91]

This is for the gear selector. Where the rod shifter clevis bolts to the tranny.
I found the Ford part # E43Z-7288-A
Anyone know the aftermarket part #?
National?
Felpro?
Chicago Rawhide?

 

[93MTXSHO_STUD]

just call autozone and tell them you want to look up the pn for the transmission input shaft seal. I did my last summer. It was somewhat of a PITA trying to line it up properly. It might have been national brand, i dont know for sure though.

 

[itwonder]

Timken 710274. BUT...I used one of those and it leaked. Maybe my bad, but I replaced it with the Ford E43Z-7288-A seal (which is made in Japan) and no problems since. The price was not much different between the two. I used a short piece of PVC pipe and coupling to make an installer, and wrapped the end of the shift shaft and the bolt hole with electrical tape to prevent cutting the seal as it went on.

FWIW, Seal Spec: Shaft: 0.610" Bore: 1.102" O.D. 1.108" Width: 0.598" Style: 680 Material: Fluoroelastomer (Viton) Other: Has ****** for dust boot.

 

[zak]

My trans is currently out of the car, I need to split the case and reseal it - leaks in the high pressure area above the ring gear.

Is this seal any more difficult or not to replace with the transmission in the car? I have a 95 with around 92 K miles on it, thinking of letting sleeping dogs lie . . . .

Thanks for any advice - zak

 

[Bizzy]

My trans is currently out of the car, I need to split the case and reseal it - leaks in the high pressure area above the ring gear.

Is this seal any more difficult or not to replace with the transmission in the car? I have a 95 with around 92 K miles on it, thinking of letting sleeping dogs lie . . . .

Thanks for any advice - zak

John,

I'm not sure if I understand exactly where yours is leaking from. Are you talking about where the two case halves meet up above the ring gear? If so, then splitting the case and resealing with Permatex Anaerobic sealant is your only option.

The axle seals, while they can be changed out with the trans mounted to the car, it is much easier to remove and replace those seals with the trans not mounted to the car. When removing you'll need to whack a flat head screwdriver through the metal part of the seal and pry on it. Many people try to slip a flat head under the lip of the seal and what they end up doing is damaging the case there by gouging it. If you're careful it can be done that way, but take your time and be precise with the screwdriver. Remember, your case is made of aluminum.

When replacing the axle seals, whether using Ford replacement parts or aftermarket, I generally put a small bead of anaerobic sealant around the lip where the seal will meet the case prior to installing it. The Ford seals have a rubberized seal dealio already on it, but when they sit on the shelf aging, I just don't trust it. To be sure that it's sealed right the first time, use a little bit around that lip.

The shift shaft seal is a breeze either way, with the exception of having to jack the car up and crawl up under the car. That would be the hardest part about that seal. Again, a small bead of anaerobic sealant around the outer edge where it will mate with the case is good cheap insurance. You don't need to use a huge amount, just a dab'll do it. If your trans is out, just replace the seal for good measure. There's nothing like getting everything installed, thinking you're done and then finding out a month later that the seal needed to be replaced. It's cheap, it's easy. Just do it and be done with it.

If that doesn't answer your question just let me know.

For future reference, Josh carries all those seals on his website to my knowledge. If he doesn't have one, the part numbers are listed for them.

 

[gmorrell]

My trans is currently out of the car, I need to split the case and reseal it - leaks in the high pressure area above the ring gear.

Is this seal any more difficult or not to replace with the transmission in the car? I have a 95 with around 92 K miles on it, thinking of letting sleeping dogs lie . . . .

Thanks for any advice - zak

What I do to shift shafts...

If you're opening up the trans case anyway, take the extra time to pull the gate, knock the shift lever off the end of the shift shaft and pull out the shift shaft (turn it 180 degrees first so the round of the shaft is against the detent ball...), watch for flying ball bearing when you pull out the shaft.

Now that the shaft is in your hands...

1. De-burr the hole for the bolt which attaches the shift linkage to the shaft, this lessens the chance you'll mung up the shaft seal when you install it. I use a 60º countersink in the drill press and a V-block to fixture the shaft.

2. Chuck up the shift shaft in your drill press, set the spindle to high speed, then using a strip of Crocus cloth, put a high polish on the shaft over it's whole length. This component works and seals waaaay better when it has a high degree of surface smoothness.

Beavis says "Polish your whole shaft - Heh, heh."

 

[AREA 91]

Timken 710274

Anyone else????

 

[zak]

Bizzy - you are correct, the ring gear slings trans fluid upward into a passage that pressurizes the bearings. The outfit I hired for my Quaife install buggered the case half sealing, it let go on a dyno test. Have been limping it along by carefuly cleaning the top rear of the trans, in the car, and spraying Permatex gasket dressing on it.

Gary, thanks for the input, I am pretty nervous about opening this trans up, but maybe if I watch Josh's video a couple more times . . . .

Area 91 - Shift shaft seal, Timken 710274 = National Seal 710274 (now owned by Federal Mogul so likely their p/n as well).

Seems the only seal we have not discussed is the input shaft seal, Ford p/n E3FZ7A011A = Timken 3638 = National Seal/Federal Mogul 3638 = Chrysler front crankshaft seals for 300 and Pacifica through '05-'06 or '04-'05, respectively.

Lastly, it appears Mother Ford saw fit to develop improved output shaft seals for us, I think its a MY 2002 design. I am researching these as part of my tranny reseal and will report out part numbers if they work.