parking brake cable...

[DavidT]

I am finally going to order them from FPN. Mine have been sticking for some time now. It is the pass. rear.
Do I need to get the rear left AND right cables?
I seem to be having another problem though. When I am going slow (not hitting the brake), the same rotor is making all kinds of noise. Could this be related to the e brake cable? (Even though the spring IS fully released on the caliper)
The caliper is only a few months old. The noise is really loud. Its a wallowing type sound. If I start to apply the brake it will go away. After a 15 mile trip and A LOT of noise, the wheel did NOT get abnormally hot.??
What do you smart sho owners think?

 

[DavidT]

anybody?
I need to get this fixed ASAP, as it is getting worse each day.
Does the e brake cable have anything to do with this? I need to address whats making the awful noise first. As I said, the mechanism IS fully released, and there doesn't appear to be much dragging with the car jacked up (and turning the wheel by hand). (is it supposed to free spin? because it doesn't. But it's not locked up either.) And the wheel DOES NOT get abnormally hot after driving.
Whats up with the noise? This does not make any sense to me.

Edit. From some extensive searching it appears I need to check 2 things. Slider pins and brake hose. But could these be the culprit from the described problem?
If it was the brake hose, wouldn't that make it ineffective in braking? WOuld a check consist of jacking the car up and having someone apply the brake... if the wheel locks, then the hose is fine.??
The boot for the slider pin is torn.

<small>[ November 26, 2002, 03:46 AM: Message edited by: dkautumna ]</small>

 

[philallemang]

the wheel should spin freely, when you jack it up and spin it. I would say that it is a sticking caliper and/or a warped rotor. even thou, the caliper spring is back all the way, the caliper its self can be pushed out yet and drag. slider pins and boots could be your problem too, just have to do some lookin around

 

[Mike Spataro]

I just changed the driver's side cable on my 92. It worked out fine. The cable on the passenger side was still good and did not require replacement. I suggest you take car of the stuck cable with a new replacement and you may find that it solves your other problems. When you are changing the cable check the caliper slider pins. Make sure they move freely , they are well lubricated and the boots are not broken. The next area to inspect is the rotor. It may be warped from the sticky cable. Have it surfaced if you suspect warpage. Good Luck. Mike

 

[stevetatro]

People have theorized that the brake lines either swell in their old age or the metal bracket rusts, expands (as do rusting metals) and pinches the brake hoses. If this is the case, the fluid would still make it to the caliper (since it's being pushed that direction with quite a bit of force) but it may not make it back through the pinched/swelled hose, as there's really no pressure pushing it back. This supposedly causes a caliper to not fully release. A quick check would be to simply open the bleeder screw on that caliper. If quite a bit of fluid comes out it was probably trapped between a pinch in the hose and the caliper. If not, look elsewhere.

Sticking slider pins are a common problem. Easy to check, as you just pull the pads out (or remove however much stuff you want: rotor, caliper, bracket) and see if the caliper is able to freely move along the pins. Make sure there's plenty of grease in the boots and the boots are sealing properly to keep the grease from drying out.

Another problem people have reported is warped rear caliper brackets. Even if your slider pins are functioning properly, the caliper won't slide along the pins smoothly if the bracket is warped, since the pins won't line up properly. People have surmised that the rear brackets can warp due to excessive heat, but I don't know.

Your problem is definitely not just in the e-brake cable, if the cable is detached from the caliper and you still have some "sticking".

Good luck.

 

[rangerj]

When you replaced the calipers a few months ago did you replace the slider pins and boots?

Do you get any noise when you spin the wheel?

Have you checked the rear bearings?

As for the emergency brake cables, they should be in about the same condition, unless one was changed previously. Ergo, if you are going to change one, change them both.

Look at the brake pads for any unusual wear. If the inside pad is worn at an angle it indicates a piston is cocked in the caliper.

If the inside pad is worn more than the outside pad, it indicates that the piston is being held out against the disk. Compare the right and left inner pads. Is one side worn more than the other?

Did you replace the disks and pads with the new calipers? Did you pump fresh fluid through the system when you changed the calipers? If you did this should rule out a blockage in the lines.

Check you brake line for any kinks or crimps due to foreign object damage (FOD) (road debre).

Check your ABS sensor ring. Is it out of place and rubbing against something, or otherwise damaged? Is something else loose or broken and rubbing against something it shouldn't?

Just a few thoughts from past experiences. Hope they help, rangerj

 

[DavidT]

Thanks for the info. guys thumbs_u
First things first. I just ordered the e brake cable from Torrie. I am not a mechanic, nor am I mechanically minded. Does anyone have a step by step procedure for replacing the RH cable?