Opportunity for a 2012 MKS - mechanic special

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jchaase

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My neighbor has a 2012 MKS that he's willing to let go for cheap. Has some sort of transmission issue (their diagnosis, I haven't validated yet). States it gets a bad shudder between about 40-60 mph. It's drivable. Here's my question:

Let's say it's not a wheel out of balance or a tire with a bubble or a misfire or bad fluid or something else easily resolved. Let's say the trans is shot. How hard is it really to swap-out the transmission in a home garage? I looked at the service manual (I have a 2011 SHO) and it doesn't look awful, but it does need a few special tools. Looking at used trans prices on car-part and they're dirt cheap. I'm in the upper midwest, so rust is a concern with removing exhaust fittings and subframe connectors. I've done some medium-skill repair tasks - wheel bearings, ball joints, brakes, water pump (external ones!), power steering, replace rear differential, electronic work, etc. - and I've replaced the starter in my SHO, so I know how to do some of the top-end "getting to the trans" work already! :)

Car recently had dealer replace all injectors (two were stuck open) and water pump was done at dealer in last 10K miles. The engine seems like it should be set for quite some time. Body is in good shape, about 140K on the clock.

If the price is right, what would you do?
 
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SM105K

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Run. No amount of saved money, is going to save your from the headaches you will receive from this car.
 

Honz24

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I'm on my second set of General Gmax AS-05 tires, first set lasted 40kish miles with some aggressive driving. I just moved from Wisconsin to northern IL and they are pretty decent tires in all winter driving conditions... I now know to be cautious when driving through deep snow that transitions to bare pavement, the snow packs in the tire tread in the snow and is slick in the pavement until the tires make a revolution and the tread clears out.
 

Bluezone

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My neighbor has a 2012 MKS that he's willing to let go for cheap. Has some sort of transmission issue (their diagnosis, I haven't validated yet). States it gets a bad shudder between about 40-60 mph. It's drivable. Here's my question:

Let's say it's not a wheel out of balance or a tire with a bubble or a misfire or bad fluid or something else easily resolved. Let's say the trans is shot. How hard is it really to swap-out the transmission in a home garage? I looked at the service manual (I have a 2011 SHO) and it doesn't look awful, but it does need a few special tools. Looking at used trans prices on car-part and they're dirt cheap. I'm in the upper midwest, so rust is a concern with removing exhaust fittings and subframe connectors. I've done some medium-skill repair tasks - wheel bearings, ball joints, brakes, water pump (external ones!), power steering, replace rear differential, electronic work, etc. - and I've replaced the starter in my SHO, so I know how to do some of the top-end "getting to the trans" work already! :)

Car recently had dealer replace all injectors (two were stuck open) and water pump was done at dealer in last 10K miles. The engine seems like it should be set for quite some time. Body is in good shape, about 140K on the clock.

If the price is right, what would you do?
I'd be careful. My first inclination is either the PTU is on the way out because of the shutter or there are front drive axle problems. Potentially the intermediate shaft on the passenger side may need replacing. It's a Ford only part and not cheap. Worse if it is the bearing on the intermediate shaft you will need to update the outboard CV joint shaft. This is because Ford no longer makes the 2010 to 2012 mks/sho all-wheel drive intermediate shaft. So you would need to buy the updated 2013 and up CV shaft to compliment the new inner intermediate shaft. Don't ask how I know.
 

Tbird6

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How much is a 2012 model car with 140K miles on it and a bad transmission worth?
Just about zero. Even if you fix it take a look at what those sell for with no problems and way less miles. Yea not much!

Unless you want a project I don't see how you will do anything but keep sinking money into a car you did not really want?

Also you did not say if it was an ECO-Boost or not and if not forget it!
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luigisho

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You understand this person hasn't actually logged in since the day after the original post.
 

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