javon7065
SHO Member
This is quite helpful. thanks!!
Oil leak near oil fill cap
- Thread starter javon7065
- Start date
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javon7065
SHO Member
I am indeed a visual learner. Anything that you have the time to put together I would appreciate it. And yes, that is a good term: engine bay culture shock. The first car with a transverse mounted engine that I tried to do work on was my 1995 Chevy Corsica with the V6 that I bought new. once I found out that I would’ve had to tilt the engine forward to get to the back three spark plugs, I kind of quit the whole game of doing any kind of maintenance myself.
Thanks for the info about that sensor.
Junkyard_Mad-Scientist
SHO Member
The ol dog bones, undo the front mounts and rock it forward. I had a grand prix gtp, it was supercharged and I was 19 and it was cheap. It came in the yard for overheating, then it caught fire due to failed valve cover gaskets, over heated 2 more times, then got rear ended by a trail blazer. Still ran like a champ with the trunk pushed into the back seat.
I'll put something together and put it up probably in a thread of its own. Something anyone can add to but all can benefit from.
javon7065
SHO Member
I always like the Grand Prix! That’s a great idea. Thanks again. really appreciate it.
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javon7065
SHO Member
So after doing a cleanup of the area around and under the charge pipe I took a few drives and saw that it was still leaking. The only reason I was doubting that is because I was NOT seeing the dripping from the frame and pooling on the ground like I did the first time I looked. Since I have the ESP I called the dealer and dropped it off last night. Below is the link to the video inspection that I got this morning. I tried to attach the .mp4 file but was having an issue. They believe it's a leaky valve cover. They got approval from Ford and the parts will arrive on Monday. I just had the water pump and timing chain replaced a few months ago at this dealer. As I always do with warranty work, I like to get any other parts replaced, at my cost, while they are replacing the covered parts if the labor is already covered. Any recommendations from you guys for parts that could be swapped out while this job is being done?
Video report
Video report
javon7065
SHO Member
Update on this issue. Valve cover and gasket has been replaced. They kept it overnight at drove it 37 miles and then checked again and found no leaks. Got it back last night and drove it a bit and did not smell any burning oil. This morning though I noticed that there is still oil at the same spot that I originally noticed it, around that variable camshaft timing switch as can be seen in the picture. Should I complain to the dealer or this is perhaps a result of the replacement somehow and they forgot to clean it up, even though I was told they cleaned up all of the spilt oil. Any advice is much appreciated!
Clean it up yourself - take pictures and document. They should of cleaned it. I am concerned you are getting blowby, forcing the oil to come up the cap. Replace the oil cap, u can do that easily. Maybe the gasket is f'd up. I am hoping while they had the covers off they wouldve inspect them for cracks around the filler.
Attachments
javon7065
SHO Member
Yeah, that was my first thought. to just clean it and see if it returns. At first I thought that they just missed this area but this is a new valve cover. Thanks for the link for the cap. This is the most I have dealt with any dealer on any vehicle. I need to find a local shop that I can trust to work on this for non-warranty items. I don't assume they do anything they don't have to which I thought would be the opposite. I thought they would look for things to replace given the ESP
Where you from @javon7065
javon7065
SHO Member
I live in the Philadelphia, PA area
Maybe someone can advise near you a shop.
Junkyard_Mad-Scientist
SHO Member
I second what @kryptto said, find a reputable shop that's not on warranty time to give it a once over. based on the pattern of the spray it looks to be either coming from the oil cap also as kryptto said, or it could be coming from somewhere further up under the intake (where? no idea, based on gravity and the fact that one side of the oil fill neck is wet and one side is dry my money is on the cap since that appears to not been replaced) but this could end up being a bit of a wild goose chase, It could be the oil cap, it could be the o-ring around the VVT Solenoid (the part that is to the left of the oil filler cap mounted into the valve cover, previously referred to as a cam phaser sensor), it could be seepage from the charge pipe or noise maker or even the throttle body.
If you're game to do a little work of your own you're in a good position to take care of some light troubleshooting that will take an 8mm socket, a 10mm socket, and maybe a screwdriver. Now that the major leak has been dealt with by the dealer, I would systematically work through the potential issues, which is the same a shop would do but you can save yourself hundreds if you do it yourself. start with a solid inspection, feel under the charge pipe, is it wet? same with the throttle body, and the noise maker. after that I would remove and inspect the charge tube for cracks, like radiators, plastic expands with heat and pressure so it can be hard to see without boost pressure behind it and heat but its worth a look. after that you have a lot of open space to see the effected area and maybe spot some pooling. check the VVT solenoid for pooling as this part has to be removed each time the valve cover is removed and if the gromet was not replaced for any reason then the repeated removal and replacement could have damaged the seal. if no obvious answers are found then I would begin replacing parts small and easy to big and expensive.
below is a list of parts I've tracked down that are possible culprits in the area of your leak, the oil cap and gromet are a good place to start that you can likely do yourself and they are very inexpensive and genuine Motorcraft. I am originally from CT and Tasca is out of RI so I have used them frequently even being in FL. PA isnt far from them so shipping aught to be quick. The noise maker delete plug is in its final days of testing, i am going to pull it off saturday night and inspect it, as long as its good with no defects it will be available Sunday. The plug is an inexpensive way to eliminate the noisemaker in comparison to the MKS charge pipe I have listed. however, if the charge pipe is the issue it will need to be replaced. The plastic housing can crack although not common, and where the rubber hose meets the plastic housing can develop a leak as well.
Tasca Parts Oil Cap
Tasca Parts VVT Solenoid Seal
Tasca Parts MKS Charge Pipe "outlet"
If you're game to do a little work of your own you're in a good position to take care of some light troubleshooting that will take an 8mm socket, a 10mm socket, and maybe a screwdriver. Now that the major leak has been dealt with by the dealer, I would systematically work through the potential issues, which is the same a shop would do but you can save yourself hundreds if you do it yourself. start with a solid inspection, feel under the charge pipe, is it wet? same with the throttle body, and the noise maker. after that I would remove and inspect the charge tube for cracks, like radiators, plastic expands with heat and pressure so it can be hard to see without boost pressure behind it and heat but its worth a look. after that you have a lot of open space to see the effected area and maybe spot some pooling. check the VVT solenoid for pooling as this part has to be removed each time the valve cover is removed and if the gromet was not replaced for any reason then the repeated removal and replacement could have damaged the seal. if no obvious answers are found then I would begin replacing parts small and easy to big and expensive.
below is a list of parts I've tracked down that are possible culprits in the area of your leak, the oil cap and gromet are a good place to start that you can likely do yourself and they are very inexpensive and genuine Motorcraft. I am originally from CT and Tasca is out of RI so I have used them frequently even being in FL. PA isnt far from them so shipping aught to be quick. The noise maker delete plug is in its final days of testing, i am going to pull it off saturday night and inspect it, as long as its good with no defects it will be available Sunday. The plug is an inexpensive way to eliminate the noisemaker in comparison to the MKS charge pipe I have listed. however, if the charge pipe is the issue it will need to be replaced. The plastic housing can crack although not common, and where the rubber hose meets the plastic housing can develop a leak as well.
Tasca Parts Oil Cap
Tasca Parts VVT Solenoid Seal
Tasca Parts MKS Charge Pipe "outlet"
javon7065
SHO Member
Wow, I am very grateful for this detailed analysis and suggestions. I will start with the easiest steps, just cleaning the area with dawn and warm water in a spray bottle but will definitely feel around al the areas you mentioned first. I just watched the video inspection again and he does say that he sees a tear in the seal of the VVT solenoid and says "that may not be the only source of the leak" yet that part is not listed on the invoice as being replaced. The good thing is that the smell in the cabin is gone which I cannot tollerate. I have never gotten fully rid of the cigarette smell so another odor was just intolerable!
Love a good shop that doesn't offer to replace a possible part causing the issue.
javon7065
SHO Member
Exactly. Even when I specifically said, I will gladly pay extra for parts that you think need replacing. I guess I’m wrong about dealers. I would’ve thought they would look for a ton of stuff to replace when you’re doing warranty work now. I just need to find a someone near me who is good with the eco-boost engines. I’ll check all the other forums out as well.
T
Try Facebook SHO and eco-boost pages and ask for local shops.
javon7065
SHO Member
Thanks, will do.
Junkyard_Mad-Scientist
SHO Member
I thought the valve cover gasket set came with the grommet but it can be bought individually so maybe not. Also, warranty work is often reduced rate or flat rate for the shops so that usually trickles down to the mechanic. In short, warranties are great for big costly issues but it might not always be the best quality work, for pride in workmanship nowadays that costs full price.
javon7065
SHO Member
I never thought about warranty work not paying as much but perhaps just like a health insurance claim, they pay less than folks paying cash. The part number listed on the invoice for the valve cover is FG1Z6582E. I was looking to see what all is included in the box but didn't find anything quickly. However, felt all around the charge pipe and the oil fill cap and neck and didn't see any oil on the rag. I cleaned the area and then took it for a long ride and did not see any new oil in the area. Figures right? I assumed the worst but perhaps they actually fixed the issue. After a week of consistent driving I think I will mark this in the clear. Thanks for all of the assistance!!
Texas Marauder
SHO Member
New valve cover includes VVT seal, plug tube seals, cover gasket and bolts as an assembly.
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