Oil in Plug wells????

[pete315]

my 92 SHO has almost 180,000 miles. valve shims never touched. I don't hear any tapping at all. if you hear tapping, I would check them. if no tapping, I would leave them alone. of course, that's just my opinion. I'm sure there are plenty of SHO guys that insist on checking valves and they are not wrong at all.

 

[pete315]

I didn't use Chiltons book. and you don't need any special tools besides a torque wrench so you can stage down the rod caps in 2 stages. If you get that Y Pipe off, hardest part is wiggling out the oil pan. just take your time and you should have no problem. let us know how you make out. get Clevite bearings.

 

[revhardSHO]

I did the valve lash @ 212K. A shim in the back head was tapping away and the cam had dug a crater in it about half way through, so damage can happen if you put it off to long. Then again this motor has been beaten since day one, and I have heard of some motors going 300K without a valve lash (thats more than the life expectancy of most automotive engines). After the valve lash and upper 60K the engine ran like a dream. Since, it has been redlined every day, driven hard. 234,000 miles now and it runs just as strong. Dont be afraid to use your motor to its fullest extent.

 

[pudge235]

Ok great so its not too hard. Would you suggest me bringing the car to a muffler shop and getting the Y pipe bolts removed and replaced too make the job easier when I attempt to do the bearings. Also should I replace the oil pan gasket while im down there. And if im doing all this work is there anything else I should think about doing while im in there. Thanks guys you are the best...

 

[F-22 Raptor SHO]

You will have to replace the pan gasket as it is mostly RTV....16.00 for new gaskets at AZ.

Change the rod bearings and the main and thrust bearings....the are all right in there. Complete kit for all the bearings is just over 100 bucks IIRC.

 

[pudge235]

Ive heard things about the rod bearings going bad, but not about the main and thrust bearings. Are those things that I should worry about if I dont replace or just replace them since im in there?

 

[pete315]

I didn't want to write don't change the main bearings caps but from what I read and researched, these main cap bearing hardly ever go bad. all I did at 170,000 miles were the rod bearings. never touched the main bearing caps. just do the rod bearings and you should be good until 300,000 miles.

 

[pudge235]

great, thats what i thought. appreciate all the help. I actually picked the car up last night and am gonna start pulling it apart this weekend. I gues im gonna have to give my buddy at Autozone a call for my discount. HAHA

 

[pete315]

for your sake, I hope you had someone remove/install those Y Pipe bolts. when I did my rod bearings, I had my Y-Pipe changes 6 months before because pipe must have bottomed out at one point causing damage to pipe. On a side note, I found that one of the starter bolts was giving me a problem lining up. so I got from underneath the car, went inside and got a drink, then went back under car and bolt went right in. good luck with SHO

 

[pudge235]

how much do you think it would cost to actually have muffler shop do that? I have no problem making My life a little easier. Also is replacing the factory Y pipe with the sho shop or one of the others worth it?

 

[pete315]

if it costs you $50.00, it's worth it. BELIEVE ME! as far as the Y Pipe, I can't answer that. I put a stock Y Pipe on. I've heard lots of good things about that SHO Shop Y Pipe though. For me, it was not worth it because I'm not looking to race this car. You might have other intentions though. I would suggest you get the car running sweet before you invest in after market items. You made a smart decision with the rod bearings.

 

[smc]

I'm due for an emission test, and after reading this post I figured I would check my plug wells. The first one I pulled was dry. Sweet! The second was full of oil. Not sweet

Does anyone have any good ideas for removing the oil from the wells? I don't have an air compressor so I can't just blow it out.

Thanks,
SMC

 

[pete315]

you can do what I did. I took an old windex bottle. took off the spray nozzle with the tube. stuck tube in well and sprayed oil into bottle. I got about 95 % of oil out.

 

[fred79]

I used paper shop towels tore them into strips and dropped them into the plugs wells and pulled them out, takes about one sheet of towel per cylinder.

 

[SHOtimer]

I used paper shop towels tore them into strips and dropped them into the plugs wells and pulled them out, takes about one sheet of towel per cylinder.

That is what I did also. Whatever you do just don't take out the spark plugs and let the oil drain into the combustion chamber.

Doug

 

[Egg]

You might laugh at this but it worked great for me. I bought some plastic tubing cut a small hole in a two liter bottle, threaded the tubing into the bottle till it it sat at the bottem. took a vacum to the top of the bottle then used the tubing to suck out the oil. after most of the oil was gone i used a couple quick shots of carb cleaner to take care of any residue. i recomment somthing other than a plastic bottle because it has a tendency to calapse

 

[showoff99]

are you talking about the black one by new london ct