Oil in plug wells

[skipper]

Hello, I have oil in my spark plug wells.
1. Is this a major problem. I have read here and in other places that this is a common problem and will not cause any problems.
2. Where would the leak be? Head gaskets?
3. What happens if oil leaks down below the spark plug when I change the plugs?

Thanks, Mike

 

[Mike Kopstain]

Hello, I have oil in my spark plug wells.
1. Is this a major problem. I have read here and in other places that this is a common problem and will not cause any problems.
2. Where would the leak be? Head gaskets?
3. What happens if oil leaks down below the spark plug when I change the plugs?

Thanks, Mike

Mike,

The problem is common, but it is not symptom-less. At the very least, you're plugs, wires, and valve cover gaskets need to be replaced. There are 6 gaskets that seal the valve covers from the head and over time these become brittle and leak. When the oil fills the tube, the spark sometimes grounds out to the motor, since electricity takes the path of least resistance. This results in a poor running car. Some people have had their wells full of oil and notice that there car runs ok, while others say it runs horrible. The two groups have something in common however and that is that they both agree that with new plugs and wires and no oil leaking onto them, the car feels significantly stronger. I've found this to be the case in all of the SHOs that I have owned.

To avoid releasing the oil into the cylinder you can take the top of a windex bottle and "pump" the oil out of the well. To get the remainder, take some paper towels and stuff them down there with a flathead screwdriver, but now too tight. You don't want them getting stuck.

 

[Ferendon]

1. No it's not severe
2. The problem is leaky stem seals. They're inside you valve covers, and they are part of a valve cover gasket kit. You'll have to remove the intake, and valve covers, and replace the valve cover gaskets as well as the stem seals. They pull out easily, and seat back in easier. Torque the valve cover bolts 7-12 ft/lbs, and all the intake bolts 11-17ft/lbs.
3. Got to the nearest grocery store, and buy a turkey injector. It's a huge needle like the doctor uses, but much larger, and it has a very long needle. Stick the needle down in the well, and suck the oil out, you should be able to get most of it out. Costs about 3 bucks, and prevents oil from getting in the cylinder head. SHOULD some oil slip into the head, take all the plugs out, and AFTER the valve covers are reinstalled, try to crank the car a couple times, of course it won't start, but it'll blow the oil into the exhaust system, and you car will be a little smoky for a few miles. The needle is the best way to do it.

I did this 2 weeks ago, to 2 cars, at the same time. Truth be told it took us about 10 hours but we both cleaned our intakes thoroughly. It should take you 3-4 hours, if you have everything.

You'll need:
3/8" drive ratchet
3/8" drive torque wrench
10mm deep and shallow sockets
12mm shallow socket
12mm wrench
15mm wrench (or crescent wrench)
19mm wrench (or crescent wrench)
needle nose pliers
and I suggest a pair of lineman's or slip joint pliers.
some of the hose clamps have 3 teeth and needle nose pliers don't get all three teeth, and it's really hard to move a clamp like that. The gasket set is cheapest at Autozone, it's a Felpro set, p/n VS50378R, for $71.99. It has new valve cover gaskets and 6 stem seals, and the stem seals are about $50 by themselves. If you have the intake off and wanna rebuild it, the gasket set is cheapest at NAPA. About $40, and has all the gaskets for the intake, EXCEPT the TB gasket. Good luck, and might wanna get some help to pull the intake off.

 

[skipper]

Ferendon, WOW, thanks for the specific info. That is great. I will give this a go on a weekend. I have to get the car running first. My car stopped while on the highway and hasn't run since. No Spark. I am working this out on another thread. Most likely computer since no codes ever display.

Also, Mike, Thanks for the info as well.

Mike

 

[Blue-By-U]

Mike
If you have never performed a 60/120k service on a SHO, I highly recommend purchasing the 60k video from www.shonutperformance.com . You will be able to see exactly what and how things should be done. Otherwise, good luck and use the search function for additional information

 

[autobahnsho]

I ditto what they said.

And don't try to go the cheap way- I sucked the oil out (It was all the way to the top of the well!) and put new plugs in, still saving $$ for the wires.

It went from driving on 6 to driving on 3 or 4 cylinders. A few weeks later and I put new wires on. Do a search here because the order they plug up is wrong in the Chilton's manual (and probably autozone.com although they have some good procedures for the SHO!).

Now my car is burning TONS of oil, and the fuel is getting into the oil. I've read up on it here and figure that running w/ some cylinders not firing messed up the piston rings. I won't be able to save the engine, probably. And it's near impossible to get a SHO engine in Germany, so come next year the car will probably be scrapped...... :jpshakeh:

 

[Ferendon]

So autobahn, when you did that work, your car ran crappy? Cause mine's jerking at low RPMs, and especially when i push on the gas at an anything but gradual rate... I got new stem seals, valve cover gaskets, intake manifold gaskets, but not wires. My friend did the exact same work at the same time, but his stem seals on the front had been replaced, and the rears weren't that bad, so he had a little oil in spark plug well #4, but not much at all... No problems for him, and considering we did the same work at the same time, and nothing abnormal happened on reconstruction, I'm hoping it's bad wires, cause once I start getting towards 3k the sputtering goes away, except for maybe one or two more "putts".

All in all, I think my wires are soiled
*post officially HIJACKED*

 

[autobahnsho]

That sounds like what mine was doing. Ran real weak, jerky, at about 3k rpms it would get a little better, but the junk wouldn't do more than 95mph with it floored for a long time. (In that same stretch of road I can usually get up to around 125-ish. If the wife isn't in the car. )

If your wires are cracked you need to replace them. You can sorta see how mine were-
www.photoisland.com
login id = autobahnsho
password = sho
look under sho maintenance

 

[Dr. Tweak]

For instructions on changing the plug well seals, check out the SPP website (link in my sig)