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Or an auto tank drain, a la air compressor tank.Time for an air-oil separator.![]()
Okay... WOW! I did not know that my car was intercooled....So yesterday I finally got around to checking my intercooler for oil. 2013 non PP with 52,000 miles, figured it wouldn't be all that bad but I have always had that surge or misfire feel with low rpm, heavy throttle accelerations.
I didn't take a picture of the dipstick, but the oil was up to the first bump on there! This was before the car was jacked up on the drivers side.
With no idea how to get it out I tried a small pathetic squeeze pump from the parts store with no luck.
I consider myself pretty confident in the "Afro Engineering" department, and made this up...
View attachment 1707
The large tube from the left is my shop vac... I wasn't sure I wanted to post this picture because it is wildly ghetto! But hey, it worked Very well!!!
5 HP was plenty to get that THICK sludge and oil out.
Car drives 10X better now.
I know many have stressed this before but check this often!!!
Okay... WOW! I did not know that my car was intercooled....
Thanks 13blacksho!
P.S. How much gunk in on the inside of your shop-vac?
Have you purchased this rx feller and does it do what it says it should?Good going! Exactly how much did you get out, any idea? Pretty similar arrangement to this:
http://www.ecoboostperformanceforum.com/index.php/topic,3056.0.html
No I have not. People that have I believe had the most success when the catch can is mounted in the coolest location possible (like the front fender area in an X Sport), and also during winter time. Since the whole idea is to maximize condensation of catch can vapors, the cooler the better. Nice to have a kit that has a built in drain point too. Again, the experience will be variable with the SHO, it was definitely problematic with the F150s more often. If the intake tubes and intercooler are relatively free of oil (no pooling) & crud, most likely the catch can is not needed.
Also note, if you do find oil pooling, and you have a 2013+, you can ask your Ford dealer to see if you qualify for the upgraded valve cover fix for free. Since PCV is an emissions issue, if you are under the emission warranty mileage (80K (?) for most states, 150K for California if PZEV I think), it should be.
I did a quick Google search for Taurus SHO PCV TSB and found TSB 14-0113. That's applicable for the SHO from 2010-2014 according to what I found. According to the article the fix is a new valve cover and oil separator. Is this the same TSB you're referencing?Haven't heard of any. Probably would be if Ford had established a need. Also TBH I don't know what the differences are between the 2010-12 & 2013+ valve covers. Worth a trip to a friendly parts dept?
Does it? Goes to show what I knowI did a quick Google search for Taurus SHO PCV TSB and found TSB 14-0113. That's applicable for the SHO from 2010-2014 according to what I found. According to the article the fix is a new valve cover and oil separator. Is this the same TSB you're referencing?
The first two steps of the TSB are listed below. Based on the steps, it sounds like the separator is inside the valve cover since you remove the PCV and then inspect the separator through the opening.Everyone keeps talking about this factory oil separator is there a picture of it or where it's located?
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Yeah, I was looking it up to see what were the differences in the valve covers. But I only found that one so wasn't sure if there was another one or not.Does it? Goes to show what I knowYeah thats the one. Thx for double-checking!


Got to save that info. ThanksI believe the 14-0196 TSB is the latest revision for that issue.
http://www.revbase.com/BBBMOTOR/TSb/DownloadPdf?id=187145
The oil separator part is listed as AA5Z-6A785-F, I think it's the part the PCV Valve screws into?
Per the 2011 FSM:
View attachment 1923
Item Part Number Description
1 6A666 PCV valve
2 — Crankcase ventilation tube-to-PCV valve quick connect coupling (part of 6C658)
3 6C658 Crankcase ventilation tube
4 6A785 Crankcase vent oil separator
Removal and Installation
- Release the wire harness pin-type retainer from the crankcase vent oil separator.
- Disconnect the crankcase ventilation tube-to-PCV valve quick connect coupling. For additional information, refer to Section 310-00 .
- Remove the 3 crankcase vent oil separator bolts.
- To install, tighten to 8 Nm (71 lb-in).
- Remove the crankcase vent oil separator from the RH valve cover.
- To install, reverse the removal procedure.
I believe the 14-0196 TSB is the latest revision for that issue.
http://www.revbase.com/BBBMOTOR/TSb/DownloadPdf?id=187145
The oil separator part is listed as AA5Z-6A785-F, I think it's the part the PCV Valve screws into?
Per the 2011 FSM:
View attachment 1923
Item Part Number Description
1 6A666 PCV valve
2 — Crankcase ventilation tube-to-PCV valve quick connect coupling (part of 6C658)
3 6C658 Crankcase ventilation tube
4 6A785 Crankcase vent oil separator
Removal and Installation
- Release the wire harness pin-type retainer from the crankcase vent oil separator.
- Disconnect the crankcase ventilation tube-to-PCV valve quick connect coupling. For additional information, refer to Section 310-00 .
- Remove the 3 crankcase vent oil separator bolts.
- To install, tighten to 8 Nm (71 lb-in).
- Remove the crankcase vent oil separator from the RH valve cover.
- To install, reverse the removal procedure.
