91PDXmocha
Active Member
Hey , does anyone have the part # for the oil filter adaptor so I can run a remote set up ? Transdapt , mr gasket somthing ? thanks
Oil filter adaptor part #
- Thread starter 91PDXmocha
- Start date
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Why the remote setup? I'd opt for an oil cooler over a remote setup (which I ultimately end up doing). If you're going to do this, get a high flowing take-off plate and run a minimum of -10AN lines and fittings. I was able to squeeze some -12AN into my setup.
91PDXmocha
Active Member
I really don't like the 3 way T fitting for my oil light , gauge and now turbo line . I want to plug the rear and run the turbo and gauge off a line coming off a remote oil set up . If I run a oil cooler set up is it ok to make like a y block or something off that to get a port for the lines . It works the way it is but I dont like how close it all is to my downpipe .
Twisted6
New Member
Wix part # 24730, it's what I am using. It is just the spin-on adapter, I purchased this one, along with the remote mount base for half the price of a Transdapt kit. Plus I set this one next to the spare one I had left over from my Pontiac (Which was a Transdapt) and the Wix is shinier! :sun:
quikSHOilver
Yamahaized
sandwich adapter
You might want to check this out as I am using this set up in my turbo sho
http://www.glowshiftdirect.com/oil-cooler-sandwich-adapter-34-unf-16.aspx
You might want to check this out as I am using this set up in my turbo sho
http://www.glowshiftdirect.com/oil-cooler-sandwich-adapter-34-unf-16.aspx
SHOtime2511
CGP
This is what Im running on my turbo SHO also.
Except I purchased it on ebay for about 1/2 that price.
91PDXmocha
Active Member
thanks for the replys guys , got mine yesterday 
going to put it on later today along with doing a oil change .
going to put it on later today along with doing a oil change .
shomethe$$$
SHO Member
I got rid of the factory oil heater, total waste in my opinion, mad pressure drop through the oil heater bolt, do a search and a few members have cut the bolt to eliminate the heater block, then do as Yamahasho says run a cooler and oil thermostat, it gets complicated and pricey but ur motor will love it, we all know he blew a motor because of oiling issues, I prefer socketless hose but if you like pricking ur fingers with the SS braided go ahead, if the sandwich plate comes with a skinny o-ring don't use it, you'll never able to clock the plate and make a good seal, if you overtighten you'll crack the al. sandwich plate, I used the sq. oil filter seal and cut it thinner to fit in the sandwich plate groove, worked great. Make sure you put the filter in line of the original filter, don't put it on the other side of the engine bay.
If your using pipe thread fittings, don't use teflon sealer, make sure its the correct torque, trust me its usually tighter to get pipe threads to seal
If your using pipe thread fittings, don't use teflon sealer, make sure its the correct torque, trust me its usually tighter to get pipe threads to seal
91PDXmocha
Active Member
Thanks for the info , yeah I'm going to run a oil cooler set up , I ordered my aem wideband today and 2 more -10 an fittings to get the cooler started . Are you guys with them running like the Hayden aftermarket trans oil coolers ? Or any suggestions thanks .
hawkeye18
Sorta cares
Ok, forgive my ignorance, but how the **** do those sandwich thingies work? Does the oil come up through the center hole and out the sides? Does it go through the filter first, then out the sides to the cooler?
If I were to, say, repurpose the stock ATX cooler as an oil cooler, would I simply replace the stock oil cooler plate with the item referenced above and run lines to the cooler? Would that severely impact flow?
I'm just trying to separate all the fluid paths. As it is, the stock ATX mixes coolant with trans fluid, and coolant and oil (well, not mixes, but swaps heat with). The only fluid that has its own path is the PS fluid. I aim to fix that by putting in a separate trans cooler (with thermostat) and bypassing the radiator, and then using the stock trans cooler as an oil cooler and bypassing the oil/coolant thingy.
If I were to, say, repurpose the stock ATX cooler as an oil cooler, would I simply replace the stock oil cooler plate with the item referenced above and run lines to the cooler? Would that severely impact flow?
I'm just trying to separate all the fluid paths. As it is, the stock ATX mixes coolant with trans fluid, and coolant and oil (well, not mixes, but swaps heat with). The only fluid that has its own path is the PS fluid. I aim to fix that by putting in a separate trans cooler (with thermostat) and bypassing the radiator, and then using the stock trans cooler as an oil cooler and bypassing the oil/coolant thingy.
Phoenix
SHOHOLIC
jonheese
Used-To-Know-It-All
I don't think he was asking about the stock oil flow (****, I hope he's already got those pages, considering where they came from ), but rather how the aftermarket oil cooler sandwich thingies work.
), but rather how the aftermarket oil cooler sandwich thingies work.
shomethe$$$
SHO Member
The main hole is in the center, then the other passage is offset (not centered) within the sandwich.
91PDXmocha
Active Member
If u are like me and have 3 things hooked up to the back of the block AND a downpipe this part is worth it's weight in gold . Will make routing a turbo feed line much simpler .
hawkeye18
Sorta cares
I don't think he was asking about the stock oil flow (****, I hope he's already got those pages, considering where they came from
Lol, I had one of my questions answered by my own book. How humorous. Shame it was the wrong question, though.
But yes, I had forgotten to look through the book, and it does explain a lot. I guess I have a little better understanding of it now.
Does the center bolt that comes with the new plate bolt into the block? Or do I have to use the old bolt?
Also, what does that little hole on the side of it do?
91PDXmocha
Active Member
The 2 small ports are for oil gauge or pressurized oil lines ( turbo ) the big -10 an fittings are to run a aftermarket oil cooler set up . The middle thread screws onto the existing threads to hold it down and the piece is made of billet so all nice passeges on the inside of the sandwich .
gmorrell
Never been a noob...
If you're planning to ditch the OE oil cooler/heater, it's a bit more complex then buying a 3/4"-16 adapter like the Glowshift part linked above.
Reason is, the block thread is M20-1.5 straight thread, and the OE oil cooler stem adapts this to the 3/4"-16 thread of the filter. Here's a pic of an adapter I made about 10 years ago to convert the Metric block thread to a 3/4"-16 remote filter takeoff.
The OE oil cooler stem is really a pretty neat part, because it has a spring loaded valve in it's center that bypasses cold oil around the cooler so it doesn't try to force cold, thick oil through the cooler core. Those Yamaha engineers were pretty smart fellows.
Here's a block takeoff for an oiling system that has remote filter and a front mounted cooler.
I don't much care for the Glowshift oil cooler adapter because it doesn't have an oil thermostat. Two problems with that: One, the oil may never get warm, and cold oil is worse than overheated oil, and two, it subjects the external oil cooler to cold start oil pressure, which might burst the cooler. You'd be better off to use a thermostatic sandwich plate like one of the Mocal SP1's at the bottom of page 1 here:
http://97.74.103.94/files/thermos$.pdf
If you want a simple remote filter takeoff, and you're leaving the OE oil cooler, just get a simple 3/4"-16 thread takeoff plate like these Mocal units from BATinc.net
http://97.74.103.94/files/remotef.pdf
If you look at the last page of this linked doc, BAT now has a thread conversion ****** to convert 3/4"-16 to 20mm x 1.5, they didn't have these little jewels when I made mine, and M20 takeoff plates were Unobtanium.
Reason is, the block thread is M20-1.5 straight thread, and the OE oil cooler stem adapts this to the 3/4"-16 thread of the filter. Here's a pic of an adapter I made about 10 years ago to convert the Metric block thread to a 3/4"-16 remote filter takeoff.
The OE oil cooler stem is really a pretty neat part, because it has a spring loaded valve in it's center that bypasses cold oil around the cooler so it doesn't try to force cold, thick oil through the cooler core. Those Yamaha engineers were pretty smart fellows.
Here's a block takeoff for an oiling system that has remote filter and a front mounted cooler.
I don't much care for the Glowshift oil cooler adapter because it doesn't have an oil thermostat. Two problems with that: One, the oil may never get warm, and cold oil is worse than overheated oil, and two, it subjects the external oil cooler to cold start oil pressure, which might burst the cooler. You'd be better off to use a thermostatic sandwich plate like one of the Mocal SP1's at the bottom of page 1 here:
http://97.74.103.94/files/thermos$.pdf
If you want a simple remote filter takeoff, and you're leaving the OE oil cooler, just get a simple 3/4"-16 thread takeoff plate like these Mocal units from BATinc.net
http://97.74.103.94/files/remotef.pdf
If you look at the last page of this linked doc, BAT now has a thread conversion ****** to convert 3/4"-16 to 20mm x 1.5, they didn't have these little jewels when I made mine, and M20 takeoff plates were Unobtanium.
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hawkeye18
Sorta cares
That's what these guys are for:
http://www.bulkpart.com/Merchant2/m...uct_Code=708-4739&Category_Code=&Store_Code=2
Although, your solution might work better (and would certainly be more compact). I'm too pumped full of sleeping pills to be able to tell the difference. I'll look again tomorrow lol.
http://www.bulkpart.com/Merchant2/m...uct_Code=708-4739&Category_Code=&Store_Code=2
Although, your solution might work better (and would certainly be more compact). I'm too pumped full of sleeping pills to be able to tell the difference. I'll look again tomorrow lol.
gmorrell
Never been a noob...
Those are fine for low flow transmission cooling applications, but I wouldn't use them for engine oiling.
http://batinc.net/thermos.htm
OT1 in nothing less than 1/2", OT2 in nothing less than -10 AN. Remember, you're dealing with an oil pump that can flow in excess of 10 GPM. Small bore oil lines will **** your engine.
If you want to do a remote oil cooler, from a plumbing simplicity perspective (fewer fittings, potential leaks, etc.), a thermostatic sandwich adapter between the block and the oil filter is the best solution. There are two ways to do this on the SHO V6:
1. Use an M20-1.5 thermo sandwich adapter with an M20 straight thread ****** to adapt it to the block thread, but this now limits your filter choices to something with an M20 stem thread.
2. A better solution is to get a Mocal 3/4"-16 thermo sandwich plate, and use BAT's slick 3/4"-16 to M20 adapter ****** in the block, now the oil filter thread on the thermo adapter is still 3/4-16, and you can attach big-ass FL1-A style filters there.
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hawkeye18
Sorta cares
Ok, thank you! That just about explains it all for me... I might figure this out yet.
One last question... will the stock Gen 2 trans cooler present too much of a restriction for the oiling system? I don't want to go through all this work and have the cooler not flow enough. IIRC, the fittings on it are 3/8".
