O/D button problem

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etc1006

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Theres tiny ass wires in the shifer that run up to the button in the handle. Chances are one of them broke. Pull the colsole cover off around the shifter and find the wires, look for a broken one. Solder back together and protect the wire accordingly, reassemble. Also could be the bulb in the gauge cluster. Does it drop it out of 4th when cruising on the highway? HTH
 

naval-avi8or

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SHOsFAST said:
On my 93 ATX the O\D button on the shifter isn't working...Where should I start troubleshooting?

As stated already tiny A$$ wires. They are white in a mesh wire sleeve. Over time the pop loose from their to metal retaining clips and get caught and when you move the shift lever you cut/rip them in half. If you end up needing to remove the shift lever **** DO NOT attempt to twist/turn it or you will have to replace it. It has a spring clip that pulls straight out of a small slot on the front side of the shifter and then easily pulls straight off.
 

SHOsFAST

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naval-avi8or said:
As stated already tiny A$$ wires. They are white in a mesh wire sleeve. Over time the pop loose from their to metal retaining clips and get caught and when you move the shift lever you cut/rip them in half. If you end up needing to remove the shift lever **** DO NOT attempt to twist/turn it or you will have to replace it. It has a spring clip that pulls straight out of a small slot on the front side of the shifter and then easily pulls straight off.

I'll take a look at it tonight, thank you for the help guys
 

tedhontz

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Hi, newbie here with a question on this shifter ****. I just bought a 94 sho with automatic tranny. Engine seems to run good, body exterior is nice, but inside is majorally trashed. The tranny shifts through all the gears ok. It takes a little long in my opinion to go from 1st into 2nd but was told this is common. BUT, when I take off from a dead stop and put the pedal to the floor, it only goes up to about 3500rpm and then shifts. it does this for each gear therefore making the car slow and not utilizing the engine's power. Even more noticeable, when im going any speed and then nail the accelerator, the car will accelerate but won't drop down a gear for the passing pickup, it will however downshift when I stop at a redlight. I noticed the GEAR SHIFT itself is loose. I push the button in to take the car out of park, but the gear shifter handle turns side to side freely. WHen I push the od/off button, nothing lights up in the display. I figured I would try and tighten the shifter handle so I started to turn and turn, but nothing. I finally pulled lightly up and the whole shifter **** and stem cover handle came out! I can put the car in gear without even having the shift **** and cover on the shifter stem. Also, I see no wire coming from the od/off button when I look into the stem of the cover. It was obviously broke before I bought the car. Keep in mind its fully loaded and engine "seems" to run good and I bought it for $300, so anything is possible and I can tell the car has been rigged. When I move the grear shifter from park to reverse, it can hear an air vacuum type sound. is this normal? But what also has me puzzled is that when the vehicle is in park and idling perfect, i hit the gas peddle and should be able to rev it to 6000 rpms till a "limiter" would kick in. I can only rev the engine, even in park, to around 4000rpm and then it forces me back down to 3500rpm. Check engine light and battery lights like to flicker on and off on this vehicle, but my sister has a normal taurus with the 3.8L and her lights do the same thing for the last 5 years. Any advice? My 4 cyl Camry has more get up and go than this SHO does. Its like the agressive engine will not let me make it agressive. It sounds weak compared to a previous sho I drove. The supercharger type sound is missing. Help Please!!!!
 

ohfosho

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well the shifting problem is most likely the VSS acting up on you. do a search on that, theres quite a few threads floating around regarding that.

the shifter is supposed to have a 'U' clip in the front of it to hold it from any seperate movement from the shifter shaft.

the OD button if you want to be able to switch it, you will have to hook up an aftermarket switch to the wires that should be hanging around under the shifter there. there is a connection the wires go to, just 2 wires.

the vacuum sound is normal.

the rev limiter in park/neutral is set at 4000 for all ATX equiped SHOs...so you dont blow up the alternator among other things.

the dash lights...the battary light would mean a dying alternator, or weakening battary. the on and off CEL/check engine light, is most likely the O2 sensors...i think they are one of the only things that the CEL turns off sometimes when the car is still running.


good luck and nice find, a SHO for $300
 

tedhontz

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well I ended up checking the engine to see if I could retrieve any codes. It returned a code stating bad VSS. It also stated a problem with one of the o2 sensors. So I went to Autozone and bought the VSS for $18. I got the old one off using instructions found on this site. I am in the middle of putting it all back together and will let everyone know how that all turns out. Thanks for the help so far! I appreciate it.
 

tedhontz

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well i had the vss professionally installed. still no speedometer working. still doesn't want to downshift. im thinking that I have no Overdrive. Tranny does shift better with the new vss, but not perfect. Any other suggestions?
 

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