No power below 3k.......UPDATE

[Sho Nutz]

I am kinda stumped on this one,

If you barely touch the accelerator it will move, but if you try to give it to much the car falls on its face. after about 3k rpm you can go WOT without a problem. Pulls hard all the way to redline. Also if you shut the car off and then go to restart before it has cooled, it cranks over for a long time and you have to apply a little throttle to get it restarted and then it idles at just under 3k.

I tried pulling the check engine light codes but I cant seem to get any or I am just doing it wrong.

Can someone give me an idea of what this may be and give me the procedure to pull the codes ?

thanks,

Pete
.....................................

Ok, finally got around to scanning system and found the following codes..

113--IAT sensor high
118--ECT sensor high
121--TPS sensor out of range
123--TPS sensor high
126--MAO or BARO sensor out of range
157--mass air flow signal low
519--PSP switch open
528--system shows voltage at pin 10, clutch switch ?
542--Fuel pump open, bad ground or always on.

This point to one problem or an area of probs ?

I tried pulling off and clening my MAF, but it didnt help, silly question though, I thought the MAF sensors had a screen in them or something, this was just open space in it...

well either way, I hope someone has an idea of what I need to do, let me please and thanks.

Pete

<small>[ June 23, 2003, 11:15 AM: Message edited by: Sho Nutz ]</small>

 

[sdpatt]

It doesn't sound like a fuel pump problem since there is normal(?) power at higher revs. Verify that the secondary butterflies are closed at idle and if you blip the throttle by hand. The ATX has a rev limiter to prevent the engine from exceeding 4,000 rpm in neutral or park.

Here are a couple of good sources for information on checking the codes with just a simple jumper wire and the ignition key.

midwestsho.com
dalidesign.com
3-digit codes

 

[Sho Nutz]

Duh !!

Forgot to put down, this is a 93 MTX car, Not my ATX. dont know if this makes a difference.

 

[MOSHO92]

Well, verify the codes first but this is exactly what mine did when my MAF was going out. Try taking it out and cleaning it with some electrical cleaner and see if that helps.

 

[BlownByU]

I have the same problem, cleaned my MAF and it did make a difference but it's still not all there. I was just reading about the ECT and could this possibly be related. I have a lot of soot coming out the back and it takes a while for the fans to kick on, what do you think? squint

 

[Sho Nutz]

Anyone got a guess ?

 

[BlownByU]

Someone Help Us!

 

[Slo-Sho]

Using a digital multimeter, ground the negative test lead and probe the center wire coming from the TPS connector, key on (engine off). Verify that it's less than 1 volt.

 

[sdpatt]

There is something wrong with a common component of the electrical system since there is only a very small chance that all of those sensors have failed. Check the voltage at the battery terminals with the engine stopped and running. It could be a high voltage level rfom a failed voltage regulator that is confusing the EEC with the sensor inputs.

 

[Sho Nutz]

Possibly a bad ground ?

There are some power wires running off the battery that lead no where. I removed those but was wondering if a ground problem was possible...

Will check the suggestions you have given me so far, any other advise would be appreciated.

I paid $900.00 for the car with a leaking water pump and this check engine light, so I have a lotta room to play here

 

[Sho Nutz]

Anyone one have a clue ? I really dont wanna take this into the ford garage, half of the garages have no frickin idea what the car is to begin with......

 

[projectSHO89]

All of those sensors flagged by your KOEO test have one thing in common: A common ground circuit (Signal Return).

You will need a multimeter to check the circuit.

Look on the VIP Data Link Connector (DLC). (That's the self-test connector that you used to run the codes).

Disconnect the battery first.

Locate the GRAY/RED wire. Connect one meter lead to that pin. Located the GRAY/RED wire on each of the following sensor connectors and verify continuity: Clutch pedal switch, SPOUT connector, IAT sensor, PSP switch, BARO sensor, TPS, Knock Sensor, and ECT sensor. All must have continuity with each other and the pin on the DLC.

The final connection, the most critical one, is to pin 46 of the EEC-IV computer.

My guess is that you have an open in this circuit.

Please note: There is no direct connection of this circuit (#359) to ground. However, it probably is connected to chassis ground internally to the PCM module.

Steve

<small>[ June 24, 2003, 10:19 AM: Message edited by: projectSHO89 ]</small>

 

[Sho Nutz]

And if I do have an open circuit I need to do what ? Where is this common ground circuit ?

I will follow your suggestion to the " T " and post results asap..


Thanks for everyones help.

Pete

 

[projectSHO89]

Sho Nutz:
And if I do have an open circuit I need to do what ? Where is this common ground circuit ?

Fix it.

It would be somewhere in the wiring harness or at the PCM connecotr, if this is the problem (which I think it is).

Steve