all of a sudden my air starting blowing hot. i thought maybe the freon was low but after attaching a guage is was actually in teh red danger zone.. the compressor was working now it doesnt engage,.. maybe the compressor out?? any other parts that could affect this?
no ac anymore
- Thread starter sho chick
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SHO-NUF93
Zombie
It is probably reading high pressure as a result of the compressor not running. Sounds like your using one of those do-it-yourself refill kits(from Autozone?) to check the pressure. They're not usually too detailed about what's going on...and can only read the low side.
Check your fuses and relays. Your system could be physically fine, just sounds like the compressor clutch is not being energized.
Check your fuses and relays. Your system could be physically fine, just sounds like the compressor clutch is not being energized.
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Adumb
TSN
...or just rip it out
ac test
yes, i used a low port do it yourself guage. i checked the main fuse under the hood.. IS there a small fuse under the dash? where are the relays?? could it be that the freon is low, but then it would rapidly cycle right??
yes, i used a low port do it yourself guage. i checked the main fuse under the hood.. IS there a small fuse under the dash? where are the relays?? could it be that the freon is low, but then it would rapidly cycle right??
SHO-NUF93
Zombie
Yeah, if the freon was low, it would still cycle. To be honest, I'm not sure if there is a fuse inside for the AC or not...as far as the relays, I haven't had to search for any on mine yet. It's possible they are part of the CCRM.
Look for the connector for the low pressure switch...you can use a multimeter, or test light. Probe the wires at the connector with the AC and car running. If you have power, unplug it, and use a jumper wire...or the multimeter, to connect the two pins. If it works, this eliminates the switch.
If no power there, it's a fuse, relay, or broken wire.
If there is power, and you bypass the switch successfully, probe the wires at the compressor clutch...
Look for the connector for the low pressure switch...you can use a multimeter, or test light. Probe the wires at the connector with the AC and car running. If you have power, unplug it, and use a jumper wire...or the multimeter, to connect the two pins. If it works, this eliminates the switch.
If no power there, it's a fuse, relay, or broken wire.
If there is power, and you bypass the switch successfully, probe the wires at the compressor clutch...
The compressor clutches wear and stop engaging eventually.
You can test for a clutch problem by putting the eatc on max a/c, opening the hood, and CAREFULLY taking a broomstick and tapping the a/c compressor. If the clutch pulls in then, you know that the gap is too wide. You can pull off the clutch and take out a shim and reassemble it, and it typically works fine then.
There is a detailed thread on shotimes about this iirc. I just did it on the white 94 because the a/c would work fine until the engine got all warmed up, and then it would fail to engage. Now its just fine.
You can test for a clutch problem by putting the eatc on max a/c, opening the hood, and CAREFULLY taking a broomstick and tapping the a/c compressor. If the clutch pulls in then, you know that the gap is too wide. You can pull off the clutch and take out a shim and reassemble it, and it typically works fine then.
There is a detailed thread on shotimes about this iirc. I just did it on the white 94 because the a/c would work fine until the engine got all warmed up, and then it would fail to engage. Now its just fine.
NCTaurusSHO
Guest
i would cut all the A/C lines out, take the compressor off and turbo that baby. it is the only reasonable thing to do. you only NEED heat. Cold is what hurts.... Hot is just perfect with the windows down and the sound of a blow off valve every time you shift 
or you could just get it fixed.. lol.
ashley
Edit; plus if the compressor went bad..you would smell it...go take a whiff.....
or you could just get it fixed.. lol.ashley
Edit; plus if the compressor went bad..you would smell it...go take a whiff.....
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Some poeple still like to have A/C.
Could be a bad blend door. There is a testing procedure on SHOTimes to check.
The compressor or clutch could also be bad.
Could be a bad blend door. There is a testing procedure on SHOTimes to check.
The compressor or clutch could also be bad.
stangeater
Farm Boy
Last time I took a shim out of my compressor it was a major PITA!! Not a fast/easy procedure, but if the compressor is not kicking in, I would say that's your problem, and would have nothing to do with a blend door.
oldyak
New Member
does it have auto climate control?
then most likely blend door.
and do a search for fix.
then most likely blend door.
and do a search for fix.
hawkeye18
Sorta cares
eh... my money is on the clutch being worn. Find the dryer/accumulator (If you have an ATX it's on the firewall) and take the connector off the switch on top of it. Stick a paper clip into the harness side of the connector, shorting the two wires out. If the clutch is still off, then the problem is most certainly in the compressor/clutch. If it turns on, then there is a safety sensor that's either faulty or activating, forcing the compressor off. Or, that switch you just disconnected is bad. (Mine went bad... twice)
Re-shimming the compresser isn't *that* hard. I've done it. Twice. (two cars) A helpful hint is to get the finest pair of snap ring pliers with a 90 degree bend in them that money can buy. If you don't, you will repeatedly curse yourself as you slice your hand up - trust me on this one. I went through two sets before I finally caved and bought the $50 pair from NAPA... and it took me about 10 seconds after that. D'oh!
Also, remove the battery, battery tray, and alternator. This will make access much easier.
You can get a new clutch from "texaserick" or some variation on ebay for about $50 if you can't reshim it correctly. It will come with new shims, and you'll have a brand new clutch - always a good thing.
Re-shimming the compresser isn't *that* hard. I've done it. Twice. (two cars) A helpful hint is to get the finest pair of snap ring pliers with a 90 degree bend in them that money can buy. If you don't, you will repeatedly curse yourself as you slice your hand up - trust me on this one. I went through two sets before I finally caved and bought the $50 pair from NAPA... and it took me about 10 seconds after that. D'oh!
Also, remove the battery, battery tray, and alternator. This will make access much easier.
You can get a new clutch from "texaserick" or some variation on ebay for about $50 if you can't reshim it correctly. It will come with new shims, and you'll have a brand new clutch - always a good thing.
38SHO
#1 Oil Abuser
ok ok first off your going about this all wrong
there are two or three things you MUST do first
take a visual inspection of the compressor clutch, is it dettached, broken, or does it have a lot of rubber appearing stuff sticking out of it? any of these things 95% means your clutch is a goner, usually cleaning up the pulley face and installing new currectly gapped clutch will fix this problem... sometimes the compressor could be seizing or binding which blew the clutch apart... on the clutch is a 12mm nut, take out battery, and tray... so you have better access... get a 1/4 in drive ratchet, short 1/4 in drive socket that is 12mm.... put it on tighten and see if you can turn that nut... it should spin on tighten mode and move the compressor so you can feel how it spins
if its locked up or binding really bad... keep in mind it does compress though... you need a new compressor
if all this clears you need to check for power at the compressor, on the pax side front area is a electrical plug into the compressor, its the only one on it... make sure those wires are grounded/have power when there is a signal to have the air conditioning on... EATC on max cold 60 degrees high dan speed....... if theres no power, the compressor isn't getting a signal to activate....
now there a couple ways around this, take a paper clip.... keep on working by the compressor to the passenger side on the front area is a canister kinda like as thick as a redbull can... this is on a line comming off the compressor, there is a connector on top of it with a sensor... take off connector, install paper clip on connector to jump those wires together..... now go back inside car, turn on engine.... turn on a/c... and see if your compressor comes on... if it does that switch is bad, replace..........
if your getting power to the compressor now and the compressor still doesn't turn on and your sure the clutch is still attached and compressor not seized, more then likely you need a new coil for it... otherwords better just get a new compressor
I don't really know where the other power source is for the a/c after that pressure switch, I do know however that it does end up in the CCRM.... I haven't had to go this far into diagnostic procedures yet on my SHO
***also hawkeye you don't need to remove that snap ring to reshim... the clutch comes off with the 12mm nut and the shims are on the shaft inside the pulley that the 12mm nut goes onto.... they are like tiny lil washers.... you can keep that snap ring in place and still do this job on the car.... that snap-ring is a major bitch
there are two or three things you MUST do first
take a visual inspection of the compressor clutch, is it dettached, broken, or does it have a lot of rubber appearing stuff sticking out of it? any of these things 95% means your clutch is a goner, usually cleaning up the pulley face and installing new currectly gapped clutch will fix this problem... sometimes the compressor could be seizing or binding which blew the clutch apart... on the clutch is a 12mm nut, take out battery, and tray... so you have better access... get a 1/4 in drive ratchet, short 1/4 in drive socket that is 12mm.... put it on tighten and see if you can turn that nut... it should spin on tighten mode and move the compressor so you can feel how it spins
if its locked up or binding really bad... keep in mind it does compress though... you need a new compressor
if all this clears you need to check for power at the compressor, on the pax side front area is a electrical plug into the compressor, its the only one on it... make sure those wires are grounded/have power when there is a signal to have the air conditioning on... EATC on max cold 60 degrees high dan speed....... if theres no power, the compressor isn't getting a signal to activate....
now there a couple ways around this, take a paper clip.... keep on working by the compressor to the passenger side on the front area is a canister kinda like as thick as a redbull can... this is on a line comming off the compressor, there is a connector on top of it with a sensor... take off connector, install paper clip on connector to jump those wires together..... now go back inside car, turn on engine.... turn on a/c... and see if your compressor comes on... if it does that switch is bad, replace..........
if your getting power to the compressor now and the compressor still doesn't turn on and your sure the clutch is still attached and compressor not seized, more then likely you need a new coil for it... otherwords better just get a new compressor
I don't really know where the other power source is for the a/c after that pressure switch, I do know however that it does end up in the CCRM.... I haven't had to go this far into diagnostic procedures yet on my SHO
***also hawkeye you don't need to remove that snap ring to reshim... the clutch comes off with the 12mm nut and the shims are on the shaft inside the pulley that the 12mm nut goes onto.... they are like tiny lil washers.... you can keep that snap ring in place and still do this job on the car.... that snap-ring is a major bitch
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stangeater
Farm Boy
Negative Turbo....
The blend door has nothing to do with the fact that the compressor is not kicking on...
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