New to the V8's - Questions are here!

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SHO power

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Hey all,

This is my 3rd SHO, first of the GEN 3 variety. I picked it up for a grand with 123K miles. First off - The car shifts nice and strong. This is good. The car stops quickly. This is good. The car doesnt makes noises when turning and the suspensions feels firm. This is good.

Now..

The bad :

Rust - Missing Pass side rear ground effect. it's white, anyone have one :) ?

Service engine soon light is on. I tried my ***-COM Generic ODB2 reader but it wont talk. Suggestions?

I want to start fresh so I am thinking plugs, (wires/coils?), fuel injectors cleaner, oil change, air filter check. The norm.

Any write ups on the plugs replacement? I'm sure its a PITA.

I'm not sure if the cams are welded.

The cars has an aftermarket exhaust - sounds ok, but it's rattles and im sure its rusted thru. If it is, muffler suggestions? Should I delete that 3rd cat if its still there?

Wheel bearings? The car humms LOUD. I am assuming its multiple wheel bearings. This typical on the gen 3's?

Thats all I have for now. It's a bit of a beast, it's needs some immediate TLC which I'll provide. Any other suggestions?
 

rubydist

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First thing! - pull off the front valve cover and verify that the cams are welded - if not do it now!

Humming could be due to bad tire wear - especially the rears will wear funny and make noise if the rear suspension has any toe-out at all. Start by checking the tire wear.
 

Izzmo

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"Service engine soon light is on. I tried my ***-COM Generic ODB2 reader but it wont talk. Suggestions?"

I would go into AutoZone and see if there's will bring up any codes.

Coils are around $70-100 (depending on where you get them and what type). So, I wouldn't replace this unless you really want to drop that wad of cash.

Plugs, sure! make sure you gap them :p

Exhuast- I have Flowmaster 40's and they sound amazing. sound great with 3rd cat in place or out.

Go to v8sho.com for directions on how to remove the intake to get to the rear coils/plugs. It's not too bad unless you have big hands!

I would definitely suggest you clean the intake while you have it off too. Depending on the previous owner(s) it probably hasn't been cleaned on the gen3's love a good cleaning.

Also, if you want some power with a (decently) simple fix you can wire open your secondaries (or take them out completely).
 

SHO power

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I would go into AutoZone and see if there's will bring up any codes.

Code P1414 emissions

Coils are around $70-100 (depending on where you get them and what type). So, I wouldn't replace this unless you really want to drop that wad of cash.

Plugs, sure! make sure you gap them :p

Got motorcrafts - What gap is optimal/


Go to v8sho.com for directions on how to remove the intake to get to the rear coils/plugs. It's not too bad unless you have big hands!

Link?

I would definitely suggest you clean the intake while you have it off too. Depending on the previous owner(s) it probably hasn't been cleaned on the gen3's love a good cleaning.

Steps?

Also, if you want some power with a (decently) simple fix you can wire open your secondaries (or take them out completely).

Sounds good - how?

I also got the tranny flushed today. For piece of mind and and oil change. Trying to help it out :thankyou:
 

mustangracer91

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I would HIGHLY suggest you stop driving it until you pull that valve cover and confirm the cams are welded...if they aren't do not pass go, do not collect 200 dollars, go directly to kirk's as fast as a tow truck can take ya. Mine died in the driveway w/no warning...been sitting ever since too...at least I got to drive it for a week.
 

Izzmo

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Answers

Sounds good - how?

I also got the tranny flushed today. For piece of mind and and oil change. Trying to help it out :thankyou:

Spark plug gap: .042" - .046" is what is listed in the owners manual. See page 181 of the 1998 manual.

How to take off manifold: http://www.v8sho.com/SHO/intakemanifold.html
There are also many topics on these forums about it as well.

As for cleaning the intake, once you have it all off, just take some brake cleaner and start scrubbing!

Just a forenote, once you get in there you may realize your secondary butterflies are stuck open. These means there is a lot of carbon build-up and should clean it out really good from the UIM to LIM.
 

SHO power

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Sounds great. I will get on this tonight.

I was poking around the engine bay and noticed that the silencer cone was still installed. I couldnt have that. I pulled the connecting tube, went for a spin. Nice difference!

I'll gap them up and get them installed ASAP.

I'll also clean the **** outta the intake once off.

I washed it tonight - ill take a few pictures.

I found some serious rust on my mufflers and undercarriage. Nothing I havent seen before, but it looks like this car hasnt seem to many garages.

Ohh well. I seriously think I need 2 wheel bearings up front, the car just bellows at about 30 its come and goes with speeds. Any recommened shops for this? I'm basically in Lowell MA, not sure if any one can recommend a SHO shop that will do me right.

As for this P1414 code I'm not sure where to start.

Thanks All!
 

rubydist

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DTC P1414 indicates electric AIR pump commanded off, but PCM indicates electric AIR pump is on.

Possible Causes:

-- Open EAIR circuit.

-- Open AIR pump ground.

-- EAIR circuit short to power.

-- Damaged AIR pump.

-- Damaged solid state relay.

-- Damaged PCM.

l Disconnect solid state relay.

l Install breakout box, leave PCM disconnected.

l Disconnect electric AIR pump.

l Measure resistance of EAIR monitor circuit between PCM test pin 5 and electric AIR pump harness connector.

l Is resistance less than 5 ohms?

Yes
GO to «HM26».

No
REPAIR open circuit. COMPLETE PCM Reset to clear DTCs. RESTORE vehicle. RERUN «Quick Test».



HM26 CHECK ELECTRIC AIR PUMP FOR OPEN

l Measure electric AIR pump resistance.

l Is resistance between 0.5-5.0 ohms?

Yes
GO to «HM27».

No
REPLACE electric AIR pump. COMPLETE PCM Reset to clear DTCs. RESTORE vehicle. RERUN «Quick Test».


HM27 CHECK EAIR MONITOR CIRCUIT FOR SHORT TO POWER IN HARNESS

l Key on.

l Measure voltage between PCM test pin 5 and chassis ground.

l Key off.

l Was voltage greater than 10.5 volts?

Yes
REPAIR short circuit. COMPLETE PCM Reset to clear DTCs. RESTORE vehicle. RERUN «Quick Test».

No
EAIR Monitor circuit is OK. GO to «HM28».

Hope that helps.
 
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SHO power

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Helps - To an extent. I'm not sure where to start. I have fixed my secondary air on my GTI. However it doesn't look at all like this motor :laugh_ti:

I'll try to dig around.

Anyone have Kirks contact info?
 

SHO power

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Ok - I guess the SAI resided in the pass side wheel well. There is a solid state relay that mounts to its side and I guess it's prone to failure.

Where can I find a replacement? Any used parts or ford parts websites I can get this?

Sorry for the continued questions - like I said this is my first Gen 3.

Gen 1's & 2's sure.. Audi 1.8t's/2.7t's no problem.. I'll do anything. These are a different beast however.
:nut:
 

SHOZ123

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It is on the subframe just below the battery. Usually the relay goes to ***. You can use a HD 40A relay and rewire thngs or get one from Ford for the big bucks.
 

ThatShoGuy

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he is gonna invest all his money in other things and let it blow up like me.. but when mine happen i was clueless about cam failure.
 

Izzmo

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lol... it could happen.

I drove my last SHO for a almost 6 month before a rolled it and it was not welded either and it drove and performed fine.

Needle in a haystack sometimes.
 

ThatShoGuy

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lol... it could happen.

I drove my last SHO for a almost 6 month before a rolled it and it was not welded either and it drove and performed fine.

Needle in a haystack sometimes.

you rolled a sho..... wow. :swing:
 
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