New Noise

[Dr.Evil]

Well I found and fixed that last bad noise, not that it is back together, it is making a new noise. Sounds like it is comming from the middle of the motor. I remember hearing something similar to this on my old motor, just not as loud.

I did drop one of the injectors. Could it be an injector(s)? The noise goes away at idle, but I can hear it as RPM's pick up.

Here is a vid:

http://wilder.ws/newsound.mpg

I need to drive this tomorrow. Should it be okay? Also, does anyone have a set of rebuilt injectors for sale?

 

[AutoSHO]

That noise sounds a lot like the timing belt rubbing the timing covers. Are you sure its coming from the center of the motor?

 

[Dr.Evil]

No Im not sure, but it sounded like it. I guess the loose tensioner sounded like the middle of the motor also.
I am sure I torqued the tensioner right this time. Ill take the top cover off and see if it goes away.

 

[revhardSHO]

Could also be water pump bearings. The metal coolant pipe that sits in the block valley could be carrying the noise over to the injector area.

 

[Dr.Evil]

Could also be water pump bearings. The metal coolant pipe that sits in the block valley could be carrying the noise over to the injector area.

Its brand new.

Its not the timing belt hitting the cover. All of the injectors sound the same w/ the scope. I can't pinpoint where it is comming from. Any other ideas?

 

[revhardSHO]

Its brand new.

Its not the timing belt hitting the cover. All of the injectors sound the same w/ the scope. I can't pinpoint where it is comming from. Any other ideas?

Other than putting your old motor back in, no.
Have you pulled the upper timing belt cover yet?

 

[Dr.Evil]

Other than putting your old motor back in, no.
Have you pulled the upper timing belt cover yet?

Just did, noise did not change. It does not sound like valve train noise, although it could be. Just sounds like it is comming from the middle of the motor.

Just a thought, When checking the torque on the cam caps, one striped at 10LBS. It only turned half a turn, so I figured it was okay to leave it. The bolt was not loose at all. Still tight, I could just tell the threads stripped. The first four times this happened when I was assebling it, I was able to drill and helicoil it. I dont think that would be possiable with the motor in the car.

 

[Dr.Evil]

After closer inspection, I found the timing belt to be loose.

I re-did the tensioner, and it is still loose.

How do you properly set the tension? How do you set the spring tension so it presses firmly on the belt?

 

[AutoSHO]

The spring should be wound such that when you use an allen wrench and rotate the tensioner clockwise, it starts adding tension. You should turn it with an allen wrench until the smallest distance faces the belt (ie. the hex for the allen is as far from teh belt as it can get), and then install the belt. then release the nut on the tensioner (with all the timing marks lined up).

 

[Dr.Evil]

The spring should be wound such that when you use an allen wrench and rotate the tensioner clockwise, it starts adding tension. You should turn it with an allen wrench until the smallest distance faces the belt (ie. the hex for the allen is as far from teh belt as it can get), and then install the belt. then release the nut on the tensioner (with all the timing marks lined up).

Release the nut and leave it? don't torque it back down once tension is on the belt? That is what I did originally and it loosened it self all the way off. The stud came with the nut. Is the stud supposed to be removable, or just the nut?