New IRCM/CCRM

[mrgrim333]

So after a huge headache I've come to the conclusion that I need a new IRCM/CCRM.

So there's a couple of places I can get it.
1: Advance Auto Parts, for $150 with a 1 year warranty.
It's a BWD, never heard of them so I'm not sure the quality and TRUE compatibility with the power of my sho.

2: SHO Source. $85 + shipping for a used, no warranty CCRM strait from an sho.

What sounds like the right move?

 

[95GOOSE]

I'd go with SHOSource. They have an excellent reputation. They wouldn't sell you something that wasn't good. I've dealt with them in the past, and have been very satisfied.

Bill

 

[Vnuk1]

Well it depends on how much you want to spend? The SHO Source unit is cheaper with no warranty but has been inspected and tested and will work 100%. And the AAP is 150 with a 1 Year warranty but is an unknown brand and of unknown quality. Personally I would go with SHO source but thats just me.

 

[shopartsnw]

Thank you for the kind words. I can say that the only "new" aftermarket CCRMs I have seen are the J code style that fit the ATX cars. If you need an MTX CCRM, you are left with only used options. We do test all our CCRMs and they come from salt free cars, so they do not have the corrosion problems you might see on a salt belt car.

Mike

 

[hawkeye18]

Have you tried beating the ICRM? It's just a bunch of relays in there, and they get sticky... whacking the ICRM against a hard flat surface a few times ("having a conversation with it") often helps.

But if you really need a new one, I'd go with SHOSource.

 

[mrgrim333]

Well got my new ccrm. Still nothing. My car is still ******. No power to the fuel pump. Brand new fuel pump and a new ccrm. ARRRHHHHHH!!!!
Any ideas?

 

[luigisho]

Trace the power and find out where it gets interrupted. You check the inertia switch in the trunk?

 

[mrgrim333]

Here's the forum for full details...
http://www.shoforum.com/showthread.php?t=95763

I checked the inertia both with an amp meter and replaced it for good measure.
When I turn the key, it get's 12v right off the bat, then drops.

 

[RAYJAY]

Well got my new ccrm. Still nothing. My car is still ******. No power to the fuel pump. Brand new fuel pump and a new ccrm. ARRRHHHHHH!!!!
Any ideas?

check the fuse panel under the hood #3 fuse the big green one's e.e.c relay see if its blown if it is you have a short in the wire harness

Jeff

 

[shopartsnw]

If you know you have 12V to the inertia switch and you have a new fuel pump, I am guessing the electrical connector on the top of the fuel tank is broken. Push on the connector when you have power going to the fuel pump to see if the fuel pump starts.

Mike

 

[mrgrim333]

check the fuse panel under the hood #3 fuse the big green one's e.e.c relay see if its blown if it is you have a short in the wire harness

Jeff

Under the hood? Where's about?

 

[mrgrim333]

If you know you have 12V to the inertia switch and you have a new fuel pump, I am guessing the electrical connector on the top of the fuel tank is broken. Push on the connector when you have power going to the fuel pump to see if the fuel pump starts.

Mike

I'll try this too... Just gotta drop the tank... again...

 

[RAYJAY]

Under the hood? Where's about?

driver side up by the windshild box says power distribution box

 

[shopartsnw]

I'll try this too... Just gotta drop the tank... again...

Look at the sticky on how to cut an access hole under the rear seat.

http://www.shoforum.com/showthread.php?t=86180

You need to be careful, but I have done it probably 10-15 times without an issue. Do not use a dremel or cut of saw. I recommend a $15 air chisel, a standard cold chisel and hammer or a set of big tin snips an hulk strength hands. You have to be careful not to damage the fuel lines, and you don't want to make sparks, but the floor pan cuts remarkably easy with a sharp chisel. With a hole you can wiggle the connection to see if the fuel pump starts.

Mike

 

[St Louis SHO]

Just read this thread and cannot believe nobody said to see if the inertia switch was tripped......

 

[cetroutt]

Just read this thread and cannot believe nobody said to see if the inertia switch was tripped......

X's 2

 

[hawkeye18]

Do not use a dremel or cut of saw.

Out of curiosity, why? I have used a dremel twice for this procedure and have had absolutely no issues. I can understand being worried about sparks... but the cutoff wheels on a dremel are not big enough to cut the fuel lines even if you were trying.

 

[projectSHO89]

It's a BWD, never heard of them so I'm not sure the quality and TRUE compatibility with the power of my sho.

BWD=BorgWarner is one of the largest manufacturers in the world of both OEM and aftermarket automotive parts. They can trace their corporate history back to 1880.

They would be one of the LAST manufacturers I'd suspect of either quality or compatibility issues.

All I can say after reviewing the other thread is that YOU DO NOT FOLLOW DIRECTIONS and you don't report your results so they can be analyzed to give you an accurate diagnosis. You will need to correct this and quit guessing.

Steve

 

[shopartsnw]

Out of curiosity, why? I have used a dremel twice for this procedure and have had absolutely no issues. I can understand being worried about sparks... but the cutoff wheels on a dremel are not big enough to cut the fuel lines even if you were trying.

I am concerned about a dremel because it is more likely to generate sparks (albeit very little sparks). Also, I have had a number of installs where the fuel lines were pressing against the metal to be cut. The only reason I did not cut them was because I was using an air chisel and I was able to see the lines and push them out of the way.

I agree a dremel would give a cleaner cut, but I am worried about the laws of averages since I have seen multiple cases of the plastic lines rubbing and pressing against the steel to be cut.

Just my $.02

Mike

 

[mrgrim333]

Just read this thread and cannot believe nobody said to see if the inertia switch was tripped......

lol, I've already known the woes of a tripped inertia switch. It's not that. 100%. I replaced the switch, tripped the switch, power tested the switch... long story short, it's TOTALLY not the switch.