neewb with some questions...

[techi14]

Hello, I recently acquired a 92 sho mtx. I am located near Rockford Ill. It needs a clutch. Bought one from Rockauto and it came with a valeo pp. I heard that the pp had problems where the fingers would break. The car is going to be mostly stock for a while, and will be broken in properly. Should I be worried? Its going to be mated to a fidanza as well.

I am also going to upgrade to the asfb from shosource, and will perform the recall. But I was wondering some people were saying that the subframe breaks at the strut rod connecting area. Should I get this looked at while the frame is out or is this something that can be done with the subframe on the car?

Lastly I think the car has somewhere around 150-160k on it, the motor sounds good, except for a leak at the y pipe, I already ordered the magnaflow from shosource as well, but my concern is doing the rod bearings. Not really a concern but, if I can find a nice 3.2 and do a 60k on it, rod bearings, intake porting, cams, and any other preventive maint on it on the side, I rather do that than waste money on this 3.0, which maint is unknown. So is it hard to find a 3.2? I know the differences that are involved in this swap, So mainly my idea is leave this motor stock, betcha it needs that 60k bad, I don't even want to look at the plugs, because I am almost positive there is going to be oil there. Plan: find a 3.2 prep it on the side, and hopefully have the 3.0 last me till the 3.2 is ready. Feasible?

Another question, is it hard to replace the shifter bushings? Seen some poly on ebay that look nice. Think a member here was selling them there.

lastly, what type of fluid is recommended for the trans? Redline synthetic any good?

Sry for the many questions but, I am looking to get the car running within a week, since my cbr is down and i need something to get to work in. As a note, I am not new to cars, in fact have had and modded: 94 Mark VIII, 91 MX6 turbo, 91 Civic Hatch, 92 Civic Sedan, both had swaps to b series, a couple of mitsus, etc. Very mechanically inclined. These shos always managed to get my attention and I got the opportunity to get a decent one cheap so, I am pretty happy that there is some decent support for these cars and a nice active forum full of helping people like this one. thanks

 

[johndallara]

SHO issues

glad to have another new SHO fan. Plenty of room in the nuthouse for a few more of us.

don't know about your clutch question. for the ASFB, you are right to do the recall, new bolts also, etc. front can be difficult if you don't have access to the inside mounting portion of the subframe. As far as the front tension strut rod goes, the front subframe connector there can rust and get loose. however, there is a repair kit for it that will fix the problem.

it has been said that the 3.2 swap is a great mod with the increase in torque for the MTX. however ... I think in your shoes I would do the basic maintenance on the 3.0 that you have -- plugs, wires, clean intake, injector cleaner, top 60k with shim adjustment, full front 60k with new timing belt -- and you may find that the engine is in good shape. that way you can take your time finding a 3.2 you like and prepping it for install. The maint on the 3.0 won't take long. if you do a swap, you may be looking at putting the car out of commission for a long time.

don't know about the shifter bushings. used Dexron III for the last tranny fluid change on the 95 MTX. haven't broken it yet.

an unbelievable amount of info on this forum via the search tool.

JD

 

[techi14]

got a chance to drive the car today before tearing it apart, and the motor seems real strong, so I will possibly be doing the bearings while the clutch is being put in and a 60k in the near future. The car needs suspension real bad, so that is going to be a priority before the 60k. Thanks for the response looking forward to contribute on the forum.

 

[itwonder]

Valeo PP is fine. A stock flywheel is fine. A ceramic TOB from shonutperformance is recommended. Rod bearings at same time as clutch job is a great idea because there is lots more room to work with the subframe out of the way. Also, sway bar bushings and strut rod bushings easier to do. Good time to weld strut rod cups.

 

[Brett]

Valeo PP is fine. A stock flywheel is fine. A ceramic TOB from shonutperformance is recommended. Rod bearings at same time as clutch job is a great idea because there is lots more room to work with the subframe out of the way. Also, sway bar bushings and strut rod bushings easier to do. Good time to weld strut rod cups.

You'd do well to take this mans advice. Rod bearings are cheap and the insurance they provide are HUGE.

 

[techi14]

Good time to weld strut rod cups.

this is what I was confused about. Where is it that you weld it at? Do you need new metal pieces>?

 

[LeddZepp8687]

this is what I was confused about. Where is it that you weld it at? Do you need new metal pieces>?

You need to weld the cup where it meets the subframe... Where the strut rod comes through the frontal area of the subframe.. There are pictures somewhere on the boards, I have seen them and have repaired a strut rod cup before.. It is quite easy actually.

From IL I see...You should visit SHOcago.com as well.

 

[matasho]

i think he sold his sho

 

[bottonic]

 

[itwonder]

With the subframe out of the car, that is the perfect time to replace the strut rod bushings, weld the cup, and replace the sway bar mounting bushings. Take advantage of the opportunity to clean and paint the subframe. This is also a great time to reinforce the motor mounts. Be sure to replace the rear main oil seal when doing the clutch.

 

[matasho]

whats so funny?

 

[Joe_SHO]

You guys are providing him with answers a YEAR after he asked the questions! lol.

 

[itwonder]

I hate it when that happens! lol.