Need to replace vs. should replace at 60K

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JohnW63

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Since I have about 120K on my 95, and as I mentioned in a related post, my front main may be starting to leak, I thought I'd find out what all needs to be done vs. what is just a good idea.

For instance, how often DOES the crank position sensor go out ? At $100+ , you hope it worked a long time. If it rarely if ever fails, I don't see spending that much $$$ for a " while you in there anyway..." part.

Timing belt. Sure.
Water pump. Could get rusty and noisey. Sure.
Main seal. That's why I'm in there. Sure.

For those 3 things I'm looking at $200 in parts, right ?

What's the group concensus ?

JohnW63
 

Mr Anonymous

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CPS: $42.99 (AutoZone/AutoZone.com)
Water Pump: $32.99/MTX $52.97/ATX (RockAuto.com)
Timing Belt: $34.73 (RockAuto.com)
Front Main Seal: $5.88 (RockAuto.com)

Total: $116.59/MTX $136.57/ATX (Not including shipping, taxes, or core charges)

CPS longevity is probably one of the hardest things on the SHO to pin down. Mine went out at 85K, others have lasted 120K+. It's one of those "if you're in there you might as well replace it" items. For the $42.99 Wells version, it's cheap insurance against breaking down at the worse possible time. The timing belt and water pump are also good "might as well" items. The bottom line being for a little over $100 in parts and 4-6 hours labor, you shouldn't have to attend to that part of the engine for another 60-100K.
 

KazMan

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my car ahd the original cps at 140k with coolant leaking on it for at least 10k..i dont really think its a matter of coolant on these that makes them go bad...i think if ones goes bad..its just a bad apple in the bunch.

but im no expert.
 

luigisho

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SHOooo is correct. About $120 for the front end 60k in parts. Not sure if you've gone in there yet but I'd recommend getting it all done in one shot. The first time in there will take a good amount of time, and you'll be thankful that you don't have to do it again very soon. For practical purposes it's almost exactly the same labor.

The CPS is one of the most common parts to fail in these cars and can leave you stranded at the most inconvenient time.
 

sdpatt

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NOTE: I just bought the Wells SU242 CPS at AutoZone for $34.99. Try this listing of services, parts and recommended replacement intervals. If a part was replaced at the first 60K service and I specify a 120K replacement interval, that means I think it should be good until the 180K service. Search Key: 60K parts and recommended replacement intervals

NOTE: The prices for these parts change frequently. Check the sources to determine the latest prices.

I. Top End Engine Work
1) Valve gap check/adjustment of all 24 shims - 60K
2) Spark plugs - 60K
...Motorcraft AGSP32PP (6 ea.), O'Reilly $3.79 ea., FordPartsNetwork.com (FPN) $3.99 ea.
3) Plug wires - 3.0L: 120K, 3.2L: 100K
...3.0L Motorcraft WR-4033, FPN $83.98 (will fit the 3.2L)
4) Valve cover & plug well seals - 120K
...Fel-Pro VS50378R, AutoZone.com $71.99
5) Intake manifold gaskets - 120K
...(required only if black finish is chipped)
...Motorcraft E9DZ-9439-A (2 ea.), FordPartsOnline.com (FPO) $12.14 ea., FPN $12.49 ea.
6) Thermostat - only when not functioning correctly
...Motorcraft RT-1112, FPN $19.99, FPO $17.77
7) Oxygen sensors - 60K
...3.0L Bosch 13942 (2 ea.), AutoZone $38.99 ea.
...3.2L Bosch 13223 or 15716 (2 ea.), AutoZone $49.00 ea.

II. Front End Engine Work
1) Timing belt - 3.0L: 60K, 3.2L: 100K
...3.0L & 3.2L Gates T248, RockAuto.com $34.77
2) Accessory belt(s) - 3.0L: 60K, 3.2L: 100K
...3.0L PS-WP, Gates K040500, RockAuto.com $11.87
...3.0L A/C-Alt, Gates K060445, RockAuto.com $12.90
...3.2L Gates K060854, RockAuto.com $22.55
3) Water Pump - 120K
...(remanufactured-lifetime warranty)
...3.0L A1 Cardone 57-1373, O’Reilly Auto Parts $61.45
...3.0L A1 Cardone 57-1373, RockAuto.com $49.99 (warranty?)
...3.2L A1 Cardone 57-1458, O’Reilly Auto Parts $67.99
4) Water pump gasket set - only if desired, not usually required
...Fel-Pro ES70425, RockAuto.com $4.88
5) Lower radiator hose - only if desired, not usually required
...Motorcraft, FPO $12.87
6) Crankshaft position sensor - 3.0L: 60K or 120K, 3.2L: 100K
...Wells SU242, AutoZone/AutoZone.com $34.99
7) Front main crankshaft oil seal - 3.0L: 60K, 3.2L: 100K
...National 710220, RockAuto.com $6.26, O’Reilly $7.99

With the lifetime warranty on parts such as the water pump, I let them go until they leak. Otherwise, you would have to buy them each service and basically forfeit the warranty. Since your water pump is original and has no warranty I would replace it with a remanufactured unit that does have new seals, bearings and warranty.

I recommend replacing only the lower radiator hose since it is easily accessible during the timing belt job and its failure can quickly void the cooling system of its inventory. Because I provide the labor, I personally wait until parts like that fail before replacing them.

That goes for the thermostat too. Since you can reach it just as easily by loosening the intake tube hose clamp at the throttle body and the two air cleaner lid clips and removing the cleaner lid and intake hose, I would wait until it fails before replacing it. It could last for years and the most common mode of failure is that it doesn't full close, rather than sticking closed. It just makes the engine slow to warm to the normal range or prevent it. Neither is immediately hazardous to the engine.

The crankshaft position sensor has shown the ability to last longer than 60K miles and usually more than 100K miles. Since I do all of my own work, I wait until it fails before I replace it just to save money. At your mileage, I would definitely replace it. It certainly saves the effort later. My OEM unit lasted 180,000 miles.

My OEM CID (cam) sensor is still going strong. After seeing a new one, I can see why. It is rather robust and there are no moving parts and not much chance for any physical contact with the sensor wheel. The throttle position sensor is also a long life component and incredibly easy to replace. Only replace it when it fails.
 

JohnW63

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I have done the plugs, plug wires, valve cover gaskets with plug seals, and thermostat ( It was stuck open ). I've also replaced the MAF, due to some check engine codes.

Obviously, knowing where the best prices are changes my idea about what should be done. The timing belt prices vary a LOT. The CPS prices do too.

Now I just have to find a place that will do it.

JohnW63
 

Mr Anonymous

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JohnW63:
I have done the plugs, plug wires, valve cover gaskets with plug seals, and thermostat ( It was stuck open ). I've also replaced the MAF, due to some check engine codes.

Obviously, knowing where the best prices are changes my idea about what should be done. The timing belt prices vary a LOT. The CPS prices do too.

Now I just have to find a place that will do it.

JohnW63
There are some great tutorials in the Forum FAQ's and at Shotimes.com that detail the front-end 60K procedure, including pictures. If you did the top-end work yourself, then the front-end work shouldn't be any more difficult for you to do yourself IMHO.

FWIW, according to what I've seen on AutoZone's website, it appears that their stores are now stocking the CPS and CID sensors regularly instead of as a special order item. Also, RockAuto takes PayPal, so if you don't have a credit card but have PayPal you can still order from them. In any case, I believe the prices I quoted you above were the best prices you'll find on the parts.
 

projectSHO89

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FWIW, the timing belt is the reason for the scheduled front end service. Everything else is "while you're there" unless there is a specific failure.

The Ford recommended replacement interval for the belt is 60K for the MTX and 100K for the ATX. The difference in service life is due to the automatic tensioner used on the 3.2. The 3.0 uses a fixed tensioner.

Steve
 

cRaZySHO.

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I was going to chime in here, but Scott, you covered everything. Have you gotten any awards for being the most thourough 60k SHO mechanic? If not, you should.
 

sdpatt

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crazySHO88:
I was going to chime in here, but Scott, you covered everything. Have you gotten any awards for being the most thorough 60k SHO mechanic? If not, you should.
[In Elvis voice] Thank you. Thank you very much. Enough awards to help me make it through 11 months of unemployment.
 

rlw001

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unterhausen:
Wow, you just saved me over $100. Thanks for the post.
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batchman

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One other part to consider for preventive maintenance is the cam chain tensioner. At my 120k the front one had failed, now I have to pull the pan to make sure my oil screen isn't fouled. Good thing I wasn't very late with the 120k....

- Jeff
 

sdpatt

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The cam chain tensioners are not a normal maintenance item, but there have been a few cases of accelerated wear. They should be inspected during the valve gap adjustments that we are all doing at the required 60,000 mile intervals, right? Mine had only about 1/8" of wear when I checked them at the valve gap job at 225,000 miles (an early 240K job).
 

SHOBound

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how much wear should it have on it ? there is a good size groove cut into mine, but its not terrible or anything.
 

sdpatt

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If the belt touches the metal plate supporting the wear block there is too much wear. I have noticed that the translucent wear blocks on the later engines seem to wear much faster than the black wear blocks on the Gen I SHOs.

Below is a picture of the wear block on my engine at 269,000 miles. It looks as if she has another 269,000 miles to go (about half worn).

2004311957955975819751.jpg
 

Dr. Tweak

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Funny this subject should come up. I spent some time last night making a chart for what you should change at what time, it's on my site in the maintenance section.

Check it out and tell me what you think. thumb

*edit* Scott, none of your pics are working for me. I would like to see that pic of the wear block... frown

<small>[ March 01, 2004, 04:48 PM: Message edited by: JDLangevin ]</small>
 

SHOBound

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JD, your guides seem invaluable to a novice like me and we really appreciate what you do !! Thanks !
 

sdpatt

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I'm sorry about the red "x"s, but apparently PhotoIsland is having a little trouble lately. They have been rather inconsistent. Try visiting the PhotoIsland site by clicking here, entering the guest password "service" and selecting the "269K Valve Gapping" album. While in there you can look at the images of several of the services I have performed on my SHO and those of others. I still enjoy looking at the mechanical workings of the SHO engine.
 

haydenm315

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sdpatt:
I'm sorry about the red "x"s, but apparently PhotoIsland is having a little trouble lately.
It's ok... I know what you and your little daughter in the ferrari look like by now. Life looks good over there. I have a question regarding the part numbers for the o2 sensors. YOu said....
7) Oxygen sensors - 60K
...3.0L Bosch 13942 (2 ea.), AutoZone $38.99 ea.

The front and rear bank oxygen sensors are not the same. I'm about to replace my sensors and just wanted to make sure to put the same Bosch sensors for front and rear.
 

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