Need some experts on this one

[perlitaj]

94 MTX, 145,000. No start condition, drove like a champ, stopped for pizza then no spark. Towed home, looked on forum for info, looked like classic CKP symptoms (no rpm, no CEL, good fuel psi with starter cranking ok). No problem, I'll do the 120K and change out the CKP, belt, water pump and do upper at same time. Back together no problems. Still no spark, checked DIS and pulled it apart in the process, new one ordered and put in with cleaning and heat sink grease and new bolts. Ground checked okay to manifold. Did code check, (too late) came up with all okay probably due to work previously done with battery out. Used Ranger's check on CKP and other electronic controllers and found no output from CKP. Bad CKP? Grumble, grumble, kick cat.... Ordered from Auto Zone and put in yesterday as well as all camshaft seals so all was not wasted. Good CKP gap, and the cat watched me very closely to see if it wauld start. NO START again, the cat is gone never to be seen again and the kids and wife avoid me at all costs now. Still no spark, no RPM, and no CEL on cranking. HELP get my SHO and life back together and back to normal.

 

[Mr Anonymous]

You don't mention anywhere about reading your codes. Just because there isn't a CEL doesn't mean that DTC's haven't been stored. There are links to sites with instructions in my signature. It's also a good way to verify that the PCM has power and is working properly. If codes can't be read, it often indicates a PCM-related problem like a lack of power.

It seems like you have the CKP and DIS covered, the next step IIWM would be to verify that the CCRM is operating properly and that the PCM is getting power. Then I'd verify power to the coil pack, and all ground paths, especially DIS-to-chassis and the PCM ground. I'm suspecting a bad CCRM, or possibly a fusible link.

Let us know what you find!

 

[CosmoSHO]

Sounds like you put it back together correctly...
Are you getting a spark from the coil pack to the plugs?

Cosmo

 

[F-22 Raptor SHO]

First let me say "Welcome to the forum"

Second let me say, "wow you really used that search function well and hit alot of key points for a no start condidtion".

Im with Mr. A on this one....run your KOEO (key on engine off) codes and I think you will find out if there are any computer problems.

Did you gap the CPS correctly or just put it in?

 

[perlitaj]

Good CKP gap and the code that showed was 111. Lost codes in storage probably due to maintenance the first time around. Shouldn't it store new codes from a new no start condition? All I got was 111.

 

[perlitaj]

Also, the ignition fuse is good, strong CEL prior to cranking, tested good ground with DMM between Battery and manifold (for DIS).

 

[SHOketer422]

hmm

what about cam sensor? i kno that will give off a code if the car is running and it flakes out, but what if it hasnt gotten running at all? A KOEO test wouldn't be able to give data for the CID, cam sensor, because its just not for that test...no? you need it to synchronize cranking and fuel injection...dunno, but i replaced mine, along with my crank sensor, when my car had the exact same symptoms yours had...i was told on another forum that the no rpms was a sign of cam sensor failure, but i dunno if that was accurate or not...maybe try the cam sensor, i dont remember it being too pricey, and its really easy to replace, once you find it...its in a very obvious and not hard to see place, if i recall, which makes it hard to find, cause nothings supposed to be easy to find on this car....

 

[perlitaj]

Replaced it with the CKS so it's new.

 

[perlitaj]

Mr. Anon. What is a good way to check the CCRM since it didn't come up faulty with a code? I was thinking a fuseable link due to the way it was running (almost too good) and the way it quit. Is there a common area that most fuseable links are located and where? Help!

 

[AutoSHO]

When you turn the key to the "On" position, does the CEL illuminate?

 

[perlitaj]

Yes, normal illumination. Bright

 

[perlitaj]

Here was the deal. Once again I decided to tackle the problem after some more thought. I bought a 2004 Mercury Maruder so the SHO was put on the back burner. The DIS was bad from Ford and yes it was a new part. The car was running on two cylinders with no spark to the back four cylinders on the coil. So now it's either the wiring or the DIS since I have timed spark voltage for at least 2 cylinders. I bought a used DIS on ebay for a fraction of the cost and it fired right up on all 6 cylinders. What a *insert bad word here**insert bad word here**insert bad word here**insert bad word here**insert bad word here* this was.....due to a bad (expensive) OEM part. BTW the voltage problem from the 12v line (I think it's red and green striped) going across all the sensors still drops off when the key is put to start (see my other thread). It's a good 12v in run but is drained off somewhere prior to the ignition switch in run. I lost the wire somewhere in the alternator if I remember right on the wiring skematic. My fix is at the ignition switch with a toggle switch wired in to put 12v in the red/green striped wire manually during start then turning it off during run. I've been driving for two weeks now like this and no problems. I'll bet there are other SHO's out there that are being junked due to this same problem, just check at the DIS or CKPS for the 12v start voltage, not just run voltage. With this problem the car could be push started also. The Maruder is a blast but the SHO is still too fun to sell.

 

[projectSHO89]

I'd put my money on a failed ignition switch.

BTDT...


Steve

 

[stangeater]

My brother had the EXACT SAME THING HAPPEN and he replaced all the things that you have................turned out to be his computer was fried. Bought a computer off of ebay and WALA, worked great!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

 

[projectSHO89]

My brother had the EXACT SAME THING HAPPEN and he replaced all the things that you have................turned out to be his computer was fried. Bought a computer off of ebay and WALA, worked great!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

The computer does not supply power to the relevent circuits under question. The ignition switch does.

Steve

 

[perlitaj]

The computer was replaced with original fixes as well as the ccrm with both parts still in there and working. Ignition switch was replaced with a new one from advance auto parts later and still no "start" batt volts across the sensors via the red/green striped wire. Only in the run position. I'll get another one just to see but I believe it is drained off before the switch.

 

[naval-avi8or]

BTW the voltage problem from the 12v line (I think it's red and green striped) going across all the sensors still drops off when the key is put to start (see my other thread). It's a good 12v in run but is drained off somewhere prior to the ignition switch in run. I lost the wire somewhere in the alternator if I remember right on the wiring skematic. My fix is at the ignition switch with a toggle switch wired in to put 12v in the red/green striped wire manually during start then turning it off during run. I've been driving for two weeks now like this and no problems. I'll bet there are other SHO's out there that are being junked due to this same problem, just check at the DIS or CKPS for the 12v start voltage, not just run voltage. With this problem the car could be push started also. The Maruder is a blast but the SHO is still too fun to sell.

That wire is the VBAT feed to the CMP(cam sensor), CKP (Crank Sensor), ICM (Ignition Control Module), Noise capacitor and Coil pack. It terminates at all the items listed above without flowing back out.

It originates from the ignition switch and is 12v run/start. Then it runs thru the 10A Ign Coil fuse in the Engine compartment fuse panel and out to all the above items.

 

[Racer X]

perlitaj... does the car have or have evidence of ever having an aftermarket alarm system? It'd be an unorthodox way of doing it, but a starter interrupt relay inline with that power wire could cause these headaches.

 

[projectSHO89]

Repeating - Ignition switch - based on information provided.

If the RD/LG wire has power in RUN, but not START, the switch is open internally. The START/RUN pin is a common inside the switch.

Did I mention BTDT?????

FWIW, voltage cannot "drain off".

Steve

 

[perlitaj]

ProjectSHO,
Sorry about the terminology, "draining off." My bad. What does FWIW and BTDT mean? I replaced the switch with a new Ford switch to no avail. It's something prior to the switch because I jumper it at the switch right now. I last looked at a diagram years ago but I thought the VBAT for the Rd/Grn wire came from the alternator of starter. Either way, I'm happy because the beast is running fine now with my fix. I just wanted to let other members know of an odd problem that may cause a SHO owner to sell or junk his/her car.