Need some brake upgrade suggestions

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giddyup306

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Hey all,

Let me start off by saying that I have a 95. I'm working on a 3.6L srtoker and want to make sure my SHO can stop before I install it. From what I understand, if you go with certian rotors/calipers you will need 17" rims to clear them. I would like to keep the stock SHO rims if at all possible. I was looking at some Bear 2 piston calipers, some sort of slotted/cross drilled rotors (Quick Stop Pro...anyone hear of these?), and ceramic pads. What do you guys recomend for a combo? Also could someone please let me know that typical stopping numbers are for Stock SHOs vrs some aftermarket setups? One last question. If I decide it is impossible to keep 16" rims on the car you have to reprogram the PCM? Or is there a speedo gear?


Thanks

All imput will be appreciated!

Mike
 

DHMag

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as for the upgrade questions, all of your answers lie within the Search function, located on the top of this page on the right of center. as for changing wheel sizes, as long as aftermarket tire diameter equals or approximates the original tire size, nothing else is needed.
 

revhardSHO

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I believe shonut is working on a brake upgrade similar to that of the 96+ setup. It uses the 96 rotor and a cobra caliper with a custom bracket to mate the two. It will fit under the slicers IIRC.

For anything below supercharging I would think the simple 96 brake upgrade would be adiquate. If you have money there are bigger and better setups out there but for the cost and effectiveness the 96 brakes cannot be beat. Add stainless lines, PFC pads and you'll have some mad stopping power.
 

LOUDSHO92

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You have the 96 upgrade. There is also a 12.5 upgrade which can fit just unde rthe slicer. The largest usually is the 13in upgrade and requires a larger rim. So long as the outside diameter is the same you do not need to worry about the speedo. You can also upgrade the rear to 96 rotors as well.

The 3.6L stoker kit from SHOShop has not had much sucess for s/c aplications. It does okay N/A but it still may have problems. Also the rev limiter is usually reduced to 6.5k.
 

luigisho

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Cheak out the Sho Stopper Jr. kit from TCE. I think it uses Wilwood calipers and Todd has excellent products.
If you want the Baer 13" you will have to upsize the wheel. It is an excellent performer and I would recommend 13" brakes with ss hoses along with a good pad to anyone looking for a big improvement.
 

DHMag

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there are at least 3 SHOs in Texas(including mine) already running Cobra calipers on modified brackets under slicers. who knows how many other SHOs are out there with the same setup. so how much markup is SHONut looking to make on this ?

to modify the brackets, it took me all of 30 minutes per bracket. its a very simple task..****, i completed it in my garage on a bench vise without a bench.


smithsil said:
I believe shonut is working on a brake upgrade similar to that of the 96+ setup. It uses the 96 rotor and a cobra caliper with a custom bracket to mate the two. It will fit under the slicers IIRC.
 

giddyup306

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DHMag said:
there are at least 3 SHOs in Texas(including mine) already running Cobra calipers on modified brackets under slicers. who knows how many other SHOs are out there with the same setup. so how much markup is SHONut looking to make on this ?

to modify the brackets, it took me all of 30 minutes per bracket. its a very simple task..****, i completed it in my garage on a bench vise without a bench.


What did you all have to do to modify the brackets? I've decided to go with the PBR/Cobra calipers after all. Also if you could post some pics I'd appreciate it.


Also thanks everyone for the input.
 

Todd TCE

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I gotta say; if you're really that serious about this project you owe it to yourself to consider alternate wheels as well. I'll assume you're gonig for the 'sleeper look' maybe and want to keep it stock looking. But on the other hand alternate wheels do open up a world of opportunity for brakes. Not only can I (and others) provide you standard kits which may or may not fit slicers, but we can build more proper multi piston 1.10 or 1.25 rotor kits for better heat management. Much of this cannot be fit however inside the stock wheel. And I'm guessing that you can shave some weight off the package as well.
 

Yamaha V6

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Listen to Todd, he knows what he's talking about. :)

I have 17x8 wheels on my 91 supercharged, with his Wilwood BSL 4-piston brake setup. It's not an inexpensive brake kit, but it allows me to run about 8 feet off the a$$ end of a brand new Turbo Porsche 911 at 125+ mph down the straights on the track, and get the car stopped without ruining both of us.

There are affordable 17x7.5 & 17x8" wheels out there for the SHO in the <$1000 range, and those will allow you to run the 13" brakes. I know of certain 17x7" wheels that would also allow the 13" brakes, and that would drop your costs to about the $600 range.

keep us posted on the 3.6L.
 

giddyup306

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Todd TCE said:
I gotta say; if you're really that serious about this project you owe it to yourself to consider alternate wheels as well. I'll assume you're gonig for the 'sleeper look' maybe and want to keep it stock looking. But on the other hand alternate wheels do open up a world of opportunity for brakes. Not only can I (and others) provide you standard kits which may or may not fit slicers, but we can build more proper multi piston 1.10 or 1.25 rotor kits for better heat management. Much of this cannot be fit however inside the stock wheel. And I'm guessing that you can shave some weight off the package as well.

The sleeper look is exactly what I want. Here's the rims I would get if I went aftermarket. http://www.tirerack.com/upgrade_gar...toModel=Taurus+SHO&autoModClar=&autoYear=1995

Do you know if I can do a 1.10" or 1.25" with these?
 

giddyup306

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Yamaha V6 said:
Listen to Todd, he knows what he's talking about. :)

I have 17x8 wheels on my 91 supercharged, with his Wilwood BSL 4-piston brake setup. It's not an inexpensive brake kit, but it allows me to run about 8 feet off the a$$ end of a brand new Turbo Porsche 911 at 125+ mph down the straights on the track, and get the car stopped without ruining both of us.

There are affordable 17x7.5 & 17x8" wheels out there for the SHO in the <$1000 range, and those will allow you to run the 13" brakes. I know of certain 17x7" wheels that would also allow the 13" brakes, and that would drop your costs to about the $600 range.

keep us posted on the 3.6L.

From tirerack.com I couldn't find 18's. So I hope I can get 13" rotors under these rims (see above post).

THe 3.6 is slow going being that it is hard to find parts. Also my machinest is having problems with venders. He had to send back a bunch of stuff because he was told over the phone he would get the "premium custimer" price. When the invoice came it was a different story and he sent back all the stuff.

I'll keep ya posted when I get something done. It may be a while.
 

SHOkid13

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No matter what size brakes you decide to get, get some decent pads. We saw several cars at the track with smokey brakes (including 13" and PBR and Cobras). I have heard that the pads at Carbo Tech are pretty good, and I will be getting some Bobcats or Panthers soon as my brakes are toasted from the track. http://www.carbotecheng.com/prod-ct-compounds.htm

EDIT:
Has anyone used the Panther XP8 or Plus pads? Are they too noisy and dusty for the street? I saw their warning and I am curious...
 

Todd TCE

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There are 35 wheels to pick from. Am I supposed to pick for you?

I can work with you better at Discount Tire Direct for fit issues. Got an engineering contact there and we share brake fit data. Check to see if you see some wheels there that catch your eye. (and I'm a distributor for them)

Stick with the 1.10 rotor. You won't find much to fit over the 1.25 size.


*Enkei RS5, RS6, ATS Comp Lite, maybe a few others look pretty BBK friendly.
http://www.discounttiredirect.com/direct/home.jsp
 

SHOkid13

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Todd TCE said:
Stick with the 1.10 rotor. You won't find much to fit over the 1.25 size.

What is the difference between a 1.10 rotor and a 1.25 rotor? is that the thickness of the disc?
 

Todd TCE

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You're not going to ask why the wider ones won't work??

Ok, I'll tell you and save you the typing; the wider the rotor, the more width of the caliper to fit OVER it, that in turn places the outer body of a fixed caliper closer to the wheel spokes even more.

Fat hat/thin rotor
Med hat/med rotor
Thin hat/fat rotor

When combined the total height of each can equal the same so not to rub the ball joint. But the caliper moves outward more and more......
 

luigisho

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Todd,

Since this thread has your attention, and I couldn't get onto your website, what size wheel would be needed for a 14" setup? I came across a MT article with a monster Focus (450hp v-8 wheee!!) sporting these w/ 11.6" in the rear. Sounded interesting.
 

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