need real answers on upgrading brakes

[COliveira95]

Todd TCE:
Hence smaller pistons are likely in this set up so the bias is not as altered as would be the case with 'fronts' all the way around. Nice to see someone thougth this out.

My setup was completely thought out by myself and Josh T. over at SHO NUT Performance. Tom W. also has the same setup on his red 93. I love the stopping power and control of this car... I have the bias plugs and the brakes are balanced out quite well IMHO. I also agree with you on having larger calipers up front and smaller at the rear. Josh made the same comment.

 

[yamahaSHO]

SHOTIME:
drilled slotted rotors are for looks.

Drilled is for looks, slotted vents gas. With the new brake compound, the drilled rotors really do nothing but take away from surface area and they are prone to crack.

 

[shojuan]

yamahaSHO:

SHOTIME:
drilled slotted rotors are for looks.

Drilled is for looks, slotted vents gas. With the new brake compound, the drilled rotors really do nothing but take away from surface area and they are prone to crack.

And with modern brake linings there is no gas to vent. The slots ought to keep the pads from getting glazed by a constant scraping action though.

 

[shojuan]

COliveira95:

shojuan:
Those are 13" front and rear in that pic. The fronts are PBR 2-piston calipers and the rears are either front or rear calipers. I seem to remember them being the 96 fronts which would mean he has no e-brake.

Those are 92 rear calipers. The 92 rears fit the wider rotor and yes I have an ebrake.

Thanks for setting me straight.

Your brake setup is one of the nicest looking ones out there. thumb

 

[iselltonsofthings]

Sorry guys for ongoing ? but...

If I upgrade to the 96+ 11.6 front brakes, I will use the larger calipers.

If I upgrade to the 11.6 brakes in the rear, I will be using the same size rotors front and back but I will use the smaller calipers on the rear from one of my 89-92 parts cars.

By utilizing the smaller calipers out back, that is what gives me the correct proportion even though the rotors are the same diameter.

By the way, if I'm correct about the rear setup, can someone please explain if I can simply buy rotors from a 96 SHO at my local autozone. All I need to make the system fit is the special caliper brackets and the centering rings. I would much rather just buy those parts than a whole kit.

Anyone have those parts for sale? Maybe someone that upgraded beyond the 96 rears and now they have theirs for sale?

If you do, don't reply, just pm me. Thanks. Scott

 

[shojuan]

Mikey at midwestsho should be able to hook you up with what you want and answer all your questions.

 

[Machspeed]

shojuan:
Mikey at midwestsho should be able to hook you up with what you want and answer all your questions.

THats waht ive been tellin him. thumb

 

[yamahaSHO]

shojuan:

yamahaSHO:

SHOTIME:
drilled slotted rotors are for looks.

Drilled is for looks, slotted vents gas. With the new brake compound, the drilled rotors really do nothing but take away from surface area and they are prone to crack.

And with modern brake linings there is no gas to vent. The slots ought to keep the pads from getting glazed by a constant scraping action though.

Air still heats up under the pad... Hot air expands... Yes, there is still gas to vent!

 

[SHOTIME]

iselltonsofthings:
I would much rather just buy those parts than a whole kit.

THANK YOU! Most of you people are too reliant on kits.


With your 93 you will need to upgrade to 94- 95 knuckles and calipers from a junk yard. Any ABS taurus, SHO, or lincoln conti. The rear knuckles and calipers from your parts cars. Brackets and centering rings from a specialty shop. Also bias plugs. Youll have to buy the caliper brackets for a 96 SHO. and rotors for a 96 SHO. Same rotors for the rear. front pads for a 96-99 SHO, rear pads for a 90-92 SHO. You have the stainless steel lines, so throw in some synthetic fluid and you should be good for a darn long time. Again I say drilled and slotted for looks, but whatever.

With the knuckles all off id do new bearings.. remove the dust shields for better cooling, and paint. Also paint the caliper brackets and calipers. You can also do the strut drop while your in there and lower the car 3/4 an inch.

 

[iselltonsofthings]

SHOTIME:

iselltonsofthings:
I would much rather just buy those parts than a whole kit.

THANK YOU! Most of you people are too reliant on kits.


With your 93 you will need to upgrade to 94- 95 knuckles and calipers from a junk yard. Any ABS taurus, SHO, or lincoln conti. The rear knuckles and calipers from your parts cars. Brackets and centering rings from a specialty shop. Also bias plugs. Youll have to buy the caliper brackets for a 96 SHO. and rotors for a 96 SHO. Same rotors for the rear. front pads for a 96-99 SHO, rear pads for a 90-92 SHO. You have the stainless steel lines, so throw in some synthetic fluid and you should be good for a darn long time. Again I say drilled and slotted for looks, but whatever.

With the knuckles all off id do new bearings.. remove the dust shields for better cooling, and paint. Also paint the caliper brackets and calipers. You can also do the strut drop while your in there and lower the car 3/4 an inch.

WOW, now that is a post. Thank you kindly for the exacting details on what I need. That is one stop shopping for information. Sincerely, Scott