Mr Anonymous
Tire Wall
Ok, let's clear up some information here...
First, the mounting holes in the subframe are different thicknesses front and rear, and therefore the aluminum bushings should take this into account and have front and rear specific bushings.
Second, Gen III rear bushings are rubber and steel just like every other stock SFB, the difference is they were completely redesigned, and are directional. The center shafts and collars are elliptical, and there are tabs on the bushing to ensure correct alignment. When installing Gen III rear bushings on a Gen I or II, or in the front of a Gen III, you either need to notch the subframe (preferred) or remove the tabs from the bushings in order to get them to seat in the hole. As mentioned, with Gen III bushings, the conventional approach is to buy 4 sets of Gen III rear bushings, and install them on all four corners.
I would recommend going with 4 of the same style bushings, rather than 2 aluminum and 2 rubber.
First, the mounting holes in the subframe are different thicknesses front and rear, and therefore the aluminum bushings should take this into account and have front and rear specific bushings.
Second, Gen III rear bushings are rubber and steel just like every other stock SFB, the difference is they were completely redesigned, and are directional. The center shafts and collars are elliptical, and there are tabs on the bushing to ensure correct alignment. When installing Gen III rear bushings on a Gen I or II, or in the front of a Gen III, you either need to notch the subframe (preferred) or remove the tabs from the bushings in order to get them to seat in the hole. As mentioned, with Gen III bushings, the conventional approach is to buy 4 sets of Gen III rear bushings, and install them on all four corners.
I would recommend going with 4 of the same style bushings, rather than 2 aluminum and 2 rubber.
