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supersteve

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I am torn between doing a 3.2 swap or spending that money to do upgrades on my 3.0. I have to do a clutch either way. What do you guys think. what would be the best way to go to have the best performance. What do you guys think?
 

SHObill

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Stick with the 3.0 & put in a stock replacement clutch. Unless it threw a rod bearing or is leaking oil from every orifice, the .2 litre you gain is not worth the $$ or time. Do the rear main seal,axle seals & rod bearings while you do the clutch. Could also do a 'Y' pipe. Could also do spindles/strut assy/LCA same time as you will have the left side torn apart. THEN after she is running-the best all around MOD is Wheels & Tires.
 

supersteve

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it leaks oil like crazy from front and rear main seal. i did put 225 50's on my basketweaves in the beginning of winter. i was thinking of doing something to lighten the flywheel either aluminum or getting the one i have machined to make it lighter.
 

SHObill

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well the rear main will be done when you do the clutch so.....a comp frt 60K will solve the other side oil leak. A flywheel change will do nothing for a DD except make it harder to drive.
 

supersteve

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comp frt 60k? even the shosource 17lb steel flywheel wouldnt be worth it? the reason i was thinking a flywheel is because ill be right there anyway, everything else is accessible after the car is put back together.
 

Phoenix

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A 3.2 swap wont give you 20hp , so if you dont have the engine out or if your 3.0 is healthy , just keep the 3.0 in.

Y pipe and BBBs are a good start to begin with.
 

BlackonBlack89

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3.2 swap wont give you 20hp but it does give you 15+TQ. Which is well worth and very noticable. If your 3.0 is healthy and ur short on time just keep it.
 

LOUDSHO92

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I would get a 3.2 and rebuild it. That way you have a fresh motor going in and will last a lot longer.

The 17lb flywheel will rev a bit faster but it will still be very streetable. I have drive the 17lb, stock and 8lb and the 17lb was very streetable.
 

shobote

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It''s an every day car so keep the 3.0. First and forenost, do ALL of the maintenance, get a clutch and call it a day. If you have the extra bucks for the 17 lb. flywheel, sure, why not as it will help. all the effort involved into a 3.2 swap with such little to gain, and with an unkown engine, is not worth the trouble for a DD. Get a y-pipe if you don't already have one as it has to come off for the clutch work anyway, and you'll be at nearly the same place as a 3.2 swap powerwise.
 

AREA 91

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I am torn between doing a 3.2 swap or spending that money to do upgrades on my 3.0. I have to do a clutch either way. What do you guys think. what would be the best way to go to have the best performance. What do you guys think?

Just bring your car to me and I'll make all your dreams come true.:evilgrin:
 

supersteve

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i have to get it done in a weekend becuase it is my DD. The motor has 80k but hasnt been maintained very well. i know the previously owner was a friend of my brothers and beat the **** out of the car and didnt know how to drive stick very well. the motors going to get pulled along with the trans anyway thats why i was thinking of doing a 3.2 but if everyone thinks its to much work then iam going to keep the 3.0 which isnt a problem. Is the money for the 17lb flywheel justifiable or should i go with UDP and port the intake. As far as the exhaust go i wanted to do a true dual.
 

SHObill

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comp frt 60k?
complete front 60k = frt main,cam seals,WP,TB,CPS,CS,Assy belts

even the shosource 17lb steel flywheel wouldnt be worth it? the reason i was thinking a flywheel is because ill be right there anyway, everything else is accessible after the car is put back together.
-sure but cost is $35 to grind the stock FW & they prolly can lighten it also compared to cost of new lightened FW & the fact its a DD.
 

SHObill

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i have to get it done in a weekend because it is my DD. The motor has 80k but hasn't been maintained very well. i know the previously owner was a friend of my brothers and beat the **** out of the car and didn't know how to drive stick very well. the motors going to get pulled along with the trans anyway that's why i was thinking of doing a 3.2 but if everyone thinks its to much work then i am going to keep the 3.0 which isn't a problem. Is the money for the 17lb flywheel justifiable or should i go with UDP and port the intake. As far as the exhaust go i wanted to do a true dual.

--Why would you pull the motor???? esp if you only have a W/E!
80K = just broke in!! Where are all these oil leaks?
 

LOUDSHO92

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i have to get it done in a weekend becuase it is my DD. The motor has 80k but hasnt been maintained very well. i know the previously owner was a friend of my brothers and beat the **** out of the car and didnt know how to drive stick very well. the motors going to get pulled along with the trans anyway thats why i was thinking of doing a 3.2 but if everyone thinks its to much work then iam going to keep the 3.0 which isnt a problem. Is the money for the 17lb flywheel justifiable or should i go with UDP and port the intake. As far as the exhaust go i wanted to do a true dual.

The swap can be done in a weekend if some one knows what they are doing. If you find a 3.2 you can freshen it up on the stand and then swap it over the weekend.

A stock flywheel that has been lightened to 17lb my not be the most structurally sound.

I did like my 17lb when I had it.
 

supersteve

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wouldnt it be easier to drop both to do the clutch? front and rear main seals both leak. 1 qt of oil a week.
 

mustangracer91

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well, if durability is your worries, and you're that far into it, I'd imagine it wouldn't be that hard or time consuming to drop the oil pan and slap in a new set of bearings...Save the money from some custom flywheel to buy a quality clutch and pressure plate...not centerfarce...and do as some of the other board members, invest the saved money into replacing questionable worn components...sometimes the cheapest engine you own is the one that's already in the car.
 

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