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luigisho

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Yeah, neither. Go with a stock one or get the stocker in there turned if it's beat up.
If you're going to pull the motor I would do the 3.2 swap. As was stated, get one on a stand that you can freshen with bearings and seals-- and then drop it in on a free weekend. If that's too much, put new bearings in the 3.0 while the clutch is being done. Save your mod money for replacing all the other parts that are very old by now.
 

mustangracer91

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Shosource +1 cause it supports the community and isn't some huge radical step...it's an appropriate performance step for a stocker/dd.
 

LOUDSHO92

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any thoughts of the fidanza flywheel (12.5lb) over the shosource (17lb)

It will be a bit of a learning curve and not the best for DD.

I would recommend a stage1 clutch of some kind so you don't have the braking straps issue.
 
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cRaZySHO.

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Keep the 3.0L. Put in a clutch. Do the maintenance. Drive it everyday.

By a Mustang. Put in a 351W. Buy some slicks and juice. Blow the doors off every SHO :)

Best of both worlds! Trust me (look at my sig).
 

supersteve

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so seems like most people are saying do the 60k get a nice clutch and with he extra cash y-pipe and flywheel if there money. is the fidanza streetable?
 

BlackonBlack89

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Yes very streetable. I thought it would be diffucult too but its not. The difference is very minor. For example I let my friends, who barely knew how to drive manual, but I let them drive my car and if I never told them it had one they would have never known.
 

LOUDSHO92

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so seems like most people are saying do the 60k get a nice clutch and with he extra cash y-pipe and flywheel if there money. is the fidanza streetable?

For some, for others it may not be. I had fun trying to learn an aluminum flywheel. Also becareful of the dowl pins as they may not be the right height.

If you want an alumnium flywheel we do have one at SHO Source with the correct dowl pins and it is properly surfaced.
 

shobote

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WIth only 80k your motor has tons of life left; these motors are nearly indestructable outside of rod bearings, and unless the guy didn't change oil at timely intervals, they are probably fine. Luk is a good clutch for the price and for a DD; if you are going to beat on the car, look at an upgraded clutch like Soutbend.
 

supersteve

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LUK heavy duty clutch. does anyone know if its actually heavy duty or just the same thing different box and more money?
 

38SHO

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go with a 3.2, also my sho source 8lb flywheel is VERY streetable

the 3.2 is better at low range torque like driving around on the street when your not winding it out to redline it makes a difference......

and when your running it out to redline, it is faster too
 

mustangracer91

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if money didn't matter, and you had a great 3.2 sourced already, then I'd go with the 3.2 and swap the 3.0 cams over, slap a good SHOsource flywheel w/a good clutch set, and you're off to the races...but also as your motor is a low mileage example, I think you'd be hard pressed to find a 3.2 w/ the same or lower miles...
 

38SHO

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you also gotta consider is the 3.2 swap worth it, a lot of people say its not

it really depends on you, do you want more power without buying a lot of stupid stuff, like intakes, MAF's, bigger TB's...... this type of stuff can be debated all day if it really adds power or it just has a placebo effect....

adding more displacement tho, 100% makes more power

also you gotta think if its worth your time, are you the type of person who likes to pull motors, has the time, tools, and place to do that kind of work and let it sit there for a few days? or are you the type of person who is going to struggle just doing a brake job and don't even have a set of tools.... this might not be for you unless you have a lot of time on your hands and the SHO is not your DD

I had my car down for a week when I did the 3.2 swap at the minimum, and most of the stuff was already converted on the 3.2 because it came from a MTX car before. I just had to put my accessories on it, flywheel, mounts, intake.... I cleaned and changed other maintenance type stuff while I had it out, plus I did it at night after working 8 hours as a mechanic already during the week.... It only took me a couple hours or so to take the engine out, but once I had it out it was a great opprutunity to do stuff I didn't think about while I had the space and easy access... Plus I got some wrong parts and had problems locating parts so that took a couple more days to get wrapped up
 

SHOhopefull

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well the rear main will be done when you do the clutch so.....a comp frt 60K will solve the other side oil leak. A flywheel change will do nothing for a DD except make it harder to drive.

No wonder I had such a hard time being smooth when I got this car. It's supposed to have a 9lb flywheel on it. I just thought I was slipping. :nut:

BTW, how much does a lightweight flywheel affect drag acceleration? This being the only SHO I've driven, I have no baseline to go by.
 

supersteve

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i was on the shosource web site and looking at the flywheels and the shosource 8lb has the option for a steel insert, what does that do to it?
 

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