93rev2sev
SHO Member
So you found your bolts?
Mid-Michigan SHO - Circle Track Style
- Thread starter CircleTrackSHO
- Start date
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SHOracer14
Me-0 Diffs-6
Naw... less bolts = less weight!
CircleTrackSHO
New Member
SHORacer14 puts up a Top 10 in his first Circle Track Race..
16 cars in the Pony Stock Division took to the high banks of Springport Motor Speedway on Saturday night and JH in his #41 Yellow Dodge Neon started at the back of the field (non-qualifer).
The #41 fought a front end push and gearing issue and wasn't at 100%, but by skillfully managing his equipment, staying out of trouble and keeping at it SHORacer14 worked his way up to 10th and locked up the final spot in the Top 10.
The #13 (formally #6) Ford Taurus SHO of Patrick McNamara wasn't ready to be raced and got an extra week of rest.
16 cars in the Pony Stock Division took to the high banks of Springport Motor Speedway on Saturday night and JH in his #41 Yellow Dodge Neon started at the back of the field (non-qualifer).
The #41 fought a front end push and gearing issue and wasn't at 100%, but by skillfully managing his equipment, staying out of trouble and keeping at it SHORacer14 worked his way up to 10th and locked up the final spot in the Top 10.
The #13 (formally #6) Ford Taurus SHO of Patrick McNamara wasn't ready to be raced and got an extra week of rest.
93rev2sev
SHO Member
CircleTrackSHO
New Member
TPC - The SHO is really close to going, we could have gotten it done, but then JH's car wouldn't have gotten finished and it was more important to me after all that had been done for me to ensure that car ran and got to the track. Hopefully with a little luck and an extra set of hands we'll get the SHO button'd up this week and on the track for Saturday Night.
SHOracer14
Me-0 Diffs-6
All that's left on the SHO is the P/S to be hooked up, Trans mount, serp belt, suspension and fluids and it will be ready to go!
CircleTrackSHO
New Member
SHOracer14 did a little better this weekend... what do you guys think ??
TimboSHO
Intermediate
Awesome job Jim!!!!!
CircleTrackSHO
New Member
Well.. after sitting out almost the entire season with one problem or another.. we finally got the #13 Ford Taurus SHO back on the track.
I want to thank SHOracer14 and 93rev2sev for all their help and time on this project.
We managed to finish 5th in the feature (out of 11 cars starting) and did that with a Right Front tire which had no rubber left on it by the end of the race.
The car had an intermittent miss which I haven't had time to troubleshoot at all yet.. in the heat race, I had to pull off after one lap because the car wouldn't go over 4000 rpm and spit, sputtered and stopped on the track.
I really didn't have any expectations in the feature.. but there were a number of caution laps and the car came all the way up to temperature and it seemed to run better after that. I think the problem is the shifter linkage.. its damaged and the position of the shifter inside the car is not matching up with whats on the tranny.. when I pull it all the way back into 1st.. its not going all the way back.. and when I put it in park, its still in reverse. I have to move it into park after I get out by hand. I think this might be confusing the ecu and putting it into limp mode ?
However.. in the feature.. it ran fine, the car still just will NOT turn.. and the RF suffered because of it.. a completely corded and stripped of rubber RF by the end of 20 laps.
I think I'm going to have to weld my own control arm mounts and move that RF farther out.. anyone have any thoughts on this ?
I want to thank SHOracer14 and 93rev2sev for all their help and time on this project.
We managed to finish 5th in the feature (out of 11 cars starting) and did that with a Right Front tire which had no rubber left on it by the end of the race.
The car had an intermittent miss which I haven't had time to troubleshoot at all yet.. in the heat race, I had to pull off after one lap because the car wouldn't go over 4000 rpm and spit, sputtered and stopped on the track.
I really didn't have any expectations in the feature.. but there were a number of caution laps and the car came all the way up to temperature and it seemed to run better after that. I think the problem is the shifter linkage.. its damaged and the position of the shifter inside the car is not matching up with whats on the tranny.. when I pull it all the way back into 1st.. its not going all the way back.. and when I put it in park, its still in reverse. I have to move it into park after I get out by hand. I think this might be confusing the ecu and putting it into limp mode ?
However.. in the feature.. it ran fine, the car still just will NOT turn.. and the RF suffered because of it.. a completely corded and stripped of rubber RF by the end of 20 laps.
I think I'm going to have to weld my own control arm mounts and move that RF farther out.. anyone have any thoughts on this ?
Ishodu
SHO Member
Well the rev limier in N and P is 4000 rpm for the ATX maybe its confiused and thinks its not in gear.
hawkeye18
Sorta cares
Sounds like your MLPS has crapped out. This is the part you'll need to either adjust or replace (probably replace).
The good news is, they're very easy to replace (compared to other stuff). You'll need to remove the airbox lid and tube (just undo the clamp at the throttle body and take the whole thing off) to get good clearance to it, but it's on the top of the tranny just aft of the valve body and inboard of the strut tower.
To remove it you'll need a deepwell 13mm socket, an 8/10mm (I can't remember) socket, and a 12" extension, and of course a driver of your choice.
Aligning it is easier than it looks, though it will require 2 people unless you do it at night (back the car up to a wall and look for the lights reflected on the wall).
If you're doing it at daytime, have a person stand behind the car and tell you when the reverse lights come on... it should be about halfway into reverse coming from either direction. If it's not, adjust (loosen two 8mm bolts on either side) and rotate as necessary... some spatial orientation skills are required!
The MLPS has three seperate circuits: the circuit that tells the PCM what gear it's in, the circuit that lights the reverse lights up, and the circuit that allows the car to start only in P or N. One or more of these circuits can fail without affecting the other two due to wear or whatever else. Of course, if it's misaligned then all sorts of weird stuff can happen as well.
As a side note, if it's misaligned or broken and the car doesn't think it's in park, you CANNOT get KOER codes. It just won't do it. The PCM has to be in park to give codes. This is usually the dead giveaway...
As for the RF tire, is there any way you can roll the fenderwell and use a lugnut spacer? Say, .5 or 1"?
The good news is, they're very easy to replace (compared to other stuff). You'll need to remove the airbox lid and tube (just undo the clamp at the throttle body and take the whole thing off) to get good clearance to it, but it's on the top of the tranny just aft of the valve body and inboard of the strut tower.
To remove it you'll need a deepwell 13mm socket, an 8/10mm (I can't remember) socket, and a 12" extension, and of course a driver of your choice.
Aligning it is easier than it looks, though it will require 2 people unless you do it at night (back the car up to a wall and look for the lights reflected on the wall).
If you're doing it at daytime, have a person stand behind the car and tell you when the reverse lights come on... it should be about halfway into reverse coming from either direction. If it's not, adjust (loosen two 8mm bolts on either side) and rotate as necessary... some spatial orientation skills are required!
The MLPS has three seperate circuits: the circuit that tells the PCM what gear it's in, the circuit that lights the reverse lights up, and the circuit that allows the car to start only in P or N. One or more of these circuits can fail without affecting the other two due to wear or whatever else. Of course, if it's misaligned then all sorts of weird stuff can happen as well.
As a side note, if it's misaligned or broken and the car doesn't think it's in park, you CANNOT get KOER codes. It just won't do it. The PCM has to be in park to give codes. This is usually the dead giveaway...
As for the RF tire, is there any way you can roll the fenderwell and use a lugnut spacer? Say, .5 or 1"?
CircleTrackSHO
New Member
I can roll it.. hammer it.. I can pretty much the fender fit however I want..
I don't think that device is broken.. Its the clamp that holds the cable in place which is missing and I need to find a way to secure it.
Here is what I got :
Here is what it should look like :
Since I was in picture taking mode..
The Team CRC/Shoforum.com #13 Taurus :
I don't think that device is broken.. Its the clamp that holds the cable in place which is missing and I need to find a way to secure it.
Here is what I got :
Here is what it should look like :
Since I was in picture taking mode..
The Team CRC/Shoforum.com #13 Taurus :
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CircleTrackSHO
New Member
Some other photos since I was in picture taking mode..
This is how much RF camber I have right now :
This was achieved by relocated the top of the strut:
However.. even with that amount of camber... we still tore up the outside of the tire during the race:
This is how much RF camber I have right now :
This was achieved by relocated the top of the strut:
However.. even with that amount of camber... we still tore up the outside of the tire during the race:
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Ishodu
SHO Member
Maybe your best bet to increase that camber would be to cut the LCA mount off the sub frame and weld on a piece of 1/2" plate for example then re weld that mount back on. That should yield you lots of camber. I wouldn't want to cut and re weld the cast LCA.
CircleTrackSHO
New Member
Just a bunch of other photos of the car...
CircleTrackSHO
New Member
I agree 100%... that was my next thought.
Technically speaking, its an illegal modification.. stock appearing parts in stock locations.
But.. since this car was already smashed on the RF.. it will be "declared" crash damage repair !!
hawkeye18
Sorta cares
A thought on that filter:
You might want to go back to the stock filter setup. The setup you have right now, while it sucks a little more air in, is only sucking in really hot engine compartment air.
The stock setup is fine for all but the most aggressive mods (think supercharger), and there is very little restriction in it. If you want to keep that setup, figure out a way to block it off from the engine compartment, and force it to suck in air from the fender, which is much, much cooler than the engine air.
You'll actually lose a few HP doing it the way you're doing...
You might want to go back to the stock filter setup. The setup you have right now, while it sucks a little more air in, is only sucking in really hot engine compartment air.
The stock setup is fine for all but the most aggressive mods (think supercharger), and there is very little restriction in it. If you want to keep that setup, figure out a way to block it off from the engine compartment, and force it to suck in air from the fender, which is much, much cooler than the engine air.
You'll actually lose a few HP doing it the way you're doing...
bobreimer
SHO Member
You can play around with sway bars, but don't forget about a good four wheel alignment. Get them to make it "twitchy". Zero toe in the back, slight tow out in the front and lots of negative camber.
If that isn't lively enough, try slight toe out in the back.
If that isn't lively enough, try slight toe out in the back.
CircleTrackSHO
New Member
A thought on that filter:
You might want to go back to the stock filter setup. The setup you have right now, while it sucks a little more air in, is only sucking in really hot engine compartment air.
The stock setup is fine for all but the most aggressive mods (think supercharger), and there is very little restriction in it. If you want to keep that setup, figure out a way to block it off from the engine compartment, and force it to suck in air from the fender, which is much, much cooler than the engine air.
You'll actually lose a few HP doing it the way you're doing...
At the track, there is an hose extension which puts the filter out the the car (where the headlight hole is), but I take it out during the week so the cone doesn't get wet if it rains.. but I hear ya..
CircleTrackSHO
New Member
I would say I have about 3 degree's negative camber on the RF.. probably 4 degrees on the RR. I relocated the rear control arm mount points to push out the RR, its easier to do the rear then the front. Any ideas outside refabbing the control arms in the front ?
We have 1/4 inch toe out on the front. The rear is at zero, but I'm going to toe out the RR.
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