Mid 60k - rounded bolt and seal installers

[Zap]

I am in the midst of doing my Front 60k (mainly due to oil leaking on the front cat). I was making excellent progress until I met a rounded off bolt on the middle timing cover. It spun with the 8mm socket, so I tried a standard near that size. That worked for a little bit and got the bolt to start spinning, I think... However, now I can't even get that socket to turn the bolt . It appears that someone felt the need to reinstall a bad bolt into this cover. So, the cover moves a little bit since the bolt has partially made it out, but I can't for the life of me figure out any other way to get it the rest of the way out. On a positive note, besides this fiasco, I've had nothing but good feelings about the rest of the job. The crank bolt, keyway, and timing gear look to be in excellent shape. Also, it looks like there is at least one leak from the rear intake cam seal, so hopefully I have located my problem.

So, the real problem at this point is that I need to figure out how to get this blasted bolt out so I can remove the middle timing cover and continue with my 60k. Additionally, I need to know what exactly to pick up from the hardware store (we've got Home Depot, Lowes, and a DoItBest store around here) to properly install my new front main and cam seals. Also, I'm curious to know if I should be using Loctite on the cam gear bolts and the crank bolt when I get to the reassembly stage. I know I've seen it suggested, and if it will help keep them secure, I'd be glad to throw some on there.

I'm also not very thrilled to find out I'm missing timing cover bolts:
Upper - Have 5 shorter and 2 longer bolts, missing two bolts
Middle - Left side bolt missing, need both to be replaced due to rounded right
Lower - Upper left bolt missing

It works, but needless to say I'd rather have all of the proper bolts. If anyone happens to have some spares, please send me a PM.

Thanks for the help, and BTW SHOPhoenixProject ROCKS! I've been using a printed out copy of the guide (actually without pictures) and I've only needed to come reference the photos a few times, which clarified what I was looking for very well. Hopefully I can get my SHO back on the road soon! :****:

 

[luigisho]

Can you get a pair of needle nose vice grips on it? Pull and turn at the same time should do it if you can get them on there. Another way to go might be to cut the head of the bolt off and get some locking pliers on the exposed stud when the timing cover is off.

 

[Zap]

I've tried vice grips, however I don't think I have a pair of needle nosed ones. I will go look through the tools that are here and see. The ones I do have are fairly small though. Additionally, It isn't possible to cut the bolt off, or I would have probably tried that by now

 

[Mr Anonymous]

Sears sells a bolt-out kit that's perfect for this type of situation for around $20 (make sure the kit has remover #3 in it as that's the right size for an 8mm head that's rounded and they sell more than one kit).

Otherwise, if nothing else works, you might choose to rip off the timing cover and then get the bolt out with the visegrips, oh and then find a replacement middle timing cover.

 

[Zap]

Well, I've made progress... just not as much as I need to! Ah, the fun of working on the SHO. I have discovered that the rear intake cam seal was leaking badly.. I think I found at least one of my problems!!

The bad bolt is out, but it was stripped as all get out... so I'm guessing that was an "air wrench mistake". I used the Sears bolt-out kit, and it did its job VERY well. I would recommend having one for all your rounded-head bolt removal needs.

Now the real fun begins. Let's just call the previous service person/place stupid (which is a huge understatement). The CPS's left screw is partially stripped, and it won't unscrew for me. Any suggestions? You can't use a regular screwdriver due to length and I've tried all the ones I had laying around. It's a philips screw. I'm guessing that I am going to need a replacement for when it goes back in. I'm not using that again. Also, the CPS wiring was routed the wrong way, so I cannot remove it until I remove the screw. Worst case I guess I could leave the CPS installed, as it appears that it isn't original, since a new one was installed with the wiring going the wrong way and the screw stripped. I actually wasn't going to change the W/P due to trying to keep this as low budget as possible, but I'm going to order one now. I don't want to have to rip all of this stuff out again!

The CID also has a rounded head bolt (back one) which I cannot get off. Are these bolts 5.5mm? That's the smallest thing I've got, and I don't have a 5 to try because my 5mm bit got lost somewhere along the way. The 5.5 worked fine for the front bolt. Needless to say, once I get this thing off, I am going to need another to replace it with. I do have a new CID, though the old one works just fine, but it didn't come with new bolts.

 

[autobahnsho]

Fun fun fun.

For the CPS screw I stripped one out myself, I had to put a chisel on it and make a slot for a regular (flathead) screwdriver. When you buy a replacement screw, it's supposed to be stainless steel because the sensor works with magnets, and regular steel might interfere. Unfortunately stainless steel is soft..

If you've seen those screwdrivers that are a handle mounted SIDEWAYS to a ratchet head, I'd recommend them. You can get some extra pressure on them with your other hand, to get stubborn screws out.


Good luck! I'd recommend replacing everything that you can afford to, so you don't have to dissemble again.