I have a 3.2. Im having low RPM issues. it sputters and exhaust smokes and smells like fuel. above 4000 rpm it runs awesome. have changed plugs, wires, coil, DIS, MAF, Cam PS, TPS, Coolant temp sensor I have swapped computers. nothing has helped. I have ran codes and got nothing. Need Help!!
Low RPM issue
- Thread starter hawxby06
- Start date
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sperold
Last to Know
The TPS would have been my guess.
Check your spark plug wire routing, cylinders 5 and 6 sometimes get mixed up. Here is the correct routing: http://www.shoforum.com/showthread.php?t=89091
There are codes (stored) that you have not yet discovered.
Check your spark plug wire routing, cylinders 5 and 6 sometimes get mixed up. Here is the correct routing: http://www.shoforum.com/showthread.php?t=89091
There are codes (stored) that you have not yet discovered.
ok, my car is a track car. The problem started while driving it so that eliminates the plug wires being routed wrong. Could the IAC cause this Problem or maybe the Crank shaft position sensor? Will check the butterflies!
sperold
Last to Know
What fuel pump do you have?
Do a check on the rail to see what pressure your pressure regulator is delivering.
If it is not a fuel issue, go back to the throttle position sensor and see if it puts out a linear signal as you move it through the range manually.
Usually the crank position sensor does not improve with more rpm.
The IAC is more about idling smoothly and doesn't affect things just under 4000 rpm.
Do a check on the rail to see what pressure your pressure regulator is delivering.
If it is not a fuel issue, go back to the throttle position sensor and see if it puts out a linear signal as you move it through the range manually.
Usually the crank position sensor does not improve with more rpm.
The IAC is more about idling smoothly and doesn't affect things just under 4000 rpm.
sperold
Last to Know
Fuel is fine.
You are back to that pesky TPS.
Other than that, you may need some analysis on the injectors as you seem to have the same amount of fuel injected, irrespective of where you are on the rpm band.
You are back to that pesky TPS.
Other than that, you may need some analysis on the injectors as you seem to have the same amount of fuel injected, irrespective of where you are on the rpm band.
It sounds to me like you have an injector (or several) that don't want to shut off, which causes rich condition / flooding / misfire until the rpm and/or load is high enough to use all that fuel.
A couple of useful posts on the fuel system:
http://www.shoforum.com/showpost.php?p=63824&postcount=5
http://www.shoforum.com/showthread.php?t=14616
http://www.shoforum.com/showpost.php?p=63824&postcount=5
http://www.shoforum.com/showthread.php?t=14616
sperold
Last to Know
^^^^ The SHOdded post is pure gold.
And yes, your way of checking the injectors physically is hard to argue with.
I was thinking more along the lines of trigger timing and pulse width which is the electrical or electronic side of things. I don't know much about this, but I know they are measurable as that is how you get the instantaneous readout for miles per gallon when you install those mileage meters.
If everything checks out on the fuel issue, then take a look at all your timing marks to see if anything moved. Maybe when you go for total advance on your timing, whatever is wrong, becomes closer to right.
I hope you solve this thing soon, as I am really out of ideas, and reaching deep.
And yes, your way of checking the injectors physically is hard to argue with.
I was thinking more along the lines of trigger timing and pulse width which is the electrical or electronic side of things. I don't know much about this, but I know they are measurable as that is how you get the instantaneous readout for miles per gallon when you install those mileage meters.
If everything checks out on the fuel issue, then take a look at all your timing marks to see if anything moved. Maybe when you go for total advance on your timing, whatever is wrong, becomes closer to right.
I hope you solve this thing soon, as I am really out of ideas, and reaching deep.
Apologies if I am asking the obvious; you said you had "checked codes", and I'm not sure if that means you have already run the KOEO and KOER tests, including the cylinder balance test? Have you tried unplugging the MAF sensor?
I have ran codes and secondary fuel circuit. And o2 sensor codes. Because I dont have the o2 sensors hooked up. And it has ran fine for the last year like that. Did a cylinder test and came back code 10. I switched injectors 1 and 2 around and put in a different pcm and now I cant get the results from my cylinder test.
you might think it runs fine without the oxy sensors connected, but it most definitely does not. the pcm will adjust fuel trims trying to get the oxy sensors to switch, and that will continue up to the 25% limit of what the software allows adjustment-wise. that means that eventually, the engine is running 25% lean or 25% rich under all closed loop conditions, which is most of the time.
based on that, it is no wonder at all that the thing runs crappy. you need to put decent oxy sensors in the system and connect them up if you want any hope of having the thing run right.
based on that, it is no wonder at all that the thing runs crappy. you need to put decent oxy sensors in the system and connect them up if you want any hope of having the thing run right.
sperold
Last to Know
I visited a shop that campaigns a mud rail - carbureted, distributer, and quite old school with the exception that it runs some kind of additional exotic fuel, separately injected in the intake runner. The base engine architecture is around 60 years old.
It had O2 sensors installed in the header outlets and they kept track of the air / fuel ratio.
If that thing needed them for a 3 or 4-second 1/8 mile run, then everything needs them.
It had O2 sensors installed in the header outlets and they kept track of the air / fuel ratio.
If that thing needed them for a 3 or 4-second 1/8 mile run, then everything needs them.
So I decided to remove my upper timing cover and check the timing. It was 2 teeth off. After removing the timing belt and inspecting it I found that it was ripped. Replaced belt and put all back together and problem is fixed!! Still have to install o2 sensors and it should be back to full power again! Thanks for the help!!!
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