Lots of codes, namely 77 !! need help

[still.popimpin]

Lots of codes, FIXED !!!

Ok, if you have read any of my posts latelyyou may know what im dealing with, if not, here goes. got a sho that sat for 8 years, changed the cps (crank), and it fired right up, ran beautiful, revved right up, was fast, no bogging, and this was on 8 year old gas. Well about all the way through the old gas, i noticed what sounded like a miss, coming from one of the cats, and a significant loss of power, harder to start, and virtually no acceleration. Look under the car, and hey, one of the cats is glowing. found the problem, right? uh, no. So i gut the cats, weld them back together, and take it for a drive, a little better, but still no punch, car bogs on take-off, now i hear a little "pffst" sound when im ******* the gas around 4 or 5 grand. I read a post were some people have holes in there exhaust and have the same problems, well my welds suck, and leak a little, could this be it? I pulled the MAF, cleaned it out, took it for another drive, nothing, still the same. Car idles smooth, and starts right up, but has NO low end punch, and very little under acceleration.

So, today, I pull codes again. and get this
21 ECT out of range its cold, maybe could have let the car warm up longer ???
24 ACT out of range figured same as ECT ???
52 power steering switch always opened or closed. not part of my problem. right?
74 break on / off switch not activated. again, not part of my problem. right?
77 system failed to recognize brief WOT during dynamic response test. Im thinking this may contribute to my problem, but what does it mean? are my secondaries not kicking in? Im lost !!!

Please Help.

 

[SASHO91]

you just didnt hit the gas hard enough during the test... thats what 77 is...

have you changed the 02's??

what about plugs/wires?

Was the car warmed up past the L? if not then thats why you got the ECT code. however, if it was warm, then i would replace it...

 

[still.popimpin]

didnt know i was supposed to hit the gas, i just started it and let it run and spit out codes.

O2s were changed while car was dead about 8 years ago, only ran a little bit with them in. could be plugs and wires but they are supposed to be fairly new as well.

dont think it was past the L, but im not to concerned about that right now anyway.

anyone else?

 

[SASHO91]

The ECT is an important sensor.....

 

[ritmusic2k]

Read instructions for the eec self-test at shophoenixproject.com.

They tell you what to do, when to do it... turning steering wheel, hitting brake pedal, goosing the throttle, etc.

Good luck on the codes!

EDIT: looking back at your list - 52, 74, 77 all have to do with stuff you're supposed to be doing to the car during the KOER test - see instructions above. Also, definitely warm up the car before doing either the KOEO or the KOER test... in fact, let the car run a few minutes between the two tests as well so the O2 sensors are nice and toasty!

 

[SHOck]

Considering the conditions of the first test, I would suggest you let the car warm up properly, then conduct the test again.

Not a good idea to run a car on 8-year gas, even if it works fine at first. Anytime a car has sat for that long, several things can happen. 1) There is an organism that sometime gets into the tank that feeds on part of the gas. It will cause the gas to thicken over time. 2) Gas evaporates in order of the most volotile to least volotile chains, if a tank is not sealed. Eventually (20 years) you will be left with something resembling ******, but not as potent. 3) Water will form in the tank if it's not sealed and full, and this settles to the bottom. Not only will it cause driveability issues (fuel is pulled from the bottom of the tank), but it will cause the tank to rust, clogging your fuel filter.

Additionally, injectors do not take well to sitting with fuel in them for long periods.

My strategy for this a situation would be:

1) Drop tank, pull fuel pump, empty contents, clean out tank, replace fuel pump with new if remaining contents of tank are gummy, or clean out pump if not.

2) Replace Fuel filter.

3) Fill tank at least 1/2 full with fresh fuel. Prime fuel pump 10 times to remove old fuel remaining in lines. Start car, and check fuel line pressure to determing if FPR is bad.

4) After car has warmed up completely, re-run both the KOEO and KOER tests.

5) Remove injectors, send off for professional cleaning, replace FPR if it was found to be bad.

6) Once everything is back together, trouble-shoot any failure codes and the "pffst" sound coming from the exhaust

 

[still.popimpin]

yes, them codes were from the KOER test, I just didnt turn the wheel, hit the brake, or press the gas. Also, for the cylinder test, do i have to press the gas halfway 6 times, 1 for each cylinder, or just the one time to start the test, then it will do the rest?

I would imagine code 52, 54, and 77 will go away once i do the test correct, thats what it looks like in black and white anyway.

Also, I jumped from the grey connector to the neg. on the battery, not the upper right tewrminal on the triangular connector, is this wrong, just another way of doing it or ??? Could that make some difference?

Also, my E-brake does not work, and i am not going to press it in fear of it sticking, that will not affect my test will it?

 

[still.popimpin]

Oh, and before i started the car for the first time, i purged the fuel system about 10 times, until the fuel coming out was nice and clear, and smelled like it should. What kind of guage do i use on the schrader valve to check the fuel pressure? Prolly a dumb question, but a tire pressure guage prolly wont work huh? I really do not think this is the problem, but i might as well check it anyway.

 

[ritmusic2k]

Also, for the cylinder test, do i have to press the gas halfway 6 times, 1 for each cylinder, or just the one time to start the test, then it will do the rest?

Give me a press. One press only.




Bah. I was hoping for a little 'Red October' allusion, but it just doesn't came across well in type.

Yeah, one time'll do it. That is, press the gas down once when you see the single flash of the check engine light, and let it do its thing. Once the idle returns to normal again, you have the option to press the gas one more time to initiate the balance test. Then you're done interacting.

 

[still.popimpin]

got the red october allusion. HAHAHAHAHAHAHAH :laugh_ti:


really, thanks for the input.

 

[still.popimpin]

well, dont i feel like an assjack. Got the info to do the codes correctly from shophoenixproject, whent out to run them. got this
KOEO 11 system OK.. sweet
KOER nothing..... sweet
cylinder test, not so sweet. problem with cylinder 5. so i pull the wire while its running, sparks everywhere. huh, fuel maybe, plugged injector? lets try something first, switch #4 and 5 plugs, run test again, plug #4 is bad, diagnosis, bad plug. changed them, runs perfect.

 

[CerberuS]

Another SHO got saved.

 

[still.popimpin]

LOL, cerberus, you have been following my problems enough, you know what this sho has put me through, May be a little pre-mature to say saved yet, hope you didnt curse me. Still have to check and see if the sub-frame plates have been done for the recall yet, and have to weld the strut rod reciever. running good though.

 

[SHOck]

Sorry, thought you had already checked the basics (spark/air/fuel), and had narrowed this to a fuel supply issue.