Looking for some educated guesses.

[kryptto]

Reading this you will ask for items I don't have, logs... I don't drive the car much so prior to my recent drive I didn't have logging. BTW no DTCs.

This car was tuned when the car was running in 92+ temps and 90% humidity. Now I took her out Sat night temps being 60 degrees.

Two observations during these cooler air days down here in S Fla. If i let the car heat up, and this might be reproducible, the idle as the engine reaches temp and idles down. It will start to 'flutter' essentially bounce up and down 25-50 rpm, almost sounding like it could stall. Since I don't drive her much so once a week I start her up and keep oil moving.

So to the bigger issue, if I am coming to a red light from high speeds, don't stop, light changes, but get to about 20mph and go to punch her - she stutters and won't spin up, I have to get off the gas and gun her again. This is a lot less likely to reproduce. Doesnt seem like a tranny issue like gear hunting, or at least my impression

Thoughts? Yes I will get logs and try to reproduce.

 

[Junkyard_Mad-Scientist]

The flutter could be anything (stating the obvious i know), bad tank of gas, a sensor not happy with the cold snap, that one i'd definitely watch the live data for

As for the 20mph roll and stomp mine has done something similar since the cold started here in the sunshine state. my first thought with mine was TPS, which might play a role in the lope at idle. mine did it twice last week, once passing and once at a light, both slow rolls and it was like a dead pedal, one pump and it came back like nothing happened. a good scan will go far, check for stored codes not triggering a light (i just found that feature so it might be old news but it was really cool to see). when it happens, is it bogging down like its running out of gas, is it like a dead pedal, or does it just feel light on power?

 

[kryptto]

is it like a dead pedal

Dead Pedal/Light Pedal for the most part - like it wanted to jump, but plane ole doesnt want to go. I have noticed and annoyed by the shift point of this transmission being around 45 MPH, its a weird shift point. I am going to return to stock, then update the TSWire to the latest firmware, then flash my tune back. I am going to log the idle to engine temp and see what I get there. Thanks Junkyard MS

 

[Ta2dResqr]

Talk to your tuner. I had a GH tune and the shift point for one of my gears was at a common cruising speed for my commute. It made the car hunt a lot. I talked to him and he adjusted it a little bit. The hunting went away completely.

 

[kryptto]

Talk to your tuner. I had a GH tune and the shift point for one of my gears was at a common cruising speed for my commute. It made the car hunt a lot. I talked to him and he adjusted it a little bit. The hunting went away completely.

That might be the problem.

 

[kryptto]

So I updated the Tuner and reflashed the car, anyone know what the idle RPM should be at, mine is 600 in drive and neutral. Curious..

 

[BradM]

My logs show 600rpm neutral and drive. AJP tune.

 

[kryptto]

My logs show 600rpm neutral and drive. AJP tune.

ok same, mine just sounds like it could stall, interesting.

 

[kryptto]

To assist others, I wanted to post this little checklist:

So a follow up to my own post with my tuners comments, to be honest he quickly made observations I should of in my gut started with... however he read my history of emails back and forth, the upgrades I have, and had some immediate feedback without any logging.

Less than a few hundred miles ago I had a intake system cleaning.... so there are a few items here - commercial cleaning can possibly damage the MAP sensors delicate diaphragm. EVEN Wiki How shows and warns how to properly clean a MAP sensor by NOT spraying the diaphragm and NOT using 'carb' cleaner since it can be too caustic and damage the membrane. It came up when searching for CRC MAP cleaner, and laughed how accurate it was for a "How To" site.

So for the rough idle and "weird" punch it at a slow speed and the engine went - **** - clear signs the MAP could be damaged, OR;

I have Accel coil packs... MSD and other after market coils have had various write ups for not providing OEM power when needed, or premature failure, causing misfire. FOR whatever reasons, recommended to put back the Ford OEM.

Next was my PP TSC on or off, it was a cooler 59 degree night, and well at 20ish MPH I could of caused the TSC to panic and shut down the process to spin my tires, 1 front and 1 rear to be exact - the way our cars work.

The carbon removal process might of fouled a plug, causing issues with a misfire, once again, pull each one, and look for damage or fouling.

He wants me to see if I get any P0300-P0306, however after upgrading my TSWire firmware required a flash to stock - then flash to tuned, it clears DTC from memory in that process, so if I had those codes they are long gone.

He did state I can send him a log of the warm up to a rough idle - however he would only be looking at fuel trims and O2 sensor info - stating and I quote "If you send an idle log I'll gladly look but they almost never record misfires. I would be looking at fuel trims and 02 sensor data."
PS - Oh yeah, as a final note from AJP - here is a quote about his tune, and my experienced issue:

"You don't have cold enough temps or are running enough boost to experience fuel issues with my tune. So we can rule that out also. Hope that helps some or gives you something to look at."

 

[kryptto]

Ok update, I bought new OEM coil packs and pulled all 6 Accel Coil Packs and pulled all plugs and inspected and re-gapped. All plugs had normal beige anodes. I will say number 3 and 5 had some decent carbon around the lip on the edge. I replaced my 3 bar map. For safety sake - all seems good, I didn't try to reproduce had another project to work on. So basically left in the new plugs,, none were too different in color or condition. Had only two I re-gapped to .028. Otherwise these plugsare seriously 700-1000 miles on them.

So with new MAP hopefully my issue was TC I forgot to shut off.