Looking for about 30HP

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itwonder

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I had always understood the order to be something along the lines of:

Y-Pipe
Low restriction cat-back
Big Bore butterfly and intake porting
 

shobote

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catted y pipe for best drivability on a stock SHO, as the increased low and mid end torque is the best for street driving. Catless y gains are high rpm HP, and the sound is not appealing without custom exhaust.
 

19sho90

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Absolutely, no other mod should come first as far as power mods. Stock Y-pipe is an exercise in restriction. Then just add 2-3 stickers or a racing stripe till you get 30hp.*

After that, rod shifter if you've got cable. Won't add power but you'll like it anyway.



*That part was a joke.[/QUOT
Yeah man i got a24V sticker for the back i can feel the power gain.
 

19sho90

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Here's a different take on this subject...instead of dropping money on mods to the car, why not shed a few pounds and take a driving class at a racetrack?! Aren't there some standard ratios out there, like for every pound in unsprung weight you save, that translates to three pounds in sprung weight? And you'll actually gain hp by saving weight?

But seriously, if the end result is to have a faster car, try increasing the skills of the driver. Ran into this dilemma all the time when I had my motorcycles. Guys were always asking how to make the bike faster. Should they add a pipe, rejet/replace the carbs, carbon fiber body pieces, lightweight wheels, etc. I always told them to save their money and attend a track riding school.

Ive always just wanted to go to a track and see. But where in the colorado is there? All we have becides puelo motorsports park is Bandmeiere.
 

19sho90

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So it looks like the First thing im going to do is a Y-pipe. Anyone have one they dont need? lol.
 

sperold

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I would get the equal length catted Y-pipe from Shosource. It is more expensive, but it has a lot of good features. In a pinch, you can install it yourself as this system is a clamp together deal rather than a 1 piece weldment, so the install is easy enough for you to do it, and cheaper at a shop if you get them to do it. The 1 piece weldments sometimes give you grief getting the downpipes started and you need heat and leverage to re-angle the piping to get the nuts started.
They claim to be the correct diameter for best performance and the routing of the short pipe gives it a balance that you don't get with the others.
Put all your performance money in the pipe and leave it at that. Then do all the maintenance items and it will be a gem.
 

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