LOC-TITE your PP bolts... it works...

[SASHO91]

Well, i figured out why i was having problems shifting at WOT.... and started to do it while just crusin too...
PP bolts, obviously backed out... and i will give you a couple guesses but your only going to need one to figure out why they did... :cuss:
so i tightend down the PP bolts... (w/out removing the tranny.... thank you very much....)

I was in a hurry to get the clutch back in, and i didnt have any loc-tite... i am going to be buying a surplus of that S*** now....

as for the loc-tite, what color, or rating do i need to go with... IIRC its the blue...

as for the clutch... it feels great... as i havent taken her out on the road, but just from driving her from the shop to house (100ft) the clutch feels awsome... it feels almost new again....

so i will say it again.... LOC-TITE YOUR PP BOLTS.......


(i know almost everyone else knows this, but i wanted to clear up my issues for future reference...)
i will post again tomorrow to let yall know how she is doing, shifting, and what not...

LOC-TITE...

 

[NJSHO]

Did you torque them with a torque wrench the first time? Blue is the way to go.

 

[SHO Type U]

Blue is the way to go.

Red is typically for permanent applications.

Blue is used if, you want to be able to remove it again.

 

[AREA 91]

I run red.

 

[Shoaz]

Since you're working with the PP and tranny in place, I think the green loctite is also a candidate. This is the stuff that seeps into the threads while the bolt is in place.

Glad you figured out how to do that without pulling the tranny.

 

[NWGRN94MTX]

Red - strongest stuff,

OEM specified as 271
High temperature, high strength for heavy duty applications
Designed for larger fasteners 3/8" to 1" (9.5mm to 25mm)
Locks studs, bushings and large fasteners against vibration loosening
Strengthens slip and light press fits
Removable with heat and hand tools

Blue - Second strongest,

Locks threaded fasteners against vibration loosening
Ideal for nut and bolt applications 1/4" to 3/4" (6mm to 20mm)
Prevents threads from rusting and leaking
Removable with hand tools for easy disassembly
Temperature range: -65 degrees to 300 degrees Fahrenheit (-54 degrees to 149 degrees Celsius)

Green - the "creeping" thread locker

Prevents vibration loosening of pre-assembled fasteners
For use on electrical connectors, instrumentation, screws, and set screws
Ideal for fasterners #2 - 1/2"

Purple - for the small stuff

Has the same properties as Blue, designed for fasteners smaller than
1/4" - 6mm where blue would two strong to remove the fastner.

 

[Yamaha V6]

Be careful, there is also a green ultra-permanent sleeve retaining compound, from which there is no return.

I red loctite the quill sleeve, and pretty much blue loctite everything else on the car.

 

[revhardSHO]

If you have a stock pressure plate, the new bolts should come with a yellow-ish loc-tite like coating from the factory, so all you need to do is torque them down to spec.

 

[RJ-92]

Make sure you clean the threads in the flywheel and on the bolts with rubbing alcohol or acetone to get all the grease and dirt out so the Loc-tite has something to stick to.

 

[jedhead]

Loctite 272 is the high temp version of the red 271.

Bob

 

[shojuan]

There are several more flavors of red as well. Lol, there's a loctite for every day of the year, and probably then some.

IIRC Loctite 290 green wicking grade is stronger than blue. Also, you need to use heat to remove it, just like the reds. If you can tighten the PP bolts without removing the tranny, you can try to see if you can get some 290 around the bolts.

 

[etc1006]

I had a same situation on my old 92 LX 5.0. I didn't loctite the driveshaft bolts. About a month later I started getting a "clunk/clack" on take off and downshift. Turns out I forgot to go back and do that. I DID intend to, just didn't have any that day I did the clutch.

-Eric

 

[SASHO91]

So, will blue hold???

im not looking for the ultimate loctite.... green, yellow, purple.... its a f'in rainbow....

 

[Yamaha V6]

Blue is fine for PP bolts.

 

[Sexymeatball]

:

so i tightend down the PP bolts... (w/out removing the tranny.... thank you very much....)

How did you manage that? My curiousity is getting the best of me.

 

[SASHO91]

it killed the cat you know.....



you know the "breather" on the top of the tranny.... I took out the ribs that were in there... got a mirror so i could see when the bolts lined up.... (turned the motor over from the crank bolt) and used a couple 1/4'' extensions, and a swivle...
the only reason i had to use a swivle, was that they dont line up perfectly... but i can fix that the next time i go in there... with a dremel... just to take a small amount off the top....
i think i can pull the bolts out completly, put loctite, then put them back in all with this method... and if i happen to drop one... i'll just pull the starter, and pray that it didnt get stuck in the clutch....

not the best way to do it, but ALOT easier than pulling the trans....

there you go....

 

[Shoaz]

There's another way that may be easier.

Pull the starter motor, use a crow's foot to inspect/tighten the bolts. You can turn the motor with a socket and breaker bar on the crank pulley. You can also inspect the straps this way.

 

[F-22 Raptor SHO]

you know the "breather" on the top of the tranny.... I took out the ribs that were in there... got a mirror so i could see when the bolts lined up.... (turned the motor over from the crank bolt) and used a couple 1/4'' extensions, and a swivle...
the only reason i had to use a swivle, was that they dont line up perfectly... but i can fix that the next time i go in there... with a dremel... just to take a small amount off the top....
i think i can pull the bolts out completly, put loctite, then put them back in all with this method... and if i happen to drop one... i'll just pull the starter, and pray that it didnt get stuck in the clutch....

not the best way to do it, but ALOT easier than pulling the trans....

there you go....

1: nice job. I will try that if I need to tighten my stuff as well. I blue loctited mine in and they have remained. I would suggest anyone trying this procedure to use a bit of duct tape on the wrench connection spots to avoid a "whoops" situation.

Note: Green seeping thread locker for electrical type connections....what can I say other than be very scared of this inspite of the label. Seeping is an understatement...more like tougher to contain than a viral infection in an elementary school. 1 drop and you are seized for life or 400 degrees, whichever comes first.

blue loctite is very manageable and gets the job done.

 

[SASHO91]

hate to ask....
but whats a crow's foot??

 

[Shoaz]

Crow's feet:

http://www.sears.com/sr/javasr/search.do?BV_UseBVCookie=Yes&verticalFullName=Tools&keyword=Crow%27s+foot&displayTarget=searchresults

FWIW, I've never actually tried using a crow's foot on a PP bolt through the starter opening, but just always kept it in mind as something to try. I have a loose PP in the garage and just went and checked whether a crow's foot would actually fit over the 10mm bolt, and it's purty dang tight. If your crow's foot doesn't have thin sides it might not work. A 10mm socket with a bolt end would probably work, but I don't know how tough it would be to get in there.