Hey guys, I'm not new to Sho's but I need some help here. I have a 95ATX, green of course, that has a sever hesitation and bog at 3k RPM's, it's like the choke is one..if it had one...and it bogs, BAD! I put new plugs in last weekend and of course the wells were FULL of oil. My ideas so far are...Timing belt has slipped, clogged cats, bad 02 sensor, TPS? Any help you can give is greatly appreciated. I already have the timing cover off and I am going to line up the belt and see if it has slipped this weekend.Thanks guys.
Like someone pulled the choke or threw a rag in the airbox.
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Ishodu
SHO Member
It will be the wires, if they were soaked in oil they are now damaged. Now that you removed the oil (insulator) the wires are now arcing inside. You going to need to work on the top 60k, search that.
Bizzy
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The first thing I would do would be to run the codes to see if anything is stored. If not then I remove spark plug #1 and turn the crank with a socket until the motor is at TDC and check the timing marks on the cam sprockets. That's the most simple way, without removing the crank dampener pulley, to see if timing is off or not.
If it doesn't have any codes and the timing is dead on (even 1 tooth off can cause big problems) then move onto the wires. It would be a good idea to replace the wires since they are probably damaged. Wires are part of the normal 60k maintenance but it's not uncommon for people to get well over 120k out of the OEM wires, I had over 136k out of the ones on my old 91 and the car ran fine.
Make sure that all the vacuum lines on the back of the intake are connected properly. Make sure all the electrical connections are connected to their proper mates. perhaps when you had the intake off you missed reconnecting one.
I'm assuming that you replaced the tube seals and properly gapped the spark plugs, yes?
If everything has been done correctly and all the vacuum lines and electrical connectors are checked as being fine you might consider the cats as a problem. At night run the car until it's warm and then take a look under the car. If one or both of your cats is glowing red, that is a sure indicator that the red one(s) are clogged. The car probably would also be making somewhat of a hissing sound as well, kind of like a "WHSHHHHHHHHHH!" sound. Just listening for the whshh sound is not a 100% test however. A slight clog may not cause any outward symptoms other than a poor running car.
The above is only advice on where I would start to look for problems. I cannot promise that anything I've said is your problem. Best thing to do is start at the basics and don't replace parts needlessly, it can be an expensive venture if you do it that way. I once followed a topic here on the forum about a guy who replaced this part and that part, he spent well over $300 on parts by the time he was done and the car still ran like shiott. Ended up all that was wrong was a bad ground where he didn't tighten the ground all the way on the rear of his intake. Don't learn the expensive way. Take your time, us a good bright light when working in the engine bay and be thorough and meticulous when checking everything you touched while working on the car. The answer is probably right at your fingertips.
Good luck!
P.S. How did the car run prior to you working on it?
If it doesn't have any codes and the timing is dead on (even 1 tooth off can cause big problems) then move onto the wires. It would be a good idea to replace the wires since they are probably damaged. Wires are part of the normal 60k maintenance but it's not uncommon for people to get well over 120k out of the OEM wires, I had over 136k out of the ones on my old 91 and the car ran fine.
Make sure that all the vacuum lines on the back of the intake are connected properly. Make sure all the electrical connections are connected to their proper mates. perhaps when you had the intake off you missed reconnecting one.
I'm assuming that you replaced the tube seals and properly gapped the spark plugs, yes?
If everything has been done correctly and all the vacuum lines and electrical connectors are checked as being fine you might consider the cats as a problem. At night run the car until it's warm and then take a look under the car. If one or both of your cats is glowing red, that is a sure indicator that the red one(s) are clogged. The car probably would also be making somewhat of a hissing sound as well, kind of like a "WHSHHHHHHHHHH!" sound. Just listening for the whshh sound is not a 100% test however. A slight clog may not cause any outward symptoms other than a poor running car.
The above is only advice on where I would start to look for problems. I cannot promise that anything I've said is your problem. Best thing to do is start at the basics and don't replace parts needlessly, it can be an expensive venture if you do it that way. I once followed a topic here on the forum about a guy who replaced this part and that part, he spent well over $300 on parts by the time he was done and the car still ran like shiott. Ended up all that was wrong was a bad ground where he didn't tighten the ground all the way on the rear of his intake. Don't learn the expensive way. Take your time, us a good bright light when working in the engine bay and be thorough and meticulous when checking everything you touched while working on the car. The answer is probably right at your fingertips.
Good luck!
P.S. How did the car run prior to you working on it?
The Car
Thanks for the insight guys, as for how it ran before hand, not great to tell the truth, it's a real dog. It had a surge at constant throttle..possible TPS? I'm thinking, but even for a ATX this one was slow..real slow...I'm gonna replace the wires this weekend and go from there...Thanks Alot.
Thanks for the insight guys, as for how it ran before hand, not great to tell the truth, it's a real dog. It had a surge at constant throttle..possible TPS? I'm thinking, but even for a ATX this one was slow..real slow...I'm gonna replace the wires this weekend and go from there...Thanks Alot.
Bizzy
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Just because the light hasn't come on for you doesn't mean that there aren't codes to be read. Check the codes. 
The bulb could be bad or removed possibly. Any time you have problems with the running of the engine the first place you should start is with the codes. Worst case, you wasted 5 minutes.
The bulb could be bad or removed possibly. Any time you have problems with the running of the engine the first place you should start is with the codes. Worst case, you wasted 5 minutes.
platoribs
Live to Drive
If you don't keep the oil out of the plug wells you'll foul a new set of wires in no time!
K guys pulled teh plugs and replaced them, one of the wires, it's the backside closest to the driver, has a hole in the top of the wire...the square part...what are the best wires to get and do the wires come complete with the tops...
Bizzy
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Many people swear by only Motorcraft wires, however they tend to be pricey. They are a guaranteed fit however and the quality on them is good.
Accel makes wires as well and I know they work wonderfully. Fitment is not an issue. Same thing with Taylor wires. Some people I've read use Napa wires and supposedly they work fine as well.
Here's a thread with a few suggestions.
My suggestion to you is figure out what price range you want to be in and search Rockauto.com, RCM, SHO NUT, Autozone, SHO Source, etc. to see what the current prices are. Pick your vendor and go from there.
Accel makes wires as well and I know they work wonderfully. Fitment is not an issue. Same thing with Taylor wires. Some people I've read use Napa wires and supposedly they work fine as well.
Here's a thread with a few suggestions.
My suggestion to you is figure out what price range you want to be in and search Rockauto.com, RCM, SHO NUT, Autozone, SHO Source, etc. to see what the current prices are. Pick your vendor and go from there.
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