Lightning 90mm MAF on Turbo SHO. HELP!

[SHOWYA]

Plugged the Calibration on the Tweecer and it just wont stay running.

Can anybody send me a working calibration just so i can at least get it running and work from there.

Thanks!

 

[yamahaSHO]

What else have you done with the tune? Are you SURE you have the right MAF curve?

 

[Sho Amo]

what injectors are you running? also, try putting the tune on selection 4. i had mine on 1 and it would never work. i dunno why i tried 4 but it worked.

 

[Toolman]

What type of connector are you using? Did you wire one in, are buy an adapter?

 

[yamahaSHO]

For the MAF? Cut and OBD-II MAF connector off of a junk yard car, cot off stocker, solder and heatshrink into place. It is a straight through design. I did this back when I first SC'd my car in 2005. I originally had the line long enough to go to across the engine bay and into the fender (draw-thru MAF).

 

[ycode90]

Thread jack . How was the draw thru ?

 

[92sho16]

Plugged the Calibration on the Tweecer and it just wont stay running.

Can anybody send me a working calibration just so i can at least get it running and work from there.

Thanks!

Im using the 90mm lightning. I havent had that problem, have you tried raising the idle? Another thing to try is turn the tweecer switch to another position and then back to the one being used then write the tweecer.

 

[SHOWYA]

I have 50lb injectors 50/60 for low and high slopes.. And have the adapter from shonut performance. My idle is at 1050rpm ... What it does is that it hunts for the idle then it eventually dies.

Can any body with a turbo sho post the original maf calibration and maybe one that has been calibrated so i can see the difference.

 

[yamahaSHO]

Have you had a look at this thread? http://www.shoforum.com/showthread.php?t=100584

 

[SHOWYA]

i just did ... went and raised the idle to 1200 and changed the maf calibration to what i calll the jagged maf curve. which keeps it running. seems the sweet spot is between 1v and 1.5v for the idle. i was able to drive it but when i comes to a stop it starts searching for the idle till a come to a complete stop.

plus it runs pig rich. i cant boost it.

 

[92sho16]

i just did ... went and raised the idle to 1200 and changed the maf calibration to what i calll the jagged maf curve. which keeps it running. seems the sweet spot is between 1v and 1.5v for the idle. i was able to drive it but when i comes to a stop it starts searching for the idle till a come to a complete stop.

plus it runs pig rich. i cant boost it.

Did you start having these problems once you changed the maf? Also how did you wire the maf, with a plug n play adapter or did you cut the harness?

 

[SHOWYA]

Did you start having these problems once you changed the maf? Also how did you wire the maf, with a plug n play adapter or did you cut the harness?

plug and play adapter ... yes once i switched MAF.

Another thing that i knowticed is then when the car starts going rich my water temp starts climbing like crazy!

 

[ycode90]

Sounds like a ground or sensor issue.

 

[SHOWYA]

Im going to try Tim's recommendation of going to a draw through instead of blow through. I will have to check on my ground that goes from the engine to firewall.

Question ... when an engine is in boost and you lift off, no matter what the MAF is reading ( being a blow thru or a draw thru setup) it will cut off fuel correct?

 

[ycode90]

Yes .

 

[somedude_001]

if you have a blow off valve instead of a bypass valve won't your part throttle maf signals be screwy with a draw through setup because you will be venting a lot of unused air that was metered?

 

[SHOWYA]

i think its the same since you will be letting off the throttle in order for the system to vent or recirculate... the system (ecu) is still going to cut off fuel ... right? Part throttle should be ok.

 

[Toolman]

if you have a blow off valve instead of a bypass valve won't your part throttle maf signals be screwy with a draw through setup because you will be venting a lot of unused air that was metered?

The worst problem I have ever had with my vent to atmosphere/draw-through setup is that every great once in a while, when you go from full throttle to part throttle very quickly, there would be a hickup. And that only happened when I first got the car. After I leaned out the ridiculously rich SHOSHOP tune, the car had nary an issue. After the Tweecer, and a much better tune, the car drove near perfect. The absolute best case scenario would be to have a draw-through setup with a recirc valve, or a drop in MAF that is meant to be in heated/pressurized air (the 80 and 90 mm FORD MAF's that we all use are not intended for this).

My belief is that nearly ALL the idle issues that S/C SHO's have can be linked to using a draw-through MAF in a blow-through setup. It is certainly a less ideal setup than a draw through and vent to atmosphere valve.

 

[Sho Amo]

whats a good blow through maf?

 

[Toolman]

Pmas hpx