Leaking torque converter - need advice/moral support

[Liquid_force]

So the trans has been leaking fluid when it's hot.
I took it to the area's best non-chain trans shop for an estimate.
$800-900 for TC seal w/new TC and bushing or 2100-2200 for a rebuild.
I'm not really interested in the extra 1000+ for a rebuild right now since it's currently (129K) shifting exactly the same as it did when I started driving it (92K).

I'm researching and trying to decide if this is a task I should take on in my one car garage. I CAN afford the repair, but I try to do my own repair/maintenance whenever possible.
I have very little auto trans work experience but I did swap the a4ld out of my old T-bird in favor of a 5 speed - I did that w/o a donor car, just assembled the parts I needed over time.

Another plus is I have a friend who did a trans removal/installation in his '00 Accord recently who is willing to help.

What surprises/obstacles might there be that you can think of?
I plan to find a top motor support locally (craigs list), if nothing else I can pick up a new one at harbor freight. Same with trans jack.

Lifting the car will be tricky, but I can get something worked out. I'll probably put the rear on ramps and just use a series of lifting/blocking to get the front high enough. I have two small jacks and a pair of jack stands.

What about the seal and bushing? Should these parts be obvious to me once I have the trans out?

And choosing a TC? I only found one option locally - NAPA for $205

Advice? Tips? Encouragement?

DIScouragement?

 

[ThatSHO]

well if you can remove the trans from the car yourself that would save you alot of money but i would recommend opening up the trans and replacing anything that needs replaced since its going to be out of the car anyways. a professional would probably rebuild it cheap if you just brought him the trans and it would save you alot of hassle in the future if you plan on keeping it for a long time.

 

[Liquid_force]

Rebuild isn't really on the table right now.
Like I told the guys at the trans shop -- It's shifting exactly like it did at 92k so I really don't see the point in 600, 700, 1000 more $$ when I have no signs of an internal problem.
Besides, if I can get it out for a TC seal I'm sure I can get it out a year or two from now if I need to have it rebuilt.

Plus, I'm looking at getting this done on a Fri-Sun. I'd need to do some serious planning to have it down for a week or more if I were opting for a rebuild.

ATM I'm having problems pinpointing the correct TC.
I'm finding a F58E-SHO and an F59A.

Rockauto has an option for a '98 with the F58E-SHO designation, along with a ford number - F8DP-7902-BB.

However, when you go through the '99 options there is no TC listed.

Dacco's catalog has the same F8DP-7902-BB number with the F58E-SHO reference and that's for the 96-99.

Some other sites indicate the f59a is the correct part.

So I'm not sure of anything at this point.

 

[SHOdded]

Tried the dealerships?

Don't know which dealership might have it, but I looked up directly on Ford's website, http://www.fordparts.com/Commerce/CatalogResults.aspx?y=1999&m=Ford&mo=Taurus#Search

I think the part number for the 3.4L - 8Cyl, Transaxle 4-Automatic(4F50N) goes something like this: **DZ-7902-BARM.

7902
Ford

Auto Trans Torque Converter
AX4N/4F50N; 3.4L - SHO only; #55,64
$306.15 $244.92 Call Us Add to cart

HTH.

 

[SHOdded]

I am sure someone on here has a factory service manual that can get the exact part number for you. You can get your own manual on EBay:

http://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_sacat=0&_nkw=1999 taurus manual service&_sop=15

 

[SHOZ123]

I use to get mine from DACCO. Never had a problem with the TC.

Here's their catalog along with explanations of the different TCs.

Starts on page 119.

http://www.daccoinc.com/pdfs/catalogs/2012%20Torque%20Converter%20Catalog.pdf

 

[Liquid_force]

I found a shop online called chrisman torque converters that's $90+core.
Given my confusion with identifying the correct part I contacted their CS. The owner replied with great detail about the TC for our cars and their reman. process.

The f58e-sho and e59a are the same part from different rebuilders.

Chrisman has a 1 yr warranty, and the price is right. So I think I've found my TC.

 

[Liquid_force]

I'm elbows deep in the trans removal process.

My instructions say to remove 5 upper trans bolts. I found 4.
Looking at the trans from the driver's side of the engine compartment --
One's above the starter at about the 10 o'clock position, two are at the 12 o'clock position, one's toward the back at about the 2 o'clock position. They all thread from the driver's side toward the passenger's side.

I don't know where the 5th is.
I think I found one at about the 3 o'clock position that threads the opposite direction.
Am I looking in the right place?

 

[SHOZ123]

Did you get the two at the back of the oil pan?

 

[Mr Anonymous]

Back side of engine there's one that goes from the block into the tranny.

 

[Liquid_force]

So far it's been the little things that have really cost me time.

I was having a lot of trouble reaching that 5th trans bolt so I decided to move on to dropping the y-pipe.

The two bolts at the rear ****** were completely bonded in rust. Wouldn't have been too big of a deal to just grind them off, but I don't have a grinder. I ended up using like 6 cut-off blades on my rotary too. I'm not going to tell you how long that took me.
The four at the exhaust man's broke loose okay.

My next dilemma is the O2 sensors. I have 4 disconnected, but there's a 5th one on the back side I simply can't get access to.

Anyway -- slowly figuring things out as I go, but VERY slowly.

 

[SHOZ123]

I've found a set of those long needle nose pliers works well for the unaccessible connectors.

I think I have a new set of Ford exhaust manifold studs and nuts.

 

[Liquid_force]

It hasn't gone exceptionally well.
I have been at it for over 20 hrs. About 10 of that included a good helpler.
Everything came out without too many complications.
Had some hang ups working with the TC, but eventually it was ready to go back together.
Getting the Trans/TC/Engine realigned and pulled together has been a super headache.
As it sits there's still an inch or so left for the trans to mate up with the motor.
So basically I'm just over halfway and I have no more help.
It's going to take a small miracle to get close to finishing today.

Of course, it's not going to get done if I'm on here all morning venting.

 

[SHOZ123]

My first trans was replaced in the car by a local shop. After seeing the hassle I found it easier to drop the whole subframe. But that's me.

You can try drawing it in at the two sleeved points but it should go together easily when doing this.

 

[My_Silver_SHO]

Make sure you have bolts in TQ lined up with flexplate when you get close.

Hang in there bud, this is the hardest part.

 

[Liquid_force]

TC is already bolted tight - I haven't given them final torque yet.

At this point I wish I had left the TC bolts loose to give things some more play as I try to bring them together.

Everything is lined up, it's just not coming together.

I WAS going to the crank bolt and rolling it back and forth a few degrees as I tried pulling it together. Now, with quite a bit of force on the crank bolt it is not rotating at all.

Which makes me think I have something bound up on the inside.

Fabulous.

 

[Mr Anonymous]

TC is already bolted tight - I haven't given them final torque yet.

At this point I wish I had left the TC bolts loose to give things some more play as I try to bring them together.

Everything is lined up, it's just not coming together.

I WAS going to the crank bolt and rolling it back and forth a few degrees as I tried pulling it together. Now, with quite a bit of force on the crank bolt it is not rotating at all.

Which makes me think I have something bound up on the inside.

Fabulous.

You can't do it this way. Pump shaft came out of it's slot on the converter and you're now risking damaging the splines. You need to start over again.

Remove tranny, re-seat the converter all the way on the pump shaft if you can, and then re-install the tranny. The converter nuts are the LAST things to install after the rest of the tranny bolts are in and tightened.

 

[Liquid_force]

Thanks.

I'll adjust accordingly.

 

[Liquid_force]

Yep, much smoother.
Trans is flushed.
Gotta bolt it up, put nuts on the TC and rebuild.
Gonna be another great day...uhh, couple days.

 

[SHO#7]

How did the bushing look in the torque converter. I hope it was not worn, as most likely it will still leak when hot. The stator is a good source for front seal leaks.

I assume you changed the front seal also...

Mike