Knock, Rattle and Tick! HELP!

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mechjames

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My car has just developed a big issue, here I'll let you hear it in the video:
[YOUTUBE]oC84ypZ76SY[/YOUTUBE]
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oC84ypZ76SY
It's had a tiny little valve tick for a while, and I was going to do another 60K this winter (was supposidely done last year sometime before I bought the car in October)

Does it sound like a shim might have popped out? Something rattling or knocking from the timing cover? Doesn't sound like a rod bearing to me (and the oil pressure light isn't coming on either)

I'm going to pull the intake and the valve covers, but does anyone have any idea just by listening to that video what I should look for?

First time pulling the intake and valve covers off a SHO, wish me luck
 
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ycode90

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Can't tell alot from the video butt it sounds more like a knock (deep hollow sound) . Valvetrain issues normally tic . I wouldn't run it at all till you find out what it was .
 

mechjames

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I've got the intake off and working to pull the valve covers off now. Hopefully just a shim, I don't feel like doing rod bearings.

It seems like it's valvetrain related, because when it makes that noise it lops/misses at idle.
 

220ksho

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ditto on the rod bearing. The knock frequency matches the rpm. If it was a shim, the knocking would be slower since the cams spin at 1/2 the speed of the crank.
 

kevinspann

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Your trans might be the next to blow up if you keep doing the burnouts in this video

[youtube]88tDi_9oX1A&feature=related[/youtube]

Edit: ATX, but even those have blown diffs before.


And your motor sounds bad....
 
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mechjames

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Ughh that's beyond bearings . Let the part out begin . RIP

...yeah, um, ok with your logic I suppose

I use the car as my daily driver, and other then the knock that just developed, it ran and drove perfect.

After I change the bearings, make sure that I don't have to resize the crank/rods, it will be on the road again, doing daily driver duty, as it always has, hopefully always will be.
 

jayro

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After I change the bearings, make sure that I don't have to resize the crank/rods, it will be on the road again, doing daily driver duty, as it always has, hopefully always will be.

Pull the oil pan and take a look at everthing. If you damaged your crank, then you are most likely looking at a rebuild. You will atleast want to replace the rod in which the bearing spun and a good used crank. Problem with having the crank turned down is that it removes the surface hardening layer and can cause the crank to fail. Hopefully any damage is something minor that could be polished out. Also, with swapping parts around you would probably want to have everything balanced. May be easier just to get a new block/rotating assembly.
 

operdot

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I'm surprised no one has mentioned the tbelt tensioner, since this is an atx.

Before you pull the oilpan I would invest in a mechanics stethoscope ... 5$ tool that can save your engine.
 

kevinspann

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ATX tensioner doesn't exactly increase directly with RPM...it doesn't sound like the tensioner to me personally. I guess he could check it, it's not too hard.
 

operdot

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ATX tensioner will not send knocking sounds to the oil pan. Get a stethoscope and listen to the oil pan, if you hear loud knocks, then its rod bearings. If you only head knocks on the top end then its something else.
 

Rubix

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moarspannynoobpwnageftw, classic :rofl:

Anyway, that's most certainly not a timing belt tensioner knock.
 

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