just finished swap-need some help

[rcsavage]

alright i got my 3.2 in and buttoned up. i knew it wouldnd just start up and be perfect. im having a few issues. upon startup, it starts quickly, but you instantly know somethings wrong.

it idles very roughly, barely wanting to stay alive. the teach bounces around and goes dead every once-in-a while.(the CPS is brand new and gapped correctly.) also, the temp gauge bounces all around its range and then some, passing the maximum and minimum temp readings.

my whole dash lights up(not the pressure light) the hazards light up but my turn signals arent on and the hazard button isnt on. the EATC flashes randomly. obviously i have an electrical problem, but im more worried about my new 3.2 not idling nicely

have an idea of what i could have missed, forgot to attach, forgot to reinstall, anything. thanks.

Edit: also, if i try to rev it quickly, the revs drop then come up. i know this is probably a sensor but i just cant remember which one.

 

[AREA 91]

Start by reading the codes.
Check your grounds.

 

[SHOtime2511]

Start by reading the codes.
Check your grounds.

i just hope you dident pinch the harness somewhere.
BTW im glad to see you did that swap,it way too nice of a car to part away

 

[rcsavage]

thanks guys, ill check the codes. i know of the ground that runs from the intake manifold to the firewall and the one that runs out of the harness and to the block between the heads but where else is there one?

also, i dont think the harness is pinched since i dropped the engine and tranny in first, then layed the harness around it.

thanks for the help so far and any other suggestions are more than welcomed

 

[rcsavage]

ok guys i really need your help here. there are no KOEO codes and i cannon run a KOER because the gauges are all messed up and the lights dont like to actually do their job and work like their supposed to. what kind of bad connection on the engine wiring harness would cause the interior lights to become messed up, make the temp gauge absolutly go wild, and keep the engine from running well. the tach bounces around constanty and provides no accurate reading. please anybody, i need to get this car fixed.

 

[rcsavage]

ok, i figured out why the dashlights were freaking out. i forgot to connect a ground on the drivers side firewall. now my gauges and lights are good and are behaving properly. the engine still runs like poo. i swapped the MAF sensor with a know to be working unit and nothing still. can anybody think of another sensor that could have gotten damaged. im at wits end and need this car to be done.

 

[rcsavage]

ok got this. may have tripped it when i was pulling sensors to see if it affected the engine:
54 Intake Air Temperature (IAT) or Vane Air Temperature (VAT) signal high - IAT VAT

what sensor does this point to?

 

[AREA 91]

Did you gap the CPS?
A cam semsor will cause poor starting, and stumbling.
Check your codes first, that will point you in the right direction.

 

[rcsavage]

yes i did gap the cps and the only codes it throws are for senssors i had disconnected to see if they would affect the engine.

EDIT: i used the 3.2L fuel injectors but i dont know if they were good. im not sure how long they sat, but could a bad fuel injector cause my problems? the car revs all the way up but it doesnt respond quickly. if i give it a quick rev, it bogs then revs, and when it comes back down, it sometimes stalls.

 

[SHOtime2511]

yes i did gap the cps and the only codes it throws are for senssors i had disconnected to see if they would affect the engine.

EDIT: i used the 3.2L fuel injectors but i dont know if they were good. im not sure how long they sat, but could a bad fuel injector cause my problems? the car revs all the way up but it doesnt respond quickly. if i give it a quick rev, it bogs then revs, and when it comes back down, it sometimes stalls.

yeah ive heard that if an engine sets for sometime that the injectors car become cloged.again id look into the cam sensor maybe causing this.
also are both the bolts that hold the crossover tube to the intake there and tight?

 

[rcsavage]

the cam sensor is relatively new. and the bolts are tight.

 

[93rev2sev]

Any vacuum leaks?

 

[rcsavage]

not sure how i would check for those. could you give me some spots to look and what to look for?

 

[JustinSane]

pretty much any where on the intake that there is a boot or gasket or vacumm hose, again make sure you have all the grounds right and that the ground cable at your battery isnt junked inside the terminal. no codes and a issue like this can be tricky. did you drive the 3.2 before the swap? or at least hear it run ? oh and for the vacuum leaks try spraying some carb cleaner around the intake boots and all other possible gaskets if you hear the engines RPM change you have a leak, however this dont sound like a vacuum leak to me, it sounds more like a electrical problem, sensor, grounds, and any of the other electronic parts in the fuel and ignition system.

 

[rcsavage]

could someone list the grounds that i should check. i only know of two on the harness. i have never heard or seen this engine run before, but it looked great when i opened it up. ill try the carb cleaner trick but im with you about it being electrical. something else that someone suggested was timing. so ill check the timing belt if the carb trick doesn't work.

 

[rcsavage]

alright guys, update.

there are no vacuum leaks.
the timing belt is aligned properly.
the front bank cams are alligned correctly(havent gotten to the back yet). im going to pull the rear valve cover and check the cam alignment on that.

i have a small side question. the marks on the cam chains dont line up with the cam gears everytime(i know this is correct) but instead of sitting there trying to turn the engine over until they line up, i can assume that as long as both cams have their bolts (on the drivers side of the cam) aligned flush with the mating surface of the head, they are aligned correctly right?

when we pulled the intake we could see lots of dirt on the 2, 3, 5, and 6 intake ports on the heads. the plugs from those pistons were dark. i assume it was very rich. 1 and 4 intake ports are very clean, just like brand new, and the plugs were a good color, not dark but not white from running lean.

im going to either send the 3.2 injectors out to be rebuilt or throw my Known-to-be-working 3.0 injectors in.

maybe after this, it will run correctly. i believe my problem lies with the fuel injectors dumping too much fuel thus causing it to run rich and bog and want to constantly die. can fuel injectors become stuck wide open? thanks alot guys for your help so far.