Just bought a 2011 SHO

[04lss]

Hi, I just bought a 2011 SHO, I normally dont buy warranties, but do to some financing things, i got to drive the car for a while (after a signed to buy it) before the numbers finalized. So I ended up getting the ford ESP
Car has 88k miles on it.
I have a few questions for fellow owners.

Does your car idle rough?
Is it kind of jerky when you let it move on idle or with the breaks?
Do your radiator fans stay on a lot (no temp spikes)

Do you have any hard shifts? mine shifts hard into 4th every time

Does your car feel jerky in 6th gear on the interstate?

Is there a way to disable Dynamic cruise control, and just use regular? My sensor is not working and its at least a week from being seen by the dealer.

 

[SHOdded]

Welcome & congrats! Sounds like your SHO is due for some basic maintenance, including spark plugs, trans fluid, PTU & RDU fluids. Also brake & coolant at some point. The brakes on the 2010-12 were kinda meh from the factory so they could have all kinds of issues affecting braking and driveability. Be sure to inspect closely.

The online owner's manual is available here:
https://owner.ford.com/tools/account/how-tos/owner-manuals-search-results.html#/ymm/2011/Ford/Taurus
specifically
http://www.fordservicecontent.com/Ford_Content/catalog/owner_guides/11tauog3e.pdf

Not sure what you can do to disable the ADAPTIVE portion of cruise control. You can try pulling Fuse 13 in the underhood fuse box (15 amp) and see what happens.

 

[rubydist]

if you go into settings, there is a selection for "normal" or "adaptive" on the cruise control.

 

[Chris Horner]

Mine idles a bit rough when stone cold, but is smooth as silk when warm. The rougher idle cold from reading the forums seems to be a characteristic of the car.

 

[04lss]

if you go into settings, there is a selection for "normal" or "adaptive" on the cruise control.

I tried going into settings (the one accessable using the display in the instrument panel.) I only found settings for the collision warning.

 

[04lss]

What sort of 0-60 times do you get? I managed a 5.8 at best. then the next two attempts got into the low 6 second range. I thought the SHO was a low 5 seconds 0-60

 

[SHOdded]

5.2 to 5.3 0-60 stock is normal per mag reviews, allegedly with a 1 foot rolling start (?) Pretty easy to get into low 4 sec with tune (93 octane or better), even break into the 3's with minimal boltons. Car MUST be in tiptop shape of course, ie, owner has to be OCD regarding maintenance

 

[04lss]

5.2 to 5.3 0-60 stock is normal per mag reviews, allegedly with a 1 foot rolling start (?) Pretty easy to get into low 4 sec with tune (93 octane or better), even break into the 3's with minimal boltons. Car MUST be in tiptop shape of course, ie, owner has to be OCD regarding maintenance

Where do I start getting it back into form? I was thinking trans flush, plugs, and a Fuel system cleaner. The car has a LiverNoise Intake on it, but as far as I can tell that's it. I plan to get a 3bar map, tstat tune and plugs, but id really like to get it close to stock speeds BEFORE modding it.

Side note, How does your car ride on the interstate? I hit some large bumps and it was pretty harsh not to mention from time to time a bump would make it change direction somewhat. ( I already had it aligned)

 

[SHOdded]

For a SHO at 88K miles, it's like a fire sale, everything has to go Assuming at this point there are no noises or symptoms ...

1. Trans fluid, PTU fluid, RDU fluid. Make note of any debris in the fluid. Hopefully won't be anything more than some "flakes"/very fine material. OK to use Motorcraft, just be aware that regular maintenance intervals will be your friend.
   
2. Spark plugs, SP534. Check for presence of oil in the well/on the COP boot.
3. Use good quality oil, use the weight specified on the filler cap (5W30 on the 2011?); at LEAST Motorcraft SynBlend, or better with a quality full synthetic oil. Oil filter Motorcraft is great, change interval depends on how enthusiastic your driving is, 5K or less preferred. Don't depend on the IOLM for best results.
   
4. Verify that all turbo-related hoses are in good condition, and clamped on properly. They like to come loose or split in hidden places, so you will have to feel around the underside also, check for presence of oil/grime accumulation.
5. Check the intercooler for oil/fuel/water mix, ie, crud. You can take the hose off and use a dipstick or a borescope for this purpose. An accumulation should be cleared and watched periodically.
   
6. Check piping for POOLING oil. A light misting is usually OK.
7. Clean MAP sensors with MAF cleaner.
8. Preferred to flush brake fluid and coolant at this time also.
9. Check struts and shocks carefully for leaks. That would be the most likely reason why the suspension is not able to deal with bumps, though you have to realize that the SHO suspension is not going to be as soft as a lower trimmed Taurus. Should not be harsh under normal conditions though, per my definition of "harsh" of course If the SHO has been lowered, that puts more wear & tear on the OEM struts/shocks.
   
10. Check wheels carefully for signs of cracks, and make sure the alignment includes roadforce balancing.
11. Tie rods do go out on these cars. Sometimes control arm bushing also. Would check swaybar links at this time, though less likely.
12. Tires can actually be at fault, if they have not worn evenly, usually due to alignment issues, sometimes due to poor manufacturing. What tires are currently on the SHO, and how much tread remaining? Any cracks on the sidewalls?

If you want to run a fuel system cleaner, my personal preference is to run the Techron Concentrate (3,000 mile version) or BG 44K. They are still not going to prevent carbon buildup on the back of the intake valves though, that's the job of a good PCV system (supported by good oil) and possibly a catch can. If there is significant carbon, leave it to the pros to get it cleared out (soaking the valves overnite, walnut shell blasting, etc) so it does not enter the combustion chamber.

I do not have a SHO btw, wish I did, but no room/budget for it at this point ...

 

[04lss]

The tires are Brand new good year Eagles, (put on by the dealer before purchase)
Do I need to get the car on a lift to scope out all of the piping?
Im going to be running amsoil signature 5w30 or Valvoline maxlife full syn.

as far as the suspension, my 15 jetta, is MUCh more compliant.

What do I use to clean the MAP sensor? I know they make MAF sensor cleaner.

The trans has some nasty shifting, and its jerky in 6th, so im hoping I can get them to replace it under warranty.
In regards to the fuel system cleaner, I was talking about the fuel inducting cleaning offered by the Dealer.

 

[SHOdded]

Except for one intrepid owner, I generally don't hear good things about the Eagles, the F1 is a pretty good tire though shortlived.

If you can get the car on jackstands, and take the bellypan off, you can inspect the turbo inlet (aside from leaks in other areas), and that would be great. If there's any pooling oil there, you MAY have a turbo seal leak (early warning). Lift obviously would be safer, but having the car up on all 4 corners on flat/level ground works too.

Either of those full synths should be fine, Amsoil would be my choice based on people's input. You might want to first change with Motorcraft Synblend, then very shortly after (maybe 1 tank of gas) change with the Amsoil or Valvoline. That way the remaining oil does not contaminate the new full synth oil nearly as much.

Yes, MAF cleaner for MAP sensors. Spray liberally, air dry.

If the dealer is offering the fuel induction cleaning (BG?), and will warranty it in writing, go for it. I would only be worried about the aforementioned carbon buildup breaking off a chunk (if it's a lot) and causing major damage to the turbos. But if they warranty against that, and will bear any costs, then ok.

Def have them fix the trans under warranty. It may just need a fluid change, but as a cautious person, may want to have the dealership inspect first, and before you put a lot of miles on the SHO.

 

[04lss]

My dad works at an autoshop and ive arranged to get it on a lift this Saturday ( I live in an apartment so doing it there is a no go.
By belly pan do you mean the oil pan, or the plastic cover under the engine? I plan to scope out all of the tubing I can see, though im not quite sure what to look for, besides an obvious split, though if I had one, id think id have less performance.

Separate note, Ive read you need to remove the plenum to change the rear plugs, whats the replacement gasket that I would need? I tried searching for a plenum gasket with no luck.

 

[SHOdded]

The bellypan = plastic cover under the engine. Have to remove it to do the oil/filter change.

Depends on what stage you catch the problem of split pipes in. May/may not affect performance just yet.

Spark Plug replacement HOW TO
http://www.ecoboostperformanceforum.com/index.php/topic,1980.0.html

I think you are referring to the naturally aspirated version of the 3.5, there you HAVE to remove the upper intake manifold to get to the rear plugs/coils. Here you do have to make some space for the #3, and that's covered in the HOWTO.

 

[rubydist]

yeah, the Eagles seem to be very widely variable in their rubber compounding, hence the stickiness of the tires varies widely. A few people have loved them, more have not, in my experience. Hopefully, you got one of the good sets.

 

[SilverSH0]

What a lot of people don't realize is there are many different Goodyear Eagle tires. What I've found from talking to people is they tend to think Goodyear Eagle tires are all the same and thus the variation. A lot of people don't even know what version they have. Then to add even more confusion they now even make a Goodyear Eagle F1 all season tire.

I had the F1 Supercar tires on my old Mustang and loved them minus the lifespan. When I get new tires for the SHO I'll be getting the same tires again. But I wouldn't recommend for a DD car due to the short life.

 

[PonySHO]

I did a lot of research on the Goodyear Eagle F1 Supercar tires when I ordered my '15. Based on the reviews, I got BF Goodrich g-Force Comp 2s put on before I took delivery. The F1s are a great tire if you live in AZ or NM where it is hot and dry most of the time. When it's cool and wet though, a couple reviews actually called them dangerous. I'm probably being **** about it, but I didn't want to have to worry about the tires in early Spring or late Fall... I live in Western New York. Ford and Goodyear put out a disclaimer not to run the tires when it gets down to 50F. I read a thread that someone got Michelin Pilots on their SHO with PP. Great tire, but expensive and short lived. The only thing I don't like about the Comp 2s is they are a bit noisey. Nothing like a mud tire on a 4x4, but it is noticeable.

 

[Mark Perlman]

I just got a set of continental sure contact rx. They are fantastic somewhat sticky with a warranty (45000 I believe). They claim better fuel mileage but I seem to have lost about 1 mpg plus continental has some other perks like 3 years of roadside assistance and a 30 day period that you can return them if you don't like them. Unfortunately they are only available at Big O tire and their other east coast company.