Jeremy Stranded- Needs HELP ASAP

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SHOfun 93

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This is Jeremy's wife, Melanie. Our '95 keeps blowing the #1 fuse and the car will not move out of park because #1 fuse is out. He is stranded in Amarillo. If anyone has any ideas about where to fix this, please call him on his cell phone and he will call you as soon as his game is finished. Cell # 432-770-3141. Posted Monday, 11-22-2004 6:48pm.
 

AutoSHO

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Chances are it is the switch on the bottom of the master cylinder - has to do with the cruise control, but will blow the #1 fuse if it goes bad. Unlpugging it should take care of the problem.

I left a voicemail message, hopefully he can get it taken care of.
 

SHOfun 93

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Chris,
Where exactly is this at? Under the hood? I am at a college using a coache's computer right now.

I'll call you after the game...

It is only popping when I apply the brakes, but if the switch is putting a load on the fuse, would that cause it to be too much when the brakes are applied?

I dunno...
 

Mr Anonymous

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If all else fails, just put the car in neutral before starting the car, you will then be able to shift freely and further diagnose the deactivator switch on the M/C when you get home.
 

SHOfun 93

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Got it home..(thanks guys)

To take the problem a step further....

I have headlights, rear lights, etc.... I did notice that the turn stalk works when I click to the left, but when I click to the right, it gives off an electric sounding noise and won't activate.

..aaaand I still can't hold a fuse in slot one without it blowing as soon as I apply the brake...

..on a side note, I think the cold air picked up a bit of water last night and now the car is running rough and is down on power....I didn't ruin my motor, did I? Like I said, it is acting like it is trying to burn it off, but still was running rough up to 1 a.m. last night...

Food for thought..gotta go to work....
 

projectSHO89

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Did you unplug the cruise deactivator switch located on the bottom of the brake master cyclinder?

If not, do so and that will likely stop the fuse F1 from blowing when you hit the brakes.

Of course, then the cruise won't work...

Steve
 

SHO Type U

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When you disconnect the cruise control module, check your horn, it might not work. Horns do work great when u need them.

FYI
 

SHOfun 93

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I disconnected the module below the master cylinder and still is blowing fuse #1 constantly...I need to go to bed 2 hours of sleep..

Like I said when I turn the turnstalk to the right (indicator) I get an electrical buzzin noise when I try to get it to come on. Left signal works fine....
 

91 SHOplus

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I don't know if the MFS is connected to that line or not. I was thinking the Boo switch, as solidstate mentioned.

Even if the MFS is not the culprit, it should be checked anyway, before it causes another problem down the road.
 

SHOfun 93

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SolidState said:
did you check the brake on/off switch?

Are you referring to the switch behind the brake pedal? I had it go bad on the 92 and all it did was not disengage the cruise control....would it cause the fuse to constantly blow like this?
 

SolidState

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I don't have the diagrams in front of me, but a bad BOO switch can cause lack of brake lights and a host of other problems...your rear lights would still function, just not your brake lights...

you also wouldn't be able to shift out of gear...
 

NoSlo

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how about unplugging the cruise control module and unplugging the cruise control cutout switch from the bottom of the brake master cylinder? That'll **** fuse #1 on an ATX if the module connectors are corroded or the cutout switch is bad or shorted to ground.
 

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NoSlo said:
how about unplugging the cruise control module and unplugging the cruise control cutout switch from the bottom of the brake master cylinder? That'll **** fuse #1 on an ATX if the module connectors are corroded or the cutout switch is bad or shorted to ground.


I totally agree here. For some reason when the cruise deactivation switch on the bottom of the Master cylinder starts leaking it will leak through the wires into the cruise control module. and start blowing fuses. You will pull it apart and find alot of fluid in there. Unplug both and clean everything up well with brake cleaner replace switch and dielectric grease everything.
 

Slo-Sho

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SHOfun 93 said:
but when I click to the right, it gives off an electric sounding noise and won't activate.


I would also check the rear tail light wiring harness. Physically examine the right side sockets and associated wiring for shorts/corrosion behind the trunk liner. Try unplugging both right side brake bulbs and flip the right side turn signal to see if it still blows.
 

SHOfun 93

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NoSlo said:
how about unplugging the cruise control module and unplugging the cruise control cutout switch from the bottom of the brake master cylinder? That'll **** fuse #1 on an ATX if the module connectors are corroded or the cutout switch is bad or shorted to ground.

Unplugged the Cruise Control Cutout swtich THAT NIGHT with no change in status...wiring harness and bulbs on the right side rear looked fine. I have yet to check the front or disconnect the CCM by the radiator...
Thanks for all the ideas guys...
 

SHOfun 93

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Solved!

Found out to be a bad MFS causing the load on the number 1 fuse and popping it when I applied the brakes....just for your reference...Thank GOD for parts cars, especially trying to find the motorcrap part # on a Sunday! :D
 

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