Jack Stands... HELP!

[rcryniak]

OK, so I'm just about to lift the car, and I'm looking underneath it, and the ONLY place I can see to put it on stands would be the suspension or the pinch welds (the latter per the manual for the crazy cheapo scissor jack types)... I imagine lifts at a garage don't have an issue in the pinch weld area - I imagine that have some groove thing or rubber or something... where do I lift and where do I put the stands, so I don't crush anything on the car - or crush myself (gulp!) Is there a special way to orient the stands, etc.? Is it safe to do all four stands? I intend to rotate the tires too. Now I'm getting a little nervous - call it first-timer butterflies or whatever.

Here's what I purchased (4 in all):

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00026Z3DQ?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_search_detailpage

 

[RAYJAY]

Jacking and Lifting
WARNING: When jacking or lifting the vehicle, block all wheels remaining on the ground. Set the parking brake if the rear wheels will remain on the ground. These actions help prevent unintended vehicle movement. Failure to follow these instructions may result in serious personal injury.

WARNING: Never get underneath a vehicle that is supported only by a jack. The jack could unintentionally lower. Always support vehicle with floor stands. Failure to follow these instructions may result in serious personal injury.

WARNING: Only raise the vehicle when positioned on a hard, level surface. Attempting to raise the vehicle on an uneven or soft surface may result in vehicle slipping or falling from the jack or jackstand. Failure to follow this instruction may result in serious personal injury.

WARNING: Position the hoist lift arms as shown in the illustration. Incorrect positioning could result in vehicle slipping or falling from the hoist. Failure to follow this instruction may result in serious personal injury.

NOTICE: The jack provided with the vehicle is intended to be used in an emergency for changing a deflated tire. To avoid damage to the vehicle, never use the jack to hoist the vehicle for any other purpose.

NOTICE: Damage to the suspension, exhaust or steering linkage components may occur if care is not exercised when positioning the hoist adapters prior to lifting the vehicle.

NOTICE: To prevent possible damage to the underbody, do not drive the vehicle onto the drive-on lift without first checking for possible interference.

Front and Rear — Jacking and Lifting Points

 

[rcryniak]

Thanks, pinch welds it is...

 

[rcryniak]

It's in the air... and I'm terrified to get under. Then I found where the oil plug is, can't get it open. Don't want to use too much force, right? <sigh>

 

[RAYJAY]

It's in the air... and I'm terrified to get under. Then I found where the oil plug is, can't get it open. Don't want to use too much force, right? <sigh>

you may have to give it a good bump with your hand, and use the box end of the wrench, remember if the dealership changed it last they did it from a lift

 

[rcryniak]

OK, thanks for the tip. For now, I've already lowered it and put that shield thingy back on. Now I'm wondering if one of those fumoto valves isn't just the most awesome idea ever. Should I get one to avoid this problem in the future? Anyone have thoughts on that?

Here's the real question - I couldn't figure out how to lift it at the factory lift point AND put a jack stand under it at the same location, just didn't seem possible to me. So I went as close as I could along the pinch weld, and lifted there - and when I did, the ENTIRE side of the car lifted up!! Crazy stuff. Got both stands for that side under, and did the same to the other side. I really, really didn't like putting that kind of lateral pressure on the wheels like that, it felt weird to me. I would have felt better doing front then back if I could, but I don't see how that'd be possible... except perhaps in the front, I noticed a couple of super big bolt areas that seemed to bolt together parts of the framing that seems to be holding the engine/transmission in place? (I don't know the correct words for that.) Is that a safe lift point???

Anyhow, here's where I wound up doing it, lifting with the floor jack at the red points, and jacks under the black points. I was hoping to do all four off the ground anyhow, seeing as I was planning on rotating the tires... I'll do it tomorrow.

 

[SHOnUup4]

That's how I lift mine and use the stands. Jack goes on that small opening to pinch weld and stands go closer to wheels.

Mine only started lifting the entire side at once after the coilovers were installed. Sucks when you forget to undo both sets of lugs thinking it's only going to lift the corner.

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[RAYJAY]

i hope by spring i get my lift installed ......

 

[rcryniak]

That's how I lift mine and use the stands. Jack goes on that small opening to pinch weld and stands go closer to wheels. Mine only started lifting the entire side at once after the coilovers were installed.

Well, then I guess I'm in good company! Now if I can only get that stupid plug out. Anyone like those quick oil drain valves? Work buddy highly recommends them, and now I see why I think. What a PITA. I was already terrified to get under a 4400 lbs vehicle - to make it worse by having to hammer the wrench with my hand? Uhhh... I'm thinking have the dealer do this last change, install the drain valve, and THEN I'll take over. (Yes, I feel like a total wuss hahha.)

EDIT: BTW... is it bad for the wheels/suspension to have most of the car's weight on it when it's tilted on it's side like that??

i hope by spring i get my lift installed ......

I wanted one of them soooo bad. I would just feel sooo much more confident under a lift. I even priced out and found that MaxJaxx would be best application for me. However. As it would happen, the garage flooring needs to be TOTALLY redone to support that, which (the way it's built, like a bridge with walls) would involve just building a new garage for $65k or so. So a lift is out of the question because it goes from a $1500? project to a $66500 project overnight lol. yuck.

 

[SHOnUup4]

I'm under mine alot while on 4 jackstands...full weight on breaker bar checking downpipes, no worries.

When you put it up on stands, I bet you'd be hard pressed to push it off them by hand.




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[RAYJAY]

once car is on jack stands its not going anywhere......

also with the lift you should only have to cut out a 4 foot x 16 foot section of concrete to install.

check on that forum i listed lots of great ideas for your shop

 

[rcryniak]

The concrete problem - that's an interesting option, but I'm still not sure if replacing a section's even an option. It's not a concrete bed over a gravel foundation or anything like that - it's a walkout basement, and there's a storage room under the garage (very large storage room which is awesome)... to pour concrete, there's a steel plate over steel girders. (Like a bridge construction.) The steel plate is very, very badly rusted, and leaky (I actually just installed polyvinyl flooring for waterproofing) so I'd never be able to pour concrete onto any part of that. The inspector says the steel plating is OK that it's rusted because it's not structural now that the concrete has hardened. It's the girders to worry about, and they're fine. So anyhow, I'm thinking a lift still isn't an option for me without a garage rebuild. Entire floor = new walls = new garage. Seems to me... floor section = replacing rusted steel plates = new floor = new walls = new garage. Lol. Sucks. I'll see about having someone come in and evaluate my options for a partial like that though - maybe they'll have some ideas how to pour and preserve the existing structure.

 

[rcryniak]

Unless of course I put in this type:

http://www.bendpak.com/car-lifts/specialty-lifts/lr-60p.aspx

I could see that working... especially with jack stands put in as backups. Also would make for a less stressful lifting since I wouldn't be cocking the car to one whole side.

 

[rcryniak]

ok, wife just gave me "hellz no" eyes. <sigh>

 

[sperold]

In your situation, the weight of the car sitting on 4 tires in your 2nd floor garage is exactly equal to your car sitting on a 4 post pedestal lift system. If it is a 2 post system, your loading is doubled, but probably still within design.
Talk to a structural engineer for an opinion, and where to place your post system, knowing where the structural beams are located. If you have your house plans, it will even be easier.

 

[rcryniak]

OOOkay... so... Mission Accomplished!! Using a hardwood plywood sheet under the floor jack (as well as the jack stands) seemed to help a LOT with the tilt factor, since the floor jack was able to roll much more freely. Anyhow, had much more courage to get under there today, and managed to FINALLY get the oil plug out!! It took a 24" breaker bar and just about all my might, but I got it free!! Oil was a bit black (much more so than I would have expected for full synthetic, but what do I know!) Bottom line... my very first oil & filter change is complete!! WOOT!!!



I also took the wheels off and rotated them criss-cross style, but cleaned them inside and out first with some wheel cleaner. Scraped off some old balancing weight goo that someone left there. I've NO idea why someone wouldn't bother to clean up after themselves properly. Anyhow... also inspected the suspension and the brakes while I was there. I have some questions about brakes but I have another thread going for them soooo... is this too much rust??? It looks... absolutely... horrible!! Like it's going to snap in two!! The boots look fine though, no fraying, cracking or corrosion.

 

[SHO4Peachie]

Thank you to all above.
Learned a lot from this discussion!!
Enjoy the ride!!

 

[shaker281]

Race Ramps for oil changes...not cheap, but worth every penny. These even work on my lowered GT500.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003ZAGI9E/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

 

[Jeff2017]

Race Ramps for oil changes...not cheap, but worth every penny. These even work on my lowered GT500.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003ZAGI9E/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I use Rhino Ramps. They work fine and are a heck of a lot cheaper than race ramps. I have 4 and I don't think they cost more then $20 a piece.

 

[Jeff2017]

Rhino Ramps. $40 fpr 2

https://shop.advanceautoparts.com/p...pl78qLZct2JhFf_Qr-UaAn95EALw_wcB&gclsrc=aw.ds