Isolating Engine Knocking

[DETSHO]

Okay I am the guy with the cladding/knocking in my 169K 3.2L, okay I already know that I will be needing new valve cover gaskets anyway. I have a knocking/cladding that is in the top of my motor right by the "SHO" on the manifold. Now it goes away after about 1700rpm while im driving I am going to dig into A-SAP, but everything is wet in Michigan right now, i will wait later on the week for good weather so i can lay down on the concrete if needed. Does anyone know if this could be an ejected shim? Would that cause a top-front end noise from the engine? If not, can any point me in the right direction, I have a digital camera I borrowed and will take pics of my valvetrain.

I don't about any other of the gaskets I will see once I take off the intake manifold and the valve cover so I know I will need a torque wrench (lbs-ft, right?), Metric socket wrench set with at least 6" of extensions, 10, 12, 15 and 19mm open-end/box wrenches, 5/8" spark plug socket, 19mm socket for crank damper bolt, Needlenose and Channel-lock pliers for hose clamps, Tappet compressor, Tappet holder with lanyard (string), Feeler gauge set (0.10 – 0.40mm), Shim pick set with magnet to remove shims, and a Suction, vacuum pump or compressed air to remove liquid from plug wells. Will my local auto zone carry ALL these things I will need if not let me know the sources I need to get them from.

 

[DavidT]

yes, that will cause top end noise, but so will other things.
If you haven't had the gaskets/seals replaced in over 60K, you may want to go ahead and order them. I have the parts list and best prices (written by sdpatt). I can email them to you if you don't have it.
Make sure your sockets are 6 pt. (especially the 19mm!)
OTC has the shim tools for around $40. 1-800-533-6127 or 1-507-455-7000 and their website is OTCtools.com.
Autozone should have everything else.
Oh yeah, if you are not "real experienced" at this, get the 60k video by Mark Nunnally. $20. This video allows even inexperienced dummies (like myself) access to do front end AND top end work thumbs_u
Good luck!

<small>[ April 05, 2003, 09:22 AM: Message edited by: dkautumna ]</small>

 

[luigisho]

On the top end you won't need to get on the ground. When you have the valve covers off first thing to do is look for the oil return holes in the corners and cover them to keep tools and bolts and such from falling down there. There have been several people who lost something and didn't even see it drop down in there.

 

[DETSHO]

I went on the OTC website and searched in alot of search engine for those shim tools.
Is the part number and name something like this
303-344 Tappet compressor
303-345 Tappet holder
I searched for those and I can't find them

 

[DETSHO]

Oh and another thing is I NEED to go and see my aunt in the hospital today so I will have drive my car as much as I don't want to, I know for those young SHO owners out there who do not have the money to have 2 or 3 other cars like alot of guys on here have to make these type of decisions.....anyway I don't have everything i need now like the shim tools and the 60K video, but the rest i can get right away so i was gonna wait. If I am going to drive it today, should the first thing I do is an oil change to get the 20W-50 out of there and put some 5W-30 synethic like I was using before?

 

[DavidT]

OK, I read up on your problem. You have what I have... so it sounds. I emailed a video clip to a sho specialist. He said it was NOT bearings, rather he suggested checking the timing chain tensioners. If they get worn, they can slap the valve covers. They are at the far right side of the valve covers (nearest the throttle body).
I had a 60K done shortly before it started
Sometimes it sounds SCARY. It doesn't make horrible sounds all the time, though. It is only noticeable at idle or when I am slowing down. When I am above 2 or 3K rpms, the engine roar must drown it out.?. Also when it makes the nasty noise, after I come to a stop and idle, it will clear itself up somewhat... usually.
I have yet to check into my timing/cam chain tensioners.
With the aide of my ear ONLY, the sound seems to originate under the rear valve cover on the RIGHT side.
I am also wondering if my oil passages are clogged. I am going to start my first treatment of AUTO RX tonight, just to make sure.
Something that has seemed to quiten things down a bit is: *puts on flame suit*:
adding Lucas Oil Stabalizer (about a half bottle).
I used to have a "dry" startup. This eliminated that.
Also, adding a quart of 20w50 helps too.(to 10w30) (if you didn't have Lucas, or don't want to try it)
I will email you a clip of my noise. Of course by the time I started recording, the scary noise dissipated, but you can still here more than whats desireable.
When its bad it sounds like a baseball card in a bicycle spoke REALLY loud. When its not as harsh, it sounds like a sewing machine, only really noticeable with the hood up.
If it makes you feel any better, I have been driving my sho for around 4 or 5 months like this (against the popular concensus of the shoforum) frown

<small>[ April 05, 2003, 11:00 AM: Message edited by: dkautumna ]</small>

 

[luigisho]

Check the shotimes.com website for the 800 number. You can order them over the phone. They may try to give you the runaround because they generally only sell tools through their distributors, but they make exceptions for Ford tools for some reason.

 

[Mr Anonymous]

DETSHO:
Oh and another thing is I NEED to go and see my aunt in the hospital today so I will have drive my car as much as I don't want to, I know for those young SHO owners out there who do not have the money to have 2 or 3 other cars like alot of guys on here have to make these type of decisions.....anyway I don't have everything i need now like the shim tools and the 60K video, but the rest i can get right away so i was gonna wait. If I am going to drive it today, should the first thing I do is an oil change to get the 20W-50 out of there and put some 5W-30 synethic like I was using before?

No taxis or public transportation where you live?

To try to track down the noise, you don't need to spend the money for the tappet tools, etc. First you need to open up the motor and determine the source of the problem. You're making it far more complicated than it needs to be...

 

[DETSHO]

This guy SHOoo must have pocket fulls of money, all of his advice requires me to spend more money. Must I stress to man, I am a college student with a part-time job and a little side gig (it's legal). I do have a few bills.