Is the moonroof standard equipment?

[Junkyard_Mad-Scientist]

Service intervals for these transmissions is recommended every 30k miles, I've hear some do it at 20k or 25k intervals but it's essential to keep up on that along with the PTU (Power transfer unit) and rear differential. My first run through the drivetrain is in 5k miles, it sounds daunting but there's a maintenance thread on here that's like a Bible for these cars and it covers it. So 2 trans fluid drain and fill is probably normal depending on how long they owned the car.

As for the column magically working, I also work IT so we both know things don't typically fix themselves unless it's tier 1 support "power cycle the unit" or tier 2 "wiggle the wires". If it happens again I'd check to make sure you don't have a frayed or crushed wire somewhere.

And for sync 3 I've heard nothing but good, I've been scanning the local u pull it trying to score the whole thing on the cheap, by their price list it looks like about $150-200 for everything.

I've had my car for 6 months now, worthy first buys recommendedby members of this forum: k/n drip in filter, oil catch can, noise maker delete plug (or pipe if you can spare the cash), And forscan

 

[kryptto]

looked on infortainment.com and given the price of those kits for sync 3 I may need to wait a bit. didn't think they would that expensive. want to get a vehicle health check at a Ford dealer first.

Priorities for sure

 

[Ta2dResqr]

Thanks so much for this. I was going to look on the forum since I figured others have done the upgrade.

NaviUpgrade has a good tutorial as well. I ordered all my parts from NaviUpgrade (for the custom conversion parts) or Car-Part (for the OEM stuff).

 

[Ta2dResqr]

looked on infortainment.com and given the price of those kits for sync 3 I may need to wait a bit. didn't think they would that expensive. want to get a vehicle health check at a Ford dealer first.

Horribly overpriced. I did mine for a few hundred ($250-300). If you use car-part, you can search by price. Check the pictures and find someone selling the APIM and Screen together. It may take a few phone calls to find a good price. I played dumb and said I needed the screen and the box on the back. If you start using all the actual names, they seem to catch on and it drives the cost up.

 

[Junkyard_Mad-Scientist]

Horribly overpriced. I did mine for a few hundred ($250-300). If you use car-part, you can search by price. Check the pictures and find someone selling the APIM and Screen together. It may take a few phone calls to find a good price. I played dumb and said I needed the screen and the box on the back. If you start using all the actual names, they seem to catch on and it drives the cost up.

I worked in a salvage yard for 10 years, I was in charge of the pricing at our yard and it didnt matter if it was a shop owner master tech or granny that cant find the hood latch, the price was the price. but, other yards have a predator/prey mentality and it works 2 ways. if you come off ignorant, they can jack the price up but they run the risk of running you off, if you come on informed, then they know that you know its value and will literally look at ebay while theyre on the phone with you and mark it 20% higher because of warranty and having a physical location makes people more comfortable. but if you play the middle you might get lucky

@Ta2dResqr definitely played it right, you keep the part names basic but by telling them you know there is an additional piece they dont know how much you know, sound somewhat confused, maybe even throw in a "my mechanic told me what i need" or "im selling the car and just need the radio to work again so i just want all the parts that connect to it to cover my bases" avoid telling them that youre doing an upgrade, as far as they know you have a 2018 taurus with sync 3 that needs replacement parts. haggle with em, if they list out 3 parts for 3 prices, tell em to throw in the cheaper one for free, 9/10 times they dont care its just parts and they work on commission at the bigger yards so a sale is a sale, target places with multiple available, makes the part less valuable since they have multiple and can make their money off someone else. and most people see "taurus" and think grannys worthless hand-me-down, use it all to your advantage.

If you use car-part theres a good chance its getting shipped so ask about return policies and return shipping, bend them to say theyll pay for return shipping if the part is defective or WRONG (most places have this policy anyway), the terminology "wrong" leaves you wiggle room so if they dont send everything and try to charge you again to ship the rest, you have the right to send it back and get your money back, thatll either get your money back to try again or scare them into sending the rest as part of the original agreement. sorry for the lengthy advice, I hope it helps, my 10 years at the salvage yard my primary job was parts locating so I spent most of my time calling other yards and making deals.

 

[kryptto]

l love this place. learn so much

 

[Ta2dResqr]

2018 APIM and Screen on Car-Part - $175
USB Hub on Amazon - $68
Hub Harness on Amazon - $10
Hub Adapter on Amazon - $15
GPS Antenna on Amazon - $13

$281 - How to upgrade for under $300 and have Android Auto/Apple CarPlay

I also recommend getting ForScan, a OBD connector, CyanLabs, and FMods.

 

[javon7065]

Service intervals for these transmissions is recommended every 30k miles, I've hear some do it at 20k or 25k intervals but it's essential to keep up on that along with the PTU (Power transfer unit) and rear differential. My first run through the drivetrain is in 5k miles, it sounds daunting but there's a maintenance thread on here that's like a Bible for these cars and it covers it. So 2 trans fluid drain and fill is probably normal depending on how long they owned the car.

As for the column magically working, I also work IT so we both know things don't typically fix themselves unless it's tier 1 support "power cycle the unit" or tier 2 "wiggle the wires". If it happens again I'd check to make sure you don't have a frayed or crushed wire somewhere.

And for sync 3 I've heard nothing but good, I've been scanning the local u pull it trying to score the whole thing on the cheap, by their price list it looks like about $150-200 for everything.

I've had my car for 6 months now, worthy first buys recommendedby members of this forum: k/n drip in filter, oil catch can, noise maker delete plug (or pipe if you can spare the cash), And forscan

The service record I found said that a trans fluid drain was done at 77,203 miles and then again at 79,305 miles, both stating that Valvoline Max ATF Full synthetic was used. If it wasn't hand written I would think it was a copy and paste error since it says the exact same thing. Who knows. If just one of them it right I am still good since I am at 89k now.

Correct regarding the steering wheel magic fix. They replaced something. I recall calling ISPs in the early days of internet connections and them stating that they did nothing to fix the problem once it was resolved. Possible but not likely. It doesn't happen as often but it is still amazing what a reboot will fix!

I think I will just go for a dashboard mount for my iPhone for now. Connecting my iPhone via USB cable is good enough for now. My 2024 Hyundai Kona has CarPlay and it's great but the SHO isn't my DD so not a big deal. I was disappointed though that the USB port in the SHO does not charge the iPhone.

Can I ask you to expand on the recommendations you list? What is a drip in filter? Oil catch can, noise maker delete plug and forscan?

Thanks!

 

[Texas Marauder]

Read it again. Drain and fill at 77203, 79305 and 80501. The theory that 3 drain and fills replaces almost all the fluid. IMO, if you stay on top of it, just drain and fill every 30k miles. That's what I do. You are good till 110k, then just drain and fill 5qts Mercon LV or equivalent.

You should be able to connect your phone thru bluetooth, no cable needed.

 

[Junkyard_Mad-Scientist]

The service record I found said that a trans fluid drain was done at 77,203 miles and then again at 79,305 miles, both stating that Valvoline Max ATF Full synthetic was used. If it wasn't hand written I would think it was a copy and paste error since it says the exact same thing. Who knows. If just one of them it right I am still good since I am at 89k now.

Correct regarding the steering wheel magic fix. They replaced something. I recall calling ISPs in the early days of internet connections and them stating that they did nothing to fix the problem once it was resolved. Possible but not likely. It doesn't happen as often but it is still amazing what a reboot will fix!

I think I will just go for a dashboard mount for my iPhone for now. Connecting my iPhone via USB cable is good enough for now. My 2024 Hyundai Kona has CarPlay and it's great but the SHO isn't my DD so not a big deal. I was disappointed though that the USB port in the SHO does not charge the iPhone.

Can I ask you to expand on the recommendations you list? What is a drip in filter? Oil catch can, noise maker delete plug and forscan?

Thanks!

Drip in filter was a typo, "drop in" or original equipment style filter is a filter that fits the stock airbox without any modification, looks like the standard paper filters dimensionally but uses the k&n filter media for better flow and its reusable.

Oil catch can is a reservoir of sorts that goes in line with the factory pcv system and in a nutshell keeps oil from being routed back into the intake by collecting it in the canister, it's healthier for our cars but I'm still kinda new on the details.

The noisemaker is a little plastic spout looking thing near the throttle body that comes off the charge pipe going into the throttle body. They're prone to boost leaks and can be eliminated with a $6 expansion plug or a replacement charge pipe that get a little pricey

Forscan is a OBD scanning software that allows for complete systems reading, all the modules, it's similar to what the dealerships have at a fraction of the cost and works with mobile or pc. Forscan.org I'm pretty sure and their site will tell you what you need and what all it does but it's very handy for tracing down issues that don't set off an engine light, for example I just found out my seat warmer overheats on high and shuts off, never would've known.

You can always search the forum too, i have a good base knowledge and extensive automotive history but theres stuff about these cars im still new to. If you type in any of the stuff I mentioned you'll have the collective knowledge of this forum at your fingertips, it's really incredible how much is really here.

 

[javon7065]

Read it again. Drain and fill at 77203, 79305 and 80501. The theory that 3 drain and fills replaces almost all the fluid. IMO, if you stay on top of it, just drain and fill every 30k miles. That's what I do. You are good till 110k, then just drain and fill 5qts Mercon LV or equivalent.

You should be able to connect your phone thru bluetooth, no cable needed.

OK, thanks for the advice. OK, thanks for the advice and yes I was able to connect through Bluetooth but the sound is a bit better through the USB cable and also you get some different options on the touchscreen that you don’t get with just a Bluetooth connection.

 

[javon7065]

Drip in filter was a typo, "drop in" or original equipment style filter is a filter that fits the stock airbox without any modification, looks like the standard paper filters dimensionally but uses the k&n filter media for better flow and its reusable.

Oil catch can is a reservoir of sorts that goes in line with the factory pcv system and in a nutshell keeps oil from being routed back into the intake by collecting it in the canister, it's healthier for our cars but I'm still kinda new on the details.

The noisemaker is a little plastic spout looking thing near the throttle body that comes off the charge pipe going into the throttle body. They're prone to boost leaks and can be eliminated with a $6 expansion plug or a replacement charge pipe that get a little pricey

Forscan is a OBD scanning software that allows for complete systems reading, all the modules, it's similar to what the dealerships have at a fraction of the cost and works with mobile or pc. Forscan.org I'm pretty sure and their site will tell you what you need and what all it does but it's very handy for tracing down issues that don't set off an engine light, for example I just found out my seat warmer overheats on high and shuts off, never would've known.

You can always search the forum too, i have a good base knowledge and extensive automotive history but theres stuff about these cars im still new to. If you type in any of the stuff I mentioned you'll have the collective knowledge of this forum at your fingertips, it's really incredible how much is really here.

Awesome thanks so much for the info. really appreciated. I have a lot of reading to do. But most immediate now is to fix the flat that the car has. When I drove to work yesterday I had the low tire pressure monitor come on. I couldn’t see anything visually and I was hoping that the dealer had just not checked the pressure. Nope. Took my other car to work today when I came home the right rear was flat. Watched the video about the fix a flat kit the PP cars have works and the video notes that the sealant is a one time use. I hope the tires is fixable.

 

[Junkyard_Mad-Scientist]

Awesome thanks so much for the info. really appreciated. I have a lot of reading to do. But most immediate now is to fix the flat that the car has. When I drove to work yesterday I had the low tire pressure monitor come on. I couldn’t see anything visually and I was hoping that the dealer had just not checked the pressure. Nope. Took my other car to work today when I came home the right rear was flat. Watched the video about the fix a flat kit the PP cars have works and the video notes that the sealant is a one time use. I hope the tires is fixable.

Quick tip on the fix a flat, I'd recommend use only in emergencies because it is a bear to clean up for the tire guy and might make the patch not possible. If you're able I'd drive the car to a tire shop or just take the wheel up.

 

[javon7065]

Quick tip on the fix a flat, I'd recommend use only in emergencies because it is a bear to clean up for the tire guy and might make the patch not possible. If you're able I'd drive the car to a tire shop or just take the wheel up.

That’s a good point. Thanks. But I’m wondering if the patching material was used already? the video I watched said that it was a one use shot and if it wasn’t used it only has a four-year shelf life. regardless I think I’ll just pump up the tire with the compressor. I hope that’ll get me over to a tire shop

 

[javon7065]

Quick tip on the fix a flat, I'd recommend use only in emergencies because it is a bear to clean up for the tire guy and might make the patch not possible. If you're able I'd drive the car to a tire shop or just take the wheel up.

I was able to just use the compressor to inflate and was able to get to the local repair shop. It was a big screw right in the middle of the tread, a great spot to fix with a plug. $20 and I was on my way.

 

[javon7065]

I was changing the cabin air filter this weekend and noticed this item, lightly circled in yellow, just dangling. Does anyone know what this is? I am taking the car to the dealer in about an hour to get a once over and just wanted to know if I should make them aware of this thing.

 

[kryptto]

ok hard to tell for me - there is a piston that keeps the door from slamming open, I know mine was broken by the dealership "guys" during the first years I had them change the oil and air with cabin filter, then I went to change it myself and well the piston was broken and my door just slammed open with no resistance. I bought and replaced the piston myself, however its fragile construction and easy to break if your not careful.

 

[javon7065]

ok hard to tell for me - there is a piston that keeps the door from slamming open, I know mine was broken by the dealership "guys" during the first years I had them change the oil and air with cabin filter, then I went to change it myself and well the piston was broken and my door just slammed open with no resistance. I bought and replaced the piston myself, however its fragile construction and easy to break if your not careful.

OK, thanks for the info. I will mention it to the mechanic at the dealer. I saw the one of the clips for the panel door for the cabin air filter was broke off already. not an easy one to get to but thankfully it stays on with just one clip.

 

[javon7065]

So I got a decent once over from the dealer. Had them change the oil, trans fluid and RDU fluid. All that came to $515. They wanted $500 more to do the PTU. I will address that at a different time somewhere else since they clearly were not going to do the suction pump method stating they need to remove the catalytic convertor to do the procedure. They also were attempting to sell me the Ford ESP which I was not aware I could still get. Wanted $4,525k for the Premium ESP for 4 years/40K miles. Found a recommendation for Geiger on this site and they are charging $2825 for the Premium ESP for 4 years/48K miles. That is quite a difference. Once I let them know that they would not budge on their price and said for them to do the inspection needed I would need to bring the car back and it would be $150. Understand that but I am going to go to a different dealer today to get the inspection done. I was not happy when I paid my bill to find out they are now passing along the 3% credit card fee to customers. Really? They didn't even tell me this when I paid. Noticed the difference when I saw the charge on my credit card.

 

[kryptto]

Look the ESP os probably worth it, as @Texas Marauder points out in another thread it's not a bad idea based on miles, that a water pump or PTU or transmission could cost way over that amount for servicing. Getting a competitive price sounds smart my thought it will be the same price.