Interchangeable 60k

[pascofan92]

Ok, I'm going to do a 60k on my 1994 atx. My buddy wants to show me how to do it but he did his 60k on his mtx.Is the process the same on both cars and is there anything else i should know.I know my car needs a tune-up,oil well and manifold seals, crank and cam seals, timing belt, accessory belt, and anything else?Thank you for your imput.-alaric
1994 Red ATX 3.2
*New Car*1992 Midnight Blue MTX 3.0 w/ mods

 

[Mr95Gl]

They are the same with minor differences. On the Front 60K, your only removing ONE belt, as opposed to 2 with the MTX. No engine roll dampeners to remove either. The biggest difference is the removal of the Timing Belt, where you'll have to use a C-Clamp to compress the hydraulic tensioner, and stick an allen wrench into the tensioner shaft to remove the belt.

I believe the only difference on the Upper 60K is that you'll have to disconnect the EGR valve located on the rear of the intake on the drivers side.

 

[CerberuS]

Or cut the belt (if your changing it)

 

[sdpatt]

The serpentine belt tensioner on the ATX must come off to remove the timing cover and the power steering pulley must come off to remove the tensioner. Did I remember that right? It's been a while, since I have done an ATX, so somebody else chime in here.

 

[Bizzy]

The serpentine belt tensioner on the ATX must come off to remove the timing cover and the power steering pulley must come off to remove the tensioner. Did I remember that right? It's been a while, since I have done an ATX, so somebody else chime in here.

You remembered correctly.

 

[djcannon]

The serpentine belt tensioner on the ATX must come off to remove the timing cover and the power steering pulley must come off to remove the tensioner.

The serpentine belt tensioner does have to come off in order to access the timing belt. It'll be one of the first few things that you remove.

After you loosen the bolt that holds the tensioner, pull the tensioner off as straight as possible! Don't wiggle it up and down too much, if at all. If you don't remove it straight towards you, you could break the dowel pin.

Click below...it provides step by step and good photos. This has both MTX and ATX steps in here, so pay close attention to each step and which one it's for:

http://www.shophoenixproject.com/lower60k/lower60k.htm

 

[pascofan92]

thanks guys!-Alaric

 

[zacritz929]

I just took the bolt off that holds the tensioner. Is there any otherbolts that hold the tensioner? I dont want to force it off if theres another hidden bolt or anything.

 

[Electricat]

It is also more difficult to remove the crank damper bolt from the ATX, since you can't mechanically stop the engine from turning over like on the MTX. You have to keep the damper from rotating, by using a large C-clamp or a strap wrench.

If the guy has already done one on an MTX, he should have no problem with the ATX....the differences are pretty much minor external stuff, with obvious solutions.

 

[djcannon]

I just took the bolt off that holds the tensioner. Is there any otherbolts that hold the tensioner? I dont want to force it off if theres another hidden bolt or anything.

There are no other bolts, but there is a dowel that is probably keeping it from coming off nicely. That's why I mentioned earlier not to "tap" it to free it, but instead pull it out straight. You might try wiggling is clockwise and counterclockwise a bit as you pull out, but don't hit the tensioner in an effort to free it, or you will break the dowel.