intake manifold question

[venomizd93]

My first question is what is the black(size of 1/2 coke can)canister that two vaccuum lines run to on the back of the intake manifold. An is there only one way the vaccuum lines should be hooked up to it??? If so which way.

Second is what are the symptoms ofa bad DIS module???? I think mine might be going bad.....at sporadic time the car seems to be missing on acceleration(no pwer at all) and then kicks in normaly. New fuel pump(190lph) as of yesterday and the TPS seems to be working fine.
Got all 111 codes for KOEO and I can't seem to figure oout what the heel the KOER codes are telling me....they came out as 11652852XX2 or something like that and it repeated itself.
But none of those are in the chart headbang

 

[LOUDSHO92]

When my DIS went bad it was giving me codes for other things like a bad coil. My car would almost die on me every now and then but it would come back. Then it started running terribly. If you can find a DIS in a junk yard and swap it, this would tell you if its bad.

 

[reags8]

Use this link for the vacuum line routing :
http://www.shoforum.com/cgi-bin/ultimatebb.cgi?ubb=get_topic&f=17&t=001914#000002
The black canister is the vacuum accumulator tank.

 

[sdpatt]

Thanks reags8. The black plastic canister on the center of the rear intake plenum is a vacuum accumulator: a storage tank to maintain a vacuum so that the secondary butterfly actuators can operate for a short time without manifold vacuum.

The code string that you posted tells me that you could benefit from visiting the first link at the bottom of my signature block. this site gives a great explanation on how to perform the tests and what the code outputs will look like. The number string, "11652852XX2" might translate to the following:

116 (O,R) Engine Coolant (ECT) sensor out of range [sdpatt: Was the engine cold?]

528 (M) System shows voltage at pin 10 (is A/C on ?) or pin 30 (PNP, CPP switch) [sdpatt: Turn off the A/C]

The remaining numbers are not useable since they are not complete 3-digit numbers. Study the test procedure and the code output format and give it another try. Those codes may be trying very hard to help you locate the source of your problem. However, if there are no codes generated that indicate an engine control system problem that could cause a spark event failure, the cause is most likely either spark plugs or the plug wires.

 

[venomizd93]

I'm beginning to lean towards the DIS...ran it this afternoon and no probs.....is the DIS used on any other product of fords besides the SHO...not too many in the yards around here.....we some poor folk here in buffalo... thumb

 

[sdpatt]

You can't fix a problem by throwing money at it. Guessing costs money and doesn't guarantee success. You have to first determine what is wrong. Check those codes again and maybe the answer will be provided.

 

[venomizd93]

Yeah that's not my way of solving problems....by throwing mooney at it.....but if I do need any of these expensive parts it would be nice to get a good used one...thus my question about use on other vehicles. I will try the code read again....thanks

here is what I got the first time
116538536521<- separator code for repeat?11653853652
the codes repeat and the car was up to temp

<small>[ September 30, 2003, 05:40 PM: Message edited by: venomizd93 ]</small>

 

[venomizd93]

here's the codes it read on KOER tests 538,536,521 times 2

Those are: no "goose" test detected
BOO switch sharted but my brake lights work
And wheel not turned or PSP problem.....I don't notice a problem, but it doesn't seem like any of that has to do with my problem. Intemittently the car will not come down to idle or I have to feather the cluth around 2k to get the car moving from a stop or it will stall. It's intermittently though and if it does stall out it vvery hard to start with a brand new started and fuel pump.(last month) soooo could it be the CCRM, deoesn't that have a fuel relay in it???? headbang

 

[rangerj]

venomizd93,

Do you have, or have access to, a Digital Multi- Meter (DMM) (NOT AN ANOLOG METER ie SWING NEEDLE), or an Light Emiting Diode (LED) (NOT AN INCANDESCENT LIGHT) test light?

If you do, do a search for one of the several prior posts for the proceedures for testing everything that flows through the DIS, and therefor the DIS.

Frequently the connections at the DIS get corroded or become loose. Disconnect and then reconnect your DIS connections. Then remove the four little bolts that hold the DIS to the crossover tube (one at a time).

Clean the threads of the bolts and coat them with anti-sieze compound or "Copper-Shield" to ensure good "ground" contact. Do the same for the 12mm bolts that hold the crossover tube in place.

Check and clean all of your grounds, including the battery, the one in the fender well next to the battery, the one in the firewall on the passenger side, and the main ground on the engine.

Use anti-sieze compound, or Copper-Shield, on the ground connections. Remember a LITTLE anti-sieze compound goes a LONG way.

If you cannot find the test proceedures for the DIS get back to us. Like Scott said, "throwing money at the problem is not the way to solve it". rangerj

 

[92greensho]

a supercoupe is the only car with the same DIS module as a sho, but those are even more rare.

 

[venomizd93]

thanks guys......will try. On the other hand if my "02" blend door is "broken" would that cause me not to get any cold air from the A/C in the car. The A/C system shows correct low side pressure and the switch cycles properly. Never been serviced....in 8 years, does 134a just loose its ability to "cool" over time???

 

[SHOPWR]

R-134a does not lose its ability to cool. do you have cool air on any levels such as vent/floor or defrost? the only thing i can think of that you could do is take out your evaporator case and check the blend air doors to see if properly functionable. and your positive your high side and low side is accurate? high side should be around 100 plus ambient temp.and low side around 35 i think. if the system had not been properly re-charged last time that would cause it not to cool. and your positive your ac clutch kicking on and off when it should? it should not be kicking on and off every 2 seconds if so your possibly low on refrigerant.

 

[SHOPWR]

also consider your blower motor.

 

[projectSHO89]

The "O2" EATC code inticates that the EATC is unable to control or sense the position of the blend door actuator. That means that, depending on the failure mode, the door will either be in the last commanded position or will likely be in the full HOT position. Only cure is to pull the dash back and replace the module.

Keep practicing on reading the codes. You'll get the timing down soon.

Steve

 

[venomizd93]

When one's sway bar links go, what does it sound like.....I have a rattle underneath that is pretty bad when I hit bumps....not ball joints, or tie rods or heat shields....all that is new.

 

[venomizd93]

Now I'm almost sure its the IAB!!! The car runs like a champ and is cool(temp. wise) when the idle doesn't act up.....but when I put it in neutral at a light, when it decides to act up, it idles around 1600 to 1900 and you really have to gun an feather the clutch to keep it from stalling. When all of this happens the car starts running crappy and the temp goes through the roof. Do you think it's the IAB motor or the little valve thing inside the casing. I read on the sho times website that a 96 and up IAB is the way to go does anyone know what the part number is and how much it is???? headbang

<small>[ October 03, 2003, 08:56 AM: Message edited by: venomizd93 ]</small>

 

[bflosho]

When a sawy bar link is bad it sounds like a loose heat sheild, and it just barely vibrates the floorboard near your pedals-that is if it's on the drivers side like mine was. You also will experience some pretty slushy turns.I had mine replaced at mufflerman on delaware. I think it was around $200 or so for both front links and the rear bushings they had completely separated from the sway bar...talk about slushy steering. You could save about a hundred bucks by doing it youself but mine were frozen on probably from the salt they use around here and I did'nt have a cut-off torch and you can't get a grinder in to get the bottom nut off.